It would be nice if there was an option to limit the amount of power used to heat the bed for those of us using UPS or those on a 15A circuit to give more headroom. I know its possible (maybe not accurate power measurement/limit, but at least able to reduce it). My H2D’s draw ~1650W heating the bed when the setpoint is ≥5°, but when the setpoint is only ≤4° the current draw is only around 400-500W. Once bed is at temperature the draw is only around 200W while printing. So just setting a limit on the PWM signal for the bed heater can solve this problem.
3 Likes
Why’d this get moved to H2D forum? It was literally a feature request.
1 Like
I’ll second this notion.
What I’ve seen is that when you start a print using a high temp filament, and it heats the chamber and bed at the same time, the power draw is actually less than when it just heats the bed alone. Not by much, but if my memory serves me correct it’s about 100-150w lower.
So the ability to turn the bed wattage draw down is definitely there, just not available to us.
Hopefully Bambu hears us and gives us a toggle in the menu’s that’ll let us select what kind of power draw we want. A low, medium, and high toggle would be nice.
If they did this, I would order another h2d
1 Like
And if they ever force this, I swear—I’ll sell my H2D 
I love having a build plate that heats up fast. Right now, I’m running one CNC, one H2D, and one X1 Carbon—plus 3 AMS 2 PROs, 2 AMS, and 4 AMS HT units—all on the same fuse, and guess what? Not a single hiccup.
I get that some users might run into trouble, but honestly, it sounds more like an issue with their local power grid than with the machines themselves.
That said, as long as things keep working like they do out of the box, and they stick to fixing things via software—I’m perfectly happy.
Around this time of year, my setup is mostly solar-powered on sunny days. I was half-expecting chaos… but nope—it just works. 
1 Like
Lol, you might want to check that your breaker is capable of tripping. Or that your Fuse is properly sized if you actually have an old fuse box.
1 Like
If you’re referring to my setup, it’s inspected monthly—like clockwork. And if anything’s off, it will absolutely shut everything down. My residual-current device is so sensitive it borders on comedy 
The house is protected by a 16A breaker, and the hobby room is on its own dedicated circuit. Technically, everything runs fine—even simultaneously. But that’s under normal load.
Spike loads aren’t included in that equation. If both the X1 Carbon and the H2D decide to heat up at the exact same moment, I’d probably trip either the breaker or the RCD—or both. Thankfully, I’m not running a print farm, so it hasn’t been a problem so far.
So yes—my setup is safe, isolated, and regularly checked. All machines can run at the same time without issue, as long as they behave nicely.
If they add a setting youre going to sell? Weird flex.
It pulls 1600-1800 watts. Its not a grid issue. Also, some people have more than 1 printer.
This type if thinking is getting annoying. If it doesnt affect someone, Im not sure why that someone even chimes in.
Agreed. I am one of those people who can’t run their H2D on a 900 watt UPS but it works just find if I don’t hear the bed. I think that the fast bed heating is great, i would not want them to disable it, but a vernier or low-high switch (if that is all that can be implemented) would be very responsive. You put yours on high, i put mine on low.
1 Like
I’m not saying other users don’t experience issues—I’m simply describing how my setup works.
In many older houses, the fuse layout can be a bit odd, with different rooms sharing the same fuse in unpredictable ways. In my case, the hobby room is on its own dedicated circuit, so the only devices that can affect it are the ones physically located in that room.
Currently, that includes:
- X1 Carbon
- H2D with 40W laser
- Carvera Air with a 5W laser
- A dryer that’s always running in humidity mode
- A high-end laptop
- 3 AMS2 PRO units (status varies)
- 4 AMS HT units (also with varying activity)
So far, I haven’t blown a single fuse. It might be luck—or just good planning—but it’s been working reliably for me.
And you didn’t catch my comment about selling the H2D as a joke? 
But seriously—why make a permanent change just to accommodate a handful of users? A more elegant solution would be to introduce a setting that allows users to define a target time within which the heatbed and chamber should reach their temperatures. That way, the printer can manage energy draw more intelligently, avoiding unnecessary spikes.
Also, the idea that the H2D would sustain 1800 watts continuously, even with the bed at 110 °C and the chamber at 65 °C, sounds highly unlikely. In reality, most components pulse in cycles once target temps are reached, meaning the sustained load is much lower than the peak.
Doesnt matter if its sustained or not. The breaker pops from the spike. My house is 4 years old and isnt cheap.
This setting request is for people that are popping breakers. Anybody with more than one printer heating up at the same time. 1500 watts(80% rule) is the max I would say was safe to pull from a single outlet anyway.
1,800 is the very max of an outlet and the h2d hits it. Kinda dumb and unsafe imo. Just to save a few minutes. Before the h2d, i never once saw someone complain about bed heat time of the x1c. They should have spent the extra resources figuring out how to properly use both nozzles. Right now we have 1.5 nozzles lol.
We arent worried about power draw after its up to temp. Thats never been something anybody said.
Most of the time, my two nozzles function as expected. However, on rare occasions, the left nozzle goes out of sync and produces defective prints — especially when using the filament Support for PA/PET.
You’re calculating based on a 120V outlet, correct? I’m using a 230V outlet, and with a 16A fuse, the theoretical maximum output per fuse is 3.68 kW.
The heating time on the X-series is noticeably slow — in my opinion, too slow.
One potential improvement would be to synchronize chamber heating with build plate heating, since the plate reaches its target temperature significantly faster than the chamber.
As long as slow heating isn’t forced on my unit, I’m fine with it. However, if a forced limitation is introduced, that’s not acceptable. A setting defaulting to “High” is perfectly fine — making “Low and Slow” the default or permanent behavior is not.
1 Like
Do you happen to know the max rated watts of the receptacle and wiring?
But yeah, Im in the U.S.
“North America, which includes the United States, consistently holds a large share of the global 3D printing market.
Specifically, in 2023, North America accounted for a 40% revenue share of the global 3D printing market”
Apparently, bambu sells 1300 printers per day to americans. Im willing to bet its over half of all bambu sales
In this case, low and slow would be normal. 2 minute heat up is not normal.
Ratrig purposely set the wattage to 1200 on their 500mm printer, so they could sell to americans without risk of fire. I challenge you to find another hobby printer forum where discussions of breakers popping is coming up. Its just a matter of time before someone finds out they have a bad breaker thats stuck and out comes the magic smoke show
1 Like
Would be quite a pathetic power grid to trip for a merely 1.6kw device.
We understand the new cool thing is to hate on murica. Maybe one day you guys will catch up and be more important in the global market. until then…
H2D, the printer that requires its own 20amp breaker for 325mm
2 Likes
You guys are important enough to let metric system to rule in the 3dp world 
But back to the topic, no h2d should not trigger any issue on built to standard American homes.
Yet youve seen how many people mention breakers or ups lately? In america, we use this thing called the 80% rule and the outlets max at 1800 watts. the printer can pull 1800 all by itself. Simple math. I guess when you guys get a 2nd h2d, youll think different.
We use metric and standard
1 Like
Yes, the wiring in my walls can handle more than 16 A at 230 V, so I feel quite confident everything is well within safety limits—especially since all electrical installations were done by a licensed electrician.
In Sweden—and in most of Europe—the standard wall outlet is rated for 230 V at 16 A, which allows for up to 3680 watts of continuous power. That’s more than double the capacity of a typical 120 V / 15 A outlet in North America (usually limited to 1440–1800 W).
While the U.S. certainly accounts for a major part of the global 3D printing market, and likely a large share of Bambu Lab’s daily printer sales, it’s important to remember that 70–75% of the world runs on 220–240 V systems.
It’s completely understandable to set optional limitations for machines operating on 120 V power—especially to avoid breaker trips or overheating—but forcing those same restrictions globally, including on users with much higher electrical headroom, really doesn’t make sense.
Ideally, firmware and power profiles should be voltage-aware, so users in 230 V regions can make full use of the hardware’s capabilities without compromising safety for those on 120 V.
1 Like
Evry printer ive owned before bambu, allowed for max wattage adjustment on all heated elements(by percentage. .5 = 50% max draw) . Bambu just simplified everything for noobs, but like you not needing slow heating, i dont need guard rail.
I bet a setting gets added eventually.
1 Like
When did anyone say to restrict anything? Show me the post? You are literally arguing with yourself on this one.
People are asking for a feature request not a change in printer function. They are asking for an option potentially on the send to printer page of selecting a potential heat up time. Maybe a normal and quick, I don’t think that is restricting.
2 Likes