Ditto, seeing same thing here… i just slowed this print down by 50% and will see in the morning what it looks like. My x1c is always flawless, this H2D leaves MUCH to be desired…
How stable is the table that your guys/gals printer sitting on? I was getting what you guys are but to s MUCH lesser extend, so I printed some blocks, and put 3M VHB on both sides of them and then pressed them against the wall. This locks the table to the wall(RIP the paint when I wanna move that table). My prints have been extremely smooth since(except for stringing I can’t seem to get rid of on smaller parts, but that’s a different discussion).
On my setup there was somethings to be desired, so this morning I did the following things:
- Put the printer on the floor (can’t be more stable than that)
- did the belt tention process as described in the wiki,
- slightly added some tention to the 4 bolts underneath the build plate. They where not lose but close to it.
- greased the Z spindels (with the OG Bambu grease)
- Put the AMS next to the machine
- after all this did a full recalibration
This was te result of yesterday before the changes described above, I’ll do a similar print right now and will see how that goes, im hoping for a improvement otherwise im out of ideas and suggestions on here.
Keep you posted
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Is your filament calibrated? Try turning the accelerations down by 50%.
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It’s Bambu PETG-HF white, so should need no tuning from the user
That’s not always true. I’ve had multiple rolls of different color Bambu PETG-HF that needed tuning. Some of them needed a much higher flow rate than the default setting.
Some are good with defaults, and some aren’t. You won’t know until you try and tune them.
I already tried 3 different vendors, all 3 dried, different colors, and 1 of them was bambu lab pla.
The z banding exists with every print, its not a filament problem.
The first two prints on my h2d were perfect without banding, and those were tall prints. Both of them were with the exact same roll that now produces z banding.
The only things that changed since i did those two prints were a firmware update and 2 bambu studio profile updates.
There are no loose screws in the toolhead nor the heatbed, i checked them today.
It has to be a software problem.
Btw, since the latest bambu studio update i get top surface under extrusion too, but only with the bambu pla. Other vendors print fine.
I guess they still have a lot of tuning to do haha,
I’ve been following this thread and really wish we could get someone else from bambu support to give us some additional comments on this.
So based on your experience, it looks like it’s a filament profile and/or firmware thing.
You can easily eliminate the filament profile possibility by calibrating the filament. Don’t rule it out until you actually do it. You said you’re getting under extrusion on top surfaces, that right there points out that you need to tune the filament.
Are you on beta firmware? Downgrade back to the official release if so and see if it goes back to normal.
Do both of those things and, according to what you’ve said, the problem should go away.
I already calibrated the non Bambu PLAs, still z banding like hell, but at least no under extrusion.
The under extrusion just happening with the Bambu PLA (extra to the z banding).
I was on the non beta firmware, I just installed the beta right now hoping the problem will be fixed…
Come over to the “H2D - is this the beta test” thread. We’re working on getting another persons banding solved. So far it seems like it’s all print profile and filament profile settings.
Im defiantly not going to tune Bambu filament, I bought this expensive tool to do work for me, I don’t need a tool that I need to work on, its a tool it should help me
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Curious as to what the print looks like. I just bolted my workbench to the wall. But i’m on a long print that is not very tall.
Alright, well don’t complain when it gives you problems if you’re not willing to troubleshoot them.
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He is kinda right though. A printer of that price tag should not produce defects on this scale just because the filament is more wet than it should be or you using the standard profile.
The biggest problem is the following: The same filament that produces under extrusion and really bad z banding produces perfect prints on my P1S. The only variable in this formula is the H2D. I never even had to dry my filament while using the P1S, it just worked.
I know (or hope) that the H2D will get there too.
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I understand what you’re saying, and you’re right. It should not be producing such bad results. I know mine doesn’t.
His statement of how he will never calibrate a filament is only going to lead him down a road of despair. That’s like saying “I’ll never sharpen my lawn mower blades because it’s a tool and I shouldn’t have to do that. It should just cut my grass.”. It just doesn’t make sense. The profiles aren’t always in tune with the filaments. He can go ahead and do what he wants, but he needs to know he can have better results with just the tiniest bit of effort.
For example. Just last week I finished off a roll of Bambu PETG-HF. The default profile has the flow ratio set to 0.95. I calibrated it to 0.997. 0.95 gave me trash results.
I have a very strange sort of Z-banding, but I have never experienced such behavior with any of my 6 previous 3d printers…
ABS print, dried material:
Except the awful zone in picture, the rest of the print is quite OK.
What bothers me is the opposite face and the side faces - they have clearly better quality.
And once a Z value is exceeded, the print quality becomes again very good!?
As I said - I cannot find anything in my knowledge or my experience to badly behave so selective only on a given face, between two precise Z values.
Can someone please suggest any explanation?
Yeah. I already had to tune my cheap Amazon petg because it was over extruding like hell. Sometimes you need too, but I think that Bambu pla should just work.
Im doing my part by opening tickets and providing Bambu the logs, pictures and project files so they can tune their profiles.
I have an assumption that I can’t back up yet but I guess some of the z banding, especially with taller prints, happens because the printer shakes so much on his soft feet.
Do you have a single ams on top of your printer or two?
One AMS2. I have considered also vibrations on higher Z as a possible reason - but only one face from 4 is affected?! And at even higher Z the print becomes suddenly very good?!
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