newbie here (previous experience was an ender 3 v2) - just got my p1p, been delighted at the speed and fantastic quality of the prints. Wanted to make a shell for the P1P, looked at the miminal enclosure and started to print some of the parts. Initial test print with the top left front worked beautifully, but since that print, every attempt to print the top left bottom or any bottom piece for that matter fails spectacularly. This morning i woke up to the mess of both right top and bottom pieces failing mid way.
Question, and help - since iām new to P1P, iām looking for advice on what i can do to fix this. Initially i thought there was a need for more adhesion, so i did a brim, also added tree supports. This worked well for the single piece test print. The printer seems to have caught on something midway - iām wondering if the vibration, and the speed nearer to the top is just too much - is there a way to slow down the printer midway though?
I cannot provide a solution but noticed the ARC P1P files, when there are two printing similar to how you have two shown on your build plate, whomever created the files for the ARC enclosure added a few āfeaturesā if you will that connect both vertical uprights to each other thus providing support for printing tall files. If you can figure out a way to connect the two parts together with temporary structures that are cut away after printing that might just work for you.
I also noticed the same thing if attempting to print a single tall upright print like that, itās bound to fail towards the top due to not being stable. I discovered that trying to print the ARC files. That process reminded me of my 4 Creality printers and the fun I had with those over the years. BL printers are the next level and I am more than ready to change my ways and go with the new tech, like you said these are wonderful printers!
On your picture I can see a layer shift nearly 10 mm, before the print fails. I had this too while printing the P1P āVisionā enclosure and I think itās related to the tree supports. And to get the parts stick on the plate, I had to shrink the ābrim-object gapā to 0.05 mm increase the brim to 10 mm.
The P1P āVisionā enclosure can be printed without support. For the P1P āMinimalā enclosure read the printing section on the details page. The creator has noted āmaybe add supportsā and described how to add the supports. You donāt need to support the overhangs (done by auto support). Only add some tree support on the lower part, which help to stabilize the parts on the plate.
The P1P āVisionā enclosure can be printed all parts at once, but this has failed for me 2 times. It costs me nearly 1 kg filament. So at the end I decided to print each part at once, which took me nearly 2 hours a part. But it was worth it.
@print.in.3d sage adviceā¦ i went back and did a more elaborate prainting of the support, i also upped the printing temp by 5 degrees and the bed temp by 5 degrees, mainly to figure out why adhesion fails midwayā¦ lo and behold those combination helpedā¦ i managed to print 3 pieces so farā¦ fingers crossed that the rest continue to workā¦ thanks for all the help and advice here!
Exactly the same result as I tried to print the enclosure columns; every attempts went up half way and then the print faltered, collapsing to one side and pulling the object off its supports and base. I have tried slowing down the travel speed to 8000 with same negative results. I will try laying the imported column on its side and add supports to see if that would work. Fingers crossed.
Reviving a bit of a dead thread here - but I can see from your photo the back right part of the build plate is caught on the guides and is slightly raised. Iāve had this a few times if youāre not careful enough with the build plate. It will throw off the auto levelling and the first layer will not go down right, which makes tall prints fail eventually no matter what you do
Filament used: Brand new roll just opening before the print of Bambu lab PLA matte on default setting
First layer bed temp: 75
Other layer bed temp: 50
Bed is cleaned with warm soapy water and 91% isopropyl alcohol is applied before the print, (Iāve never had bed adhesion issues with any prints in my p1p)
This is not the first time this happened, so far ALL tall prints I have printed with my p1p are failing on the same location almostā¦ It prints so good as soon as it reaches that top point everything goes downhill.
The bottom of your parts is not fully vertical, which can introduce a bit of shrinkage.
The brim is not sufficient for the task at hand.
Try this:
Set a brim of at least the same width as your tubes.
Set the object distance to 0.0 to actually fuse the brim onto to object.
If you wonāt mind a bit of extra cleaning work use two layers for the brim.
Do NOT use a different bed temp for other layers! Stick with one as otherwise risk that shrinkage will reduce the bed adhesion.
If you ant to be extra safe:
Add some manual tree support between the tubes in the upper half and way before those prints kept failing.
Have not tried if Studio actually supports creating tree supports at an angle between models parts and not just from the plate or a more horizontal area of the model.
If in doubt add a wall between those tubes in your modelling software.
Two lines wide and with a gap of 0.2m to the tubes.
This should give them enough support for those fast moves running over them.
Additionally you could try to place them differently, assuming there is nothing printed on top joining themā¦
Like in a circular pattern as this would avoid the head running over the surface of all parts so often.
Last option: Add/increase a Z-hop so the nozzle wonāt make contact when travelling and tick the box to avoid crossing perimeters.
And if thatās not enough: reduce the print speed for those upper regions
Thanks for the advice I will watch out for the bed temps, the print already had brim support, they look like this:
What actually fixed the issue is reducing the speed, but now I have another issue, how can you control the speed for only the top regions, because now its printing to slow and I know it can move slightly faster for the lower part,
Currently what worked for me is setting the speed to 50, and currently Im printing 1 by 1 incase anything happens I donāt lose more filament
Before it was taking 3 hours for all 4 rods now its taking 3 hours for each rod .
