i had a problem because i do the whole calibration whitout the ams and the top glass, then i put them and didn’t redo the calibration, and it fact this weight à top was a culprit!
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Yes it’s that one I used pour régler les courroi
Yes already did that one, it did not help. Also its on the same firmware.
Did a test with bambu filament - stock bambu settings - still z banding …
@SupportAssistant could you give a statement?
The best way to evaluate this is to attach some pictures from multiple sides, and multiple light sources.
Unfortunately, the pictures shared don’t seem to show Z banding, but maybe some shadows generated by the high angle light, and the color of the filament.
As you can see in the Photo before ( the yellow block ) - the Prints definitiv have some Problems in the Quality.
You cant deny it as some shadows … What should we do ? The machine is new
Please open a ticket, and share more information with our team. That way, help can be provided more efficiently.
But as mentioned, please include the required pictures, and the .3mf file. Our colleagues will also ask for them.
Had the same thing happen, one loose screw.
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maybe you could give us more informations ? which screw. etc?
Yes which screw? belts? nozzle?
“default bed tensioning might be loose, I would suggest everyone to do a bed tramming and in the process it would also make the springs supporting the bed better tensioned.”
Could you share how to do this? I Couldn’t find it on the Bambu wiki
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how we need to know which screw 
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Not with mine at least, they where tight
Not sure if this helps but I just found that one of the back feet on my printer had come off and was under the machine. I think from trying to slide it around on my bench to get to the back the rubber gripped the bench top and pulled it off the washer/screw that mounts it to the bottom of the machine. It actually comes off and goes on easy due to how flexible it is.
I noticed it while sitting in my office chair. I saw the machine was not level in the front with my benchtop as one side had a larger gap. It was the back left foot. I had to unscrew the mounting hardware, reinstall the rubber foot onto the hardware and re-install it to the machine. Not sure what affect this has but I’m guessing having 3 antivibration feet and one solid screw head on my work bench is not good for z-banding. Not sure when it happened but it could have happened when I first put the machine on the bench and slid it around to install/connect various items.
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Funny - i thought the rubber feets are screwed on the printer ( in the wiki it is )…
There is a screw with a large washer/head that goes in through the bottom of the feet and screw into the bottom of the machine. The soft rubber on the feet can slip over the screw/washer head and come off. They grip my bench top really good and trying to slide it around with the weight of the machine put enough force to allow it to rip it off the machine. The foot that came off had no damage at all. My fault as I was just pushing/sliding it but wanted to let everyone know its possible for them to come off like this.
The replacement kit for the printer feet includes the following:
- Anti-vibration feet * 4
- M3x3.2x10x0.5 washers * 4
- M3x21.5x6 screws * 4
This is also an issue on some of the A1 series and we found that it is the mounting plate that the quick release for the hot end is attached to. Every time that this is been an issue and not filament. People have gone in pulled that apart tightened the screws on the A1 series as well as the H2D it has fixed it.
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I’m experiencing the same thing. I’m convinced that it is at least in part due to the rocking. If I stand and slightly stabilize the printer for a few minutes it prints perfect while I’m holding it, then the banding appears again when I let it go.
Here’s the exhaust mod, PLA-CF comes out baby smooth on the X1C, not so much here….
Experienced the same. Using default profiles and BL filament. This shouldn’t be an issue, even with a new machine. Welcome to the Beta test…
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