Hey Ghosty I use Shapr3d too! $40 a month ouch! It hurts but it’s a great program. Currently just got a new MacBook Pro so learning Blender. Hoping to save myself 40 a month.
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Nice! Yea it’s not the cheapest option, but it sure seems like the easiest lol. I like how I can use my Mac or my iPad and switch between the two seamlessly. I paid for the full year. I figured I’ll try it out for a year and if I find I no longer need it after that I’ll cancel before the next re-up.
I wanted to learn blender, but my Mac mini isn’t up for the challenge lol. It freezes every time.
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So Siemens did with Parasolid® to Shapr3d what Autodesk did with Inventor® to Fusion 
Looks good 
I personally use IronCAD® Mechanical.
Ironically enough my best big PETG print so far is with Duramic3D regular PETG on Generic settings. Arachne, but otherwise all factory settings. But sense it Generic PETG the speeds are also slower. The walls are thick enough to all have infill. FYI, the H2D also has the TPU95 printed feet on it.
198mm tall.
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It was mentioned somewhere in this messy thread that the generic profiles produce good to very good results, regardless of the filament used. Just saying.
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What do you think did it for you in fixing the banding? Did you start getting good prints after updating to the Beta?
I was just thinking if your printer has bad banding issues, have you tried lubricating the rail and rods with lubricating oil? I did it on the first day I got mine, just to make sure everything was properly oiled.
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It got better after I changed the tool head but still had the issue. After this it was about on par with the issues other were having. Going to Arachne wall generation made the biggest improvement along with the current firmware update/filament profile update. Certain files will still get the banding on a layer that has a huge flat platform with lots of bridging but its a lot better. Most of the smaller geometry lines are gone. The issue for me is really only with PETG HF and PLA. Engineering/high temp filaments don’t have the issue. So I believe it has to do with cooling, layer time, and thermal expansion/shrinkage. Regular PETG does pretty well because of the slower speeds. I think eventually Bambu will get us better settings. I was going to start testing Bambu PETG HF and shrinkage sometime this weekend and see if the results change on the same file by just adjusting shrinkage. However with the current out of stock PETG HF I don’t really want to waste my current stock on testing. I can just avoid certain files that I can tell will have the banding issues.
I know others say its not technically “z-banding” and it isn’t in regards to z axis of the machine’s mechanical parts. but it is banding on the z axis of the part. No body seems to have a specific name for it but love to say its not z banding and that its normal. Well it is normal but not to the degree that we have been seeing compared to other bambu printers.
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Sharing some more photos of my discoveries during the toolhead inspection//swapping the heating assemblies:
Looks like wear to me.
Oh snap! The screw head…
This is sticky AF, found it everywhere.
i had this too - its grease from the extruder gear.
i needed to clean it and swap the knives for my extra ones…
Just for the protocol:
Bambu sends a new toolhead with x-axis assembly… cause someone has two left hands
Chimming in!
Have been running the H2D the last 4-5 days and I can confirm that while I checked everything in this topic, the Z banding is there. Unable to post photos right now, but i had banding issues on models that my p1p is printing flawlessly (ABS only)
ADDITIONAL issue is that snug supports fail bettween support interface and supported layer. Practically the supported layer has issues to adhere to interface, and Ive already tried several times with different settings, even setting 0,1 topz in .2 layers , with 0.1 interface spacing and 3 interface layers. This happens in totally flat bridging locations.
But that i can work around. Having the H2D the … most anticipated printer of the year at least, having paid an arm and a leg and getting results that i would expect from an ender 3 , is disappointing to say the least.
And the layer lines… oh god… it DOES feel like an ender 3…
Before anyone says its the model, i design my models, and ive printed them 100s, if not 1000s of times on a p1, voron trident, and couple elegoo neptunes. So when i say this is not expected results, ITS REALLY NOT , especially given the price tag .
That’s a bummer. I have heard of people having problems with supports and I did have a similar problem with supports on a pair of AMS2 wall brackets. Exactly as you said that where the supports meet they break or leave to much room away. On my Helicopter design the supports come out good same as my P1S. I don’t really have much experience tacked up yet with supports and the H2D and it might be a while until I do because I hate using supports so much I will design a part in multiple parts to avoid it if I can. Any edges sticking out I try to lead to them from a chamfer or fillet. But I know there are times where it is unavoidable.
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would you post a layer line comparison between both of your machines using the same model same material?
Not gonna waste time with this. This is just finetune related. COMPLETELY unacceptable for the price tag, but its something i can tackle. Now the SUPPORTS issue is the more serious one. I cant really explain whats up with this, but i suspect it has something to do with the f/w mixing the colours in supports . Both are materials that SHOULD blend (ABS and ASA) but might not be possible in the case of support interface, hence the awful split. To give some more view in it, its like the area that is supposed to be supported just warps away, but its also not just that, as i can actually see printed lines that ended in spaghetti (and no , the AI did not catch it)
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This is in regard to the support failure i mentioned. You can see the GAP between interface and supposed supported layers. As well the spaggheti that the ai did not recognise. Ill check the timelapse of the next model now, which had EVEN worse spaghetti/airprinting but again AI did NOT catch it.
Heres the next print with said issues
And banding on the currently printing item.
Note: Noticed that with ABS its either neither unnoticable but there, or gonne completely but cant determine what and why.
This one is with PLA and NO the dual colour is that last layer only, but to that its only black, yet you see consistent banding…
I left the door open after taking this photo to check if anything goes differently (the model will continue with simple geometry and only black after 3-4 layers of dual color so i will be able to tell if it makes any difference)
Thinking it might be related to this
Slicer settings issue.
Post 3mf
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