So you guys are going to make me order one of those ugly purple plates because I can’t keep waiting for the Supertac, Darkmoon, Frostbite lol there’s a whole group of people here ordering this thing.
The adheasion looks amazing. It’s a bummer that it’s not matte smooth and .5mm seems really thin. I enjoyed watching the guy hammer the plate and put dents in it. That was my favorite part.
Reporting back with FYSETC CryoNix plate, it’s GREAT.
Don’t take it as a cool plate. Take it as a great matte plate that works with all filaments similar to smooth pei.
While you indeed can reduce the heatbed temperature with it, I don’t have enough time to thoroughly test its limit, but from the experience I had with Glacier plates I think this CryoNix is slightly better, and the final surface looks really good.
Also I printed the first layer test with Ludicrous mode and it turned out to be fine, so at least 160-180mm/s of first layer print speed is doable. This is HUGE for large parts.
Only downside: yes it needs to be clipped to your bed if you’re printing large parts that tend to warp a lot.
Well you guys convinced me to get the KDEAVI build plate as well (tossed in one for my A1 as well) even after I already received the FYSETC plate One can never have enough build plates, right?
If it’s like the other KDEAVI plates I have for my x1-c’s, it’s better than the supertack in terms of adhesion with PETG and PET. Pla has similar adhesion.
I never had any luck with the supertack to begin with, so that kind of soured my taste for them. PETG always warped up and even with pla I couldn’t get fine details like lettering on the first layer. The KDEAVI plates never failed me like the supertack did.
Wow, that’s a very good sales pitch. But I’m surprised super tack failed you. For me it was the contrary, it jsut annoyed the ■■■■ of out me given how hard it was to remove things (had to design a new scraper to address it)
Yea maybe I just got a bad one, idk. I’ve had one successful print on it out of the 10 or so times I tried using it. I would literally give it away if someone asked for it lol.
I got a got a great Supertac the first time it came out. Then I ordered another and it didn’t work as well at all. Then I talked to a guy on Reddit who heats his bed to 70 and 80 for pla on the textured pei plate and he was like “crank the temp to 60-70 and see what happens” and boom like magic the plate has never ever given me a single failure since. Not for poles as tiny as 6mm and big flat prints never warp.
Now instead of editing all my filament settings to 60 with the Supertac I just use the textured pei build plate setting with the Supertac and the adheasion is insane just like my first one.
I did a short print yesterday and adhesion was perfect, even at 30°C and with those fine and delicate lines. Was still hard to remove so had to be careful to not damage the print. Of course I don’t know yet how long this good adhesion will last, but with a regular clean I guess it’ll last a long time.
Thats exactly how I use mine with textured PEI settings. It helps to heat it and get a bit more squish. I do sometimes manually turn it down to 35-40c if its a very long print with a big surface area, but for difficult to print items with small contact area heating it is pretty much mandatory.
If I printed more with pla I might try that. But most of what I do is PETG and the bed temp is already at 70°c with the supertack. I’ll keep that in mind for the next time I use pla and decide to give the ST another try.
Ohhh. I’ve been using my fysetc a lot lately too. It’s definitely a nice plate. Works really good with nylon and liquid glue. I haven’t tried PETG without glue yet as I’m too lazy to wash it off lol.