It looks like it is larger on the bottom. I remember previously you had to do some modifications to fit say bondtech cht nozzles which were the normal designs because they would hit the bottom of the plate compared to these smaller nozzles.
Is this modification still required in order to fit the triangelabs nozzle? I looked at triangelabs but was put off from this and other nozzles as they looked quite different than these cht nozzles designed for TZ hotends.
Yes the v6 nozzles will fit in the tx3.0 hot end but the X1 printer will temperature error out with steel or tungsten v6 nozzles. I did not test the new ZSD diamond v6 nozzle out but I think it might error out also.
Plus another member on this board is having v6 diamond nozzle temperature errors with the original diamond nozzle and the older aftermarket hot ends.
Hey, as someone who is just learning about this hotend and very interested, this thread is confusing me. @bignazpwns is talking about how great the TZ3 hotend is while @3DTech is repeatedly saying the TZ3 makes the X1 “temperature error out”. So which is it?
Are there any nozzles that don’t cause this error with the TZ3 installed? (Preferably high flow)
Personally I’m interested in using 1.4mm or even 1.8mm nozzles for PLA. So even plain old brass work fine for this purpose (I think). Are there any CHT / high flow nozzles that would work without error for this purpose on the X1/TZ3?
Ok this helps a lot actually. I’ve actually been looking at the Panda. They already have a similar high flow nozzle (internal geometry) for Revo and it goes up to 1.4 I think, any reason that wouldn’t work?
I decided to try the Tz3.0 hot end and ordered it. The hot end arrived today and after installing it I keep getting nozzle temperature error messages when I try to do a self test or a calibration. I triple checked that the connectors are secure and also tried unplugging and plugging the connectors back in. I haven’t been able to print with it yet. It seems that the nozzle came with a dead thermistor and I’ll have to swap one in from my factory nozzle.
It must be a defective heater or thermistor. I can print with it just fine without issue, both PLA and PETG.
I have not tested the CHT nozzle yet, it comes with a 0.4 and 0.6 hardened steel single nozzle and I’m just using the 0.4 one. No errors ir any issues on X1C latest firmware with AMS
I have not tested the .8 nozzle size they do have .8 steel and brass nozzles out but it also depends on the filament you will be using and the speed you want to use with the .8 nozzle.
I think the dual heater mod would be the solution with the .8 nozzle at this time until other hot ends are available.
There were listings on Amazon for nozzle kits that went up to 1.0mm. It was an assortment of sizes in one kit. However they were all removed within the past week.
I did some max flow rate tests with the 0.6mm nozzle using the Orca Slicer max flowrate test. My results were similar to some others I saw posted elsewhere and on YouTube. So far, the max flow rate with the 0.6mm nozzle for me is around 32mm^3. Any more than that I either get print quality issues or a noticeable color shift in the filament. I’ll test the 4mm nozzle later. I also ordered some 1.0mm nozzles, however I don’t think that will make a huge difference in max flow rate. It wouldn’t matter anyway because I’d be using them for vase mode prints.
With the Bambu factory 0.4mm nozzle and hotend, I was getting a max of 24.0-25.5mm^3/second depending on the color of Bambu filament.
People just say random stuff without any testing. Most don’t even have the stuff or any idea on what they are talking about.
The temp error happens on every. If you run it fast it will happen. It was a update they did a few months after release to fight the aftermarket hotends. Basically here is what they did.
When printing fast the heater runs at x amount. They set a threshold in the firmware so if it hits x amount for so long it stops the print. We found ways around this I’m not going to go into details since it’s hardware mods that require some knowledge. But that is a thing they put in the firmware to fight aftermarket hotends. Now the new one from haldis came with a new heater to fight this. Does it help? Yeah I can’t remember much off hand I posted some numbers a while ago. But it does not fix the issue because it’s in the firmware. The nozzle starts to cool a normal print increases the power to maintain that temp. Bambu with that does it a little then hits an error. I can’t remember off hand what temp, and power it does it at but I wanna say around 245c was the sweet spot. 250c would cut off way faster and the same with 235c if I remember right. Again I did this stuff a while ago but there’s a temp range that helps fight this but you can’t eliminate it. It’s by design to fight the aftermarket hotends.
It’s the hotend outrunning the heater. And as of right now the the haldis is the best hotend/heater combo you can get for a x1. This issue is actually more prevalent on the biqu revo but I kinda figured it would be based on how the heater for revos is meh. But it’s firmware.
When printing fast the heater runs at x amount. They set a threshold in the firmware so if it hits x amount for so long it stops the print.
for me that temp difference is 5 celcius, anything over that and the stock heater gives up
We found ways around this I’m not going to go into details since it’s hardware mods that require some knowledge
basically drilling another thermistor hole more away from the heater so the read temp is lower than what the heater is pushing. Idk why you hesitated to share this
I’m not sure why, but I’m having frequent issues with my Tz3.0 hot end and PETG filament. I was mostly printing PLA after I received mine and got the parts to fix it(heating element that ti came with was defective).
With PETG I’m getting frequent clogs in the nozzle and hot end with the 0.6mm nozzle. I tried a few different brands and colors of PETG and all of them have the same issue. As a sanity check, I put the Bambu 0.6mm how end back on my X1 and I’ve done close to 15 hours of PETG printing since then without a clog or any other issue.
I’m beginning to wonder if I received a defective unit considering all of the issues I had with it so far. However I don’t know exactly what would cause basically a metal pipe to be defective. I can’t find any issues with it when I look inside with a magnifying glass and light.
A bit of a guess, but maybe try changing the retraction settings. The tz3 is different in many ways cf the standard hot end, materials, internal shape, etc. Petg is more ‘senstitive’ than pla, particularly at speed. Also, it behaves more like a hot melt adhesive.
The solution would be to get a heater that has more power around 100w or to splice two OEM BambuLab heaters together and mount them both to the aftermarket hotend.
and more nozzle options.