This is the first time I have seen a bug fixed quickly after it was reported everywhere 
(Item 11.)
I will will give a test if everything works as it should xD - or whether the H2D will destroy itself again 
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Why is the update still not available?
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I did not check the purge collision but the extra moves and line purges at layers 4. 10 and 20 are now gone which is good (item 10)
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Staggered release. Be patient.
My H2D is still on firmware version 01.01.01.00, even though I’ve been part of the beta program for weeks. All I can do is keep up with the latest H2D firmware news. 
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Updated earlier today then a full system restore and recalibration of everything.
On the calibration for the live camera just as it ended the extruder shot over to the purge area and made quite a loud clunk, noisier than the usual clunk.
I did the calibration again and it never happened on the second try (when I was standing there videoing it lol)
Everything else all good so far, Printed the 2 colour panda from internal files and now printing a ASA print. spoiler it look’s beautiful so far
I am in the same boat, I have had my printer 3 weeks and I entered Beta the very day I got my printer. I haven’t gotten an updates.
I’m not sure whether the rollout is based on serial number blocks or something else, so I’m just sitting back, having some popcorn
I understand why they’re doing this I just hope we get an official release soon. 
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First Issue I’ve found:
Nozzle clumping with PETG HF filament before start of print.
I just did a multi-color print with two different brands of PETG HF. The main color was on the right nozzle with Bambu Lab PETG HF Black (245c) and Generic PETG HS(220c) on the left. I actually just cleaned both nozzles while heated up before the start of the print as I noticed they both had a lot of build up on them and let them cool down while completely clean. After starting the print I noticed both nozzles heated up to full temperature for their profile before starting and during the nozzle offset calibration. This caused the nozzles to ooze before the tip gets to the sensor/cleaning pad. The printer then rubs the nozzle in circles and forces the filament that already started to ooze up the tip and all over the nozzle before the print even started. I’m not sure if this is new for this beta firmware but it doesn’t seem necessary for the nozzles to be at full temperature during the calibration. Maybe close, but not at full temp. I also notice with the H2D my nozzles are getting little balls of PETG HF in random spots on the print that I don’t get using the exact same Bambu Lab PETG HF that is fully dry with my A1M. This issue with the balling of filament is unique to my H2D and not the filament.
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FYI in the new firmware you are now able to start a drying cycle in an AMS that is not currently in use even when a print is in progress. So happy this works now.
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I was really hoping this would be the case! Thanks
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And it works with both the AMS 2 pro and HT.
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You’re marked as extra most valuable printer owner, or eMVP :), so they have to keep your printer safe
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No it has to be fully heated, otherwise the nozzle length would be quite different. However the oozing is annoying I agree.
The balls of filament is caused by the nozzle sliding over extruded filaments. I’m not sure of why it’s happening on H2D, but I would blame it on Bambu for not coating their nozzles. I get exactly the same blobs even on my X1C, but then I solved it with the Phaetus Conch Plus hotends as they come with anti-sticking coating. It was a beautiful hotend and sadly we have to wait until it arrives on H2D
I have the same issues with PETG,
The nozzle calibration and general multi color prints are very messy and have to baby sat to ensure the first few layers aren’t contaminated by rogue blobs.
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This is a hardware issue that bambu needs to address. I dont know how you can tune filaments to work the same for bridging and overhangs on the left and right nozzle with this type of air flow difference.
Let me know where to post this properly. I know someone else posted a video but it was with only one nozzle active. This one switches between the two.
Along the x axis it might not matter much, the y axis on a long part im sure it will.
For this I would leave bambu the benefit of the doubt, or more precisely the benefit of having engineered it the way it should. I’d be very surprised that such an obvious difference is not on purpose.
I’m not sure the video has much value, he uses a wide piece of paper placed far from the tip when in reality, the airflow is meant as cooling the filament being laid down (a lot narrower width) and at the tip of the nozzle (a lot closer height). If we take the right nozzle, right airflow is directed at the tip of the right nozzle, the airflow from the left nozzle is almost ununobstruted by the left nozzle (recessed higher) and this airflow is far from the right nozzle. If we take the left nozzle, the left airflow is fully directed at the tip and the right nozzle airflow is obstructed by the right nozzle.
High left airflow far from right nozzle and normal airflow to the right is certainly (my guess) about the same as high airflow to the left and very low to no airflow from the right nozzle to the left when viewed from the tip of each nozzle.
What could then be considered as a design flaw at face value may actually just be a feature to maintain close to same airflow at the tip of each nozzle.
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sounds like flow ratio , which without per object settings like in orca is not as easy to calibrate. my sunlu hs petg matte has a slow ratio of 0.87 , calibrated unsing a dev/lan version of BS in lan/dev mode
Try it for your self. Massive air difference from left to right. You can feel it , the paper is just an easy way to see it via a video.
I know it’s different, read my attempt at an explanation why I think it is different
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