Anyone have the issue where you get the message ‘Nozzle temperature malfunction’? The printing pauses while the temp goes down to zero. You can restart it then the temp rises, but often falls again. After several attempts you might get luck (if it hasn’t screwed up the print in the process). I am getting seriously sick of this printer. It is costing me time and money. The fact the problem eventually fixes itself for no apparent reason then fails again for no apparent reason is very frustrating. If it is a firmware issue then why can’t we roll back to the previous one? I checked the cables etc. I can’t imagine it would be a cable if on the odd occasion it prints for 6 plus hours (then fails the next print). About to give up on this…
You can roll back to the previous firmware via Bambu Handy at Settings → Firmware Version.
Intermittent errors can be the most frustrating of all. Did you replace the hot end? Did you look up the HMS code here – > HMS Code Index | Bambu Lab Wiki? What troubleshooting have you done?
Thanks for the reply. I see no way of rolling the firmware back under settings/firmware version. There are no options. Other than check connections etc. I don’t know what else to do. The fact it sometimes works if I repeatedly restart is weird. However, that obviously isn’t an option. It often screws up the print and I have to scrap the whole thing. Not sure what else to do.
Here is what mine looks like. However, I just realized your post is in the P1P section and I have X1C’s. Is yours different? Can you share a screenshot?
Mine doesn’t have the text in green. There are no options. Thanks for trying though.
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So I updated to the most recent Bambu Labs software and firmware. I still have this issue. It has been months and still this extremely frustrating problem. Do I just throw this thing in the trash and buy a printer that works? Sorry, frustrated. This thing sometimes works flawlessly and then other times just constantly throws up this error and stops printing. At a loss here. Thank you.
Looking at the temp it goes up to 212…never gets to 220 then fails. It often fails about 10% into the print.
I also have this issue on an X1C so I wonder if it is an issue with Bambu’s heating algorithm and the fact they don’t allow us to tune it for the environment we’re in.
So I’ve been using the “V2” Aliexpress hotends for a good minute. Modified a V6 Diamond Back to get it to work in there with great results.
But I would notice trouble with the thermisters and or the ceramic heating elements included in those Aliexpress kits.
I’d get Temperature malfunctions if I ran the printer ‘too’ fast. Granted I’m going a little faster than stock speeds but not insanely, like 16-20mm/s^3 flow rate with PLA.
When I print basically faster than 16mm/s^3 I see the temperature on the X1 Display slowly go down after the first layer. Specifically when its doing the infill bottom floors, 220 target temps, slowly goes down to 219, 218, etc etc until what I think is the programmed saftey cut off which is more tha 5 c off.
So at 214 it’ll instantly trigger the malfunction message and pauses the print. I can usually resume it, but it’ll shutoff again in a couple minutes.
The only solutions is two things, install the original thermister and ceramic heater from the stock hot end into the “V2” hotend, and this doesn’t really happen anymore.
Some of the other Aliexpress ceramic heaters I have, ‘instantly’ detonate inside, once I tell it to heat up, it seems to do it too fast? and crack the ceramic element. This has happened, 3 times back to back.
I mean I get it its from Aliexpress, the quality could be anywhere at this point, but what I didn’t understand was the low-temperature run off at pretty normal flow rates.
Is the PWM tuning to maintain heat possibly just not calibrated with these aftermarket heaters? Or maybe its the thermister itself incorrectly reading? I’d replace both of them at the same time usually, its just odd that Aliexpress sold so many, without much people complaining about that issue.
Since each one thus far, ~6 sets of units, never work except the stock bambu ones.
I've been trying to get these aftermarket thermisters and ceramic heaters to finally work with the CHT setup I've got on another machine, same issue. In the 16+mm/s^3 rates. When I'm trying to get to 25mm/s^3 which should be easily achievable with the CHTs. Its just the heating element can't keep up.
I am using Slice Engineering's Boron Nitrides with all of these.It sounds like you’re thermistor isn’t sending the right signal to the board sometimes. I’d take out your hotend assembly and clean the thermal paste off the thermistor and ceramic heater and reapply liberally. You can clean them with IPA. You should have a packet of thermal paste supplied with the printer. Don’t mistake it for the lubricating grease.
Then reinstall, ensuring you get the plugs in correctly. It’s possible for at least one of them to look seated right but be one pin off. Then do a full calibration from the menu. It would be worth purchasing a complete hotend assembly as a spare.
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I’m having a very similar problem with my P1S . Got it for Christmas and haven’t been able to complete any prints. The temperature reading goes to 0 deg. If i cycle the power on the printer it comes back. Bambu sent me a new cable and board but it still hasn’t fixed the problem. This is a very expensive paper weight right now.
I just got one of those “V2” hotends and I came across this issue during a max flow rate calibration. Except I was able to reach about 27-29mm/s³ with PETG and a 0.6mm nozzle when the error came up. That was using the included thermistor and heating element so I think I’ll try switching to the “OEM” one to see if there’s a difference because the quality was still pretty good so it seems like I could get more out of it.
I modified my X1 to run 2 heater in parallel to fix this problem. I am also going to try a flat 70w ceramic heater instead of 2 stock 48w ones on my P1, its on the way now.
Nice, just splice them together?
indeed… no soldering needed either, just slip a the stripped wires under the silicone jacket of the main heater. Honestly its not needed anymore as there is an 82w single heater available now. It wont keep up above 45mm³/s but i never print faster then that anyways.
82Wvwait what, is there??
I just modified a V2 (for a DB nozzle) and I can’t get either the heater/thermistor combo that came with the V2 or the stock h/t combo that came with the stock .4 hotend for the P1P to heat up past 126 before dropping back down to about 38.
I will try cleaning everything up again and look for the thermal paste that came with the P1P and try again, I guess.
I’m tempted to try double heater trick that @maximit mentioned if it fails again.
Just not sure how to secure both heaters to the hotend.
Where can I get one of those 70w?
70w is the CHCB heater but when i measured it with my multimeter it actually showed 82w, they are upgrading them all to 82w is the info I got from the seller. I also spoke to the guys making the Rapido 2 heaters and they stated the power to be at 82w as well, so my guess is they are using the same heating element. Both can be had from AliExpress.
In regards to securing the double heater, i placed it at 90 degrees from each other as those are the 2 flat sides. The stock clip and sock slip right over them, no problems. Some other people did 180 degrees across from each other, but that required a custom clip. I tested my dual setup up to 60mm³/s with ASA as 300 degrees and it had no problems. The 82w heater started throwing temp malfuctions and could not keep it heated above 45mm³/s with ASA. With lower temp of PLA there was no such problem though.
Lots of into in my discord dedicated to Babmu, invite in my profile, click on my name.
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So you had no problems running the 2 X 48w heaters in parallel ?
No problems at all. I have them running for a couple of months printing 24/7 non-stop on ludicrous mode with CHT nozzles, PLA, ASA, Nylon and other high temp stuff with no problems.