I have found out that the plastic cover (white.grayish, under the bed, plastic) is dropped? on one side, like has huge play…
Another find, while i was checking the nozzled, i realised the right one (the one that actually only printed for less than 4 hours in total , cause till now i was using it only for second material/color and that was minimal .
I found out a substance like glass that was like “dripping” right over the point where the sock closes.
This nozzle so far has printed pink and gray only, nothing black , but still that wasnt like charred filament residue, it was literally like a glass.
Didnt take photo, my ass was like, no you go , now ! so, its off…
Moving on with the tramming.
ΟΚ YIKES!
If theres something apart from the lockdown ecosystem that I hate about Bambu, its now the H2D tramming procedure.
PSA, if you also find it tiresome to try your luck with the manual bed leveling for H2D read this
Run the Gcode once, and when it finishes, if you have doubts or you know for sure you didnt level correctly, Bambu says re-tighten the screws and do everything from start.
DONT! . Infact dont touch anything and be warned to be VERY carefull with the next steps.
YOU WILL NOT HOME THE AXIS’ SO WATCH EVERY MOVEMENT AND ONLY MOVE BY 1mm TO BE SURE
-Reinstall the PEI printbed, and
-Using the onscreen XYZ controls, move the head to center and bed so it has approximately somewhere where it ALMOST touches the bed. If you feel uncomfortable stop at about 2mm .
-Use one of the blocks from flow rate calibration as feeler, and keep in mind the tension from nozzle to feeler. You can bring the head back for a reminder anytime, but you need to remember so that when you
-Move the head to the four corners and “feel” the height.
-Adjust the bolts accordingly so that you get the same feeling as you get in the center.
Keep in mind, if you need to make big adjustments on one corner, chances are that the rest are also kinda-to-way off, so recheck all until you need to make no more adjustments (and thats another reason i hate the gcode, 3 cyrcles CAN or CANNOT be enough, depends)
thats it , done. continue and test.
Just run de process a second or third time. What’s the problem?
Everything it would seem. 
the problem is that if you want to run the process again you cant continue where you left , because it will home the axis again and the reference point now will be higher, so you will again need to “loose” the bolts equally much, at least thats what it did in my case, so every time I ran the Gcode the plate needed to be leveled higher and higher , so to combat that, I just turned to traditional , reliable, and more than anything FAST way. Sorry but this 30 seconds per probe is either too short or too long and just the fact that i have to wait it to complete a whole circle just to check one corner and … you get the picture… innefficient, too much time lost
put it simply, itwould be much more efficient the traditional paper way . Again the pla feeler suggestion i feel like it has way too many variables that can go wrong (and also I cant really explain it, but for me , feeling with a much thinner feeler is better than this slab of pla that bambu suggests to print and feel, like, i feel this is way way too uncontrolled for a process like this)
If you can edit the G-code, just add a couple of extra loops. Maybe it’s nothing more than changing a variable or copying a set of lines.
If you can’t edit the G-code, you can put in a request at the support desk, so future users can benefit from it also.
Εditing the gcode would be again slower for me, and honestly I dont think another or a couple more loops would reaaaally help, best would be to introduce a system like the klipper screws_tilt_calculate, with either an interface where you can choose to probe the points individually and in any order, or just a simple Next Point/Previous Point button. Much faster, much easier, you dont have to wait or race against the timer , you can go back immediatly and check the previous or any point.