Having Problems with adhesion to the build plate. (Textured Bambulab)

I am having trouble getting the prints to stay on the build plate. This has only become a problem the last week or so. I have tried many different “solutions” including the Bambulab wiki. None have helped yet. Any ideas out there?

Welcome to the forum.

Washing the plate with wish soap and hot water. Give it a really good scrub and rinse it off being very careful to avoid touching the built surface. Don’t use IPA. What filament are you printing with?

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Its Funny, I have also noticed consistent liffting in corners off objects particulary squares in recent week or two, yett I am well across ccorrect handlign, cleaning and usage and in fact dont typically have any adhesion issues for months.
I have started a print diary, date and time, ambient temp, chamber temp, approx layer and model, which ccorner lited first… its bizzare and random so this is the only weay I can figure to trak it down.

Bambu X1C - latest firmware
Bambu Sttudio - latest v 1.9.1.66 on Windows
Bambu Textured PEI
PLA+ typically
Bed - tested from 50-70 in 5 degree inccrements, first layer 5\10 above others, or ALL layers same .
Nozzle - from 190-230 on PLA+ and 180-200 on PLA META
Part fan - 100% always
Aux Fan -OFF, 40,50 60,60,70,80,90,100%s
Chamber Fan - steady att 70%

I am having to use larger brims, or fake mouse-ears via primative circle (when using Bambu Studio - Orca does it natively) , Door open, door closed , adusting Aux ffan on\off , 40, 70, 100% - nothing really is a golden bullet.

I use gloves on plates as I know i have terrible skin oils and was twice witrh dawn and even sometimes give it a light scrub. I switched to new Textured PEI plate and after cleaning twice with soap and hot water and drying with a clean cloth, paper towel, air drying - all the same issues.

Some examples - I reguarlly print over the white writing, but in this case i wonder aboutt heat differential.
GIANT internal and external brims

Warping here near the handle and edge, pulling up the brim - notice the different colour

Edges lifting, its big enough surface shouldnt lift, forgot a brim

Separation from a 5mm brim with 0.1 brim gap

I am printing PLA. I didn’t have this problem up until a few days ago. I think i upgraded the firmware a few days ago. I have read that others are getting this problem also.
I have tried the soap and water, soap water and alcohol, and i even tried windex as someone has suggested. None of that worked for the textured PEI plate.

really frustrating. thanks for answering.
b

I know this hasn’t been the most popular response to people having issues with their stock BL golden PEI plates, but I bought a bunch of the cheapo aftermarket golden PEI plates (before Bambu Lab offered one) and mine have been flawless.
I washed them with soap the first time and haven’t washed them with soap since.
I do a quick IPA wipe after every print and never have the problems people report with the BL golden PEI plates.

For $16, what do you have to lose?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BFCSXVYZ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3F6YG9AOSFKU4&psc=1

If you get one with the Gold PEI on one side and cool colorful pattern (PEO) on the other for a few more $, they are dual use.
A word of advice though, the PEO colored sides do need to be washed off with soap and water on a regular basis to get PETG to stick.

But the Gold PEI sides just don’t suffer the same issues as the BL plates. I don’t know why… but they’re just better.

I had similar issues after using the BambuLabs Silk filaments. I couldn’t get much to stick to that side of my gold textured PEI plate after that.

Is yours an original textured pei? mine is and I’ve been having corner issues since new firmware. Having to use a brim even on very basic cube shapes which would usually adhere no issues. I’m tempted to order the smooth pei because I’ve never liked the overly textured finish on the original plate tbh. I’ve got an aftermarket gold pei which is decent but it’s annoying having the plate undetected message pausing every print.

Any time I start to lose adhesion on the textured plate, I scrub it with this and back in biz. No Iso, just hot water and a scrub brush.

That being said, I have found the Hi Temp Smooth PEI sheet and Dimafix to be essentially warp proof.

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People have this illusion that IPA clears grease, it’s actually awful at clearing grease, it just smears it around. White spirit is actually a better degreaser, although it does leave residue and I would never use it on my plates. I just fill the dish bowl with hot water and fairy liquid, swill my dishcloth around a bit, wring it out then wipe the plate. I will sometimes use an alcohol-based glasses wipe on it after doing that just to remove any soap residue I may not have dried off properly.

I own a P1P so this isn’t a thing for me.
Isn’t there a way to disable that on the X1?

actually there probably is I just haven’t found it!!

the other side of my aftermarket pei has a smooth diamond-y shaped pattern that transposes on the print it’s pretty cool!

I accidentally “smudged” my marker once, and had those same messages. I was able to print out the marker and attach it to the plate and the warnings went away.

I just ordered some after-market plates and I will probably do the same thing to them.

(For reference if anyone is curious: Bambu Lab Textured PEI build plate marker repair - Beyond the Manual - Glowforge Owners Forum)

You can turn it off, but I like it to make sure I don’t accidentally set it wrong.

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Regardless…

Other than the annoying message, what is your experience between the two plates?

I just started a thread asking the community.

well I think I’ve just found it. well done, Tom. real slick :sob:

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It’s just workflow. Because I own a P1P it’s always a manual selection for me anyhow.
Since 95% of my prints just use the aftermarket PEI plate I usually just sits with the textured plate selected anyhow.
There have even been times I forget to switch it back to textured, but the only thing it really changes is the bed heater temp. And with the aftermarket PEI plate, it really hasn’t made a difference whether the PETG is printed on a 70 degree bed or 80 degree bed… it just works. :woman_shrugging:

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forget Windex, back in the smooth PEI non magnetic build plate days it was used to reduce the adhesion of PETG to the PEI somewhat but even that was so so.
There is a “Sledgehammer” method that you likely have not tried yet and that is wipe the build plate with pure acetone, do not soak it or apply while the build plate is hot as the acetone can degrade the PEI otherwise.

This was how I accidentally smudged my first build plate marker. I accidentally grabbed the acetone instead of the IPA.

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yep it certainly will take the prints off but it does work in “rejuvenating” the build plate surface especially with difficult to clean contaminants like silicon.
Btw If you believe that it was caused by firmware then roll back to the previous version and see if it works better.

I may try using it on the build plate that seems useless after running the BL Silk filament on a few times. It might be able to restore it then.

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Do note that older Black textured PEI plate used a PEI sticker instead of PEI powder coating the newer Gold ones have and I used Acetone with the Gold ones but never tried it with the older Black ones.