I recently purchased the H2S printer and have been pleased with the quality of my first few prints. However, things seem to be declining in quality and I am not entirely sure why. The printer has fewer than 100 hours on it. Yesterday I pulled the nozzle out to see if there were any loose screws behind it, but they were all still tight, in fact, the nozzle does not wiggle at all. I am using the “0.20mm High Quality @BBL H2S” preset which has yielded the best results in the past. Strangely enough, the lines are nearly perfect on diagonal passes, but the closer they get to moving true X and Y they seem to break down. You may observe this in the photos attached of a single print exhibiting good and bad layering, It is a physical difference, and not due to lighting conditions. Please offer any insight you might have. Thank you!
Did you get the Vision Encoder? It helps.
Check to make sure your hot end is clipped in correctly. Also tighten the screws on the heating assembly.
This was the first thing I did. The screws were tight. When this print wraps up, I will triple check that the clip is seated properly.
I did not. I may order the encoder plate if nothing else seems to help.
I doubt the encoder plate will help that much. Personally, I’d do a belt tension and then rerun calibations from the panel. Can’t hurt.
Will do, I will give that a go when this print finishes up!
Vision encoder has absolutely nothing to do with artifacts like those.
If all kinematics are fine, then I’d bet it’s on support tree wobbling and adding artifacts. It’s hard to see, but it looks like there is a giant ass tree at the back of plate.
There was an issue yesterday with print quality I was trying to solve (probably a matter of flow calibration) and when I reinstalled the clip, I reinstalled it incorrectly. Thank you for your help, and being patient with me.
That’s one of the things I was complaining about A1 nozzles.
They did change nozzles themselves, so there is no backwards compatibility. But for damn sake, that annoying clip wasn’t improved…
Right? I remember seeing this diagram yesterday and thinking, “Wow, what weenie would mess it up that badly?” Turns out, it was me. I am the weenie.
You are not alone. I did it several times, but the thing is - BL printers are only one of the few within my use case. I get it why people were complaining about X1/P1, but two screws and you know that you can’t screw up.
Same with Prusa and Nextruder - screw it in - you are done.
Revo - same thing, but have to hold the heater cassette from falling off.
So I developed a tendency of literally wiggling the nozzle by its end - if it’s clipped wrong, it would rock a bit.
Try tensioning the belts, as @LarryCnAZ also suggested — that completely fixed the issue for me.
I had an H2S with major print quality problems, and I never expected a one-month-old printer with only about 70 printing hours (most of them troubleshooting!) to need a belt tension.
Once I manually checked and properly tensioned the belts, all the issues disappeared completely.
I’m convinced this comes from a small assembly issue rather than normal wear.
I was also in contact with Bambu Lab support and went through countless tests — including bed tramming — but they never suggested checking the belt tension.
I’ll be posting a separate before/after comparison soon — the difference is huge! 
I discovered today that when changing nozzles I don’t need to manually move the lever behind the nozzle’s to raise and lower the left nozzle. I can do it via the touchpad. The wiki and video show it being moved by hand.
The top belts seem to have nice tension, I am going to check the Z belt underneath the printer. I have seen posts on the forums with similar print defects being caused by that belt.
Yesterday you were the weenie, today you are a beautiful sausage
I have an A1 and an H2S. I was annoyed the hot ends are not the same. I’d think Bambu would have enough forethought to make a hot end that would stand the test of time and be used in all their printers moving forwards. Of course, the anticipated H2C might be different as it is a totally different idea on 3D printing and hot ends in general. But everything else should be 100% identical and flawless.
Well, something like this is usually due to the typical Chinese engineering.
Not in any other negative way. It’s just the way how their engineering school and market works. Make one iteration - release on the market. Find the flaw - make another iteration and release on the market. It’s different to a western school, where you are usually iterating internally many many many times, and only then you release the product on the market. This is usually done due to the market regulation (certification) and cost of product release. Both of which is way cheaper in China. In case with A1/H2 visibly, the melt zone is longer, and the heat break was moved higher, while retaining the same overall length. H2C? New nozzles again.
And it’s not only Bambu - and not FDM industry in China. Exactly the same thing happening with cars industry over there.
Cars. one would be surprised if they knew what went on behind the scenes. Ford, little example, THOUSANDS of part numbers, nay hundreds of thousands. Actual part, 1. For those who didn’t know this, Every Ford shares the same basic modules, including Lincoln. A small motor that operates the HVAC doors is the same on an F150 as it is in a Lincoln Corsair. The part numbers though, completely different. The flip side is that Ford/Lincoln stocks the same pat, with different part numbers stamped on it, which means they have to stock 10 different motors because there are 10 different part numbers, for the same part. They all use the same Body Control Module, what sets apart a Lincoln from a Ford though is how it is programmed. There is a tool I use to enable Lincoln Fold on my F350. The mirrors now fold when I lock the door and only unfold when I open and closed the drivers door. Ford Fold unfolds when you unlock the door. Ford part number, same part.
It’s sort of brilliant in a way. So why can’t these companies set a standard for certain parts? Considering how many of these are from the same factory too.