I’m having so e printer isses, with the filament is not being spread properly… I get clumps.
Does setting the filament to PETG even tho it is PLA cause the temperature to be too hi? It is working doing so.
PETG and PLA have very different thermal needs and the slicer will not work well unless you choose the correct and matching choices.
PETG is a higher temp filament and will cause issues with PLA.
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Printing PLA at PETG temps would, at best, only be a temporary solution to your issues.
If you are getting clumps when using PLA settings on PLA, there are a number of possible root causes. They can range from simply a dodgy roll of PLA, through a partial clog in the nozzle and/or extruder, a lot of resistance in the PTFE paths, degraded thermal paste of the thermistor/heater and go all the way to damaged pins in the TH board or a faulty TH board itself.
When using PLA settings on PLA, what does it look like when manually feeding filament? Does it come out of the nozzle straight or is it curling? If it is curling: Do a few hex key cold pulls. And while you are at it, have a look at your extruder. Is there residue? Do you need to clean it out a little?
If the issue does not appear to be around the hot end, how about resistance in your PTFE’s? Can you manually feed smoothly from the external spool/AMS all the way to the tool head? If there’s a lot of resistance or even snagging, check the relevant PTFE end for wear or a less then perfectly straight cut and correct where neccessary.
If the issue is in the tool head but not related to a partial clog, can you check the nozzle temp with a different (maybe contactless) thermometer? Does it match what the thermistor is reporting?
Of course, if it is working for you to print PETG with PLA, you could continue. But I’d expect the root cause to show itself again very soon…
Will look into all those. Btw, It stopped feeding 1/2 way through. Is that a diagnostic sigh?
Thanks
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Halfway through from the AMS?
That sounds like you want to remove the PTFE’s from the rear buffer and give them a slight trim at as close to 90° as you can manage before reinserting and pushing in fully). If you can see an angle in your cut, you need to do it again as the filament will find any tiny gap.
If not from the AMS, check if there’s broken filament in the tool head.
FYI, I don’t have an AMS.
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Ah. Sounds like you either have a partial clog (see my link above) or your thermal paste needs renewal. When removing the hot end for the cold pull(s), you can have a quick peek under the silicone sock to check if the white paste is brittle. If yes, renew (there should be a description in the wiki).
Can’t move the filament. It is stuck. I tried heating the nozzle, but it is still stuck. Seems I have to take something apart?
I did notice that the AMS unit with X1C recognizes most of my PLA filaments at a higher temperature of 240 C rather than the 230 C as indicated on box label and webpage official specs if this makes a difference
Yes. It is most likely a clog. Follow the wiki instructions on how to remove using the link I posted earlier.
I don’t have that tool. Do u know it’s diameter?
You’ll need two of the three hex keys that came with the printer. The large one to free the hot end and the 1.5mm one to fuze into the clog before pulling.
I don’t have any hex keys. I guess hex keys are common so i should be able buy some?.
What’s the diameter of the big 1?
Yes, very common indeed. Have a look for them on Amazon. You want a set starting from 1.5mm. It pays to get longer ones if you have an AMS.
PS: I think 2.5 or 3 for the big one.
To unclog, 1 procedure calls for the white tube to be disconnected from the print head, then the filament pulled forward out of the white tube to then feed it into the print head?
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There are several cold pull methods described under the link above. All require removal of the white PTFE filament feeder tube.
However, I have never had much luck purely with the needle and the semi-auto cold pull. Doing the hex key cold pull however always resolved my nozzle clogs (unless the root cause was a bent nozzle or there was also an extruder clog).
Ok, the hex key cold pull method is the 1 where the tube comes off and u manually feed the filament. No further actions on the extruder. Will give that a go next. I really don’t want to take apart the extruder, so hopefully it will work.
Thanks.
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Do not forget to remove the hotend (very easy, just be gentle with the wires) before using the hex key. Otherwise the hex key needs to go through the extruder gear which … is not ideal. AMHIK.
Oh, I was looking at the simpler method without hotend removed. Will try that, then the hot method if needed, the “Hot hex wrench” unclogging method.
Thanks.
PS So what good is the method where u just manually feed the filament. Isn’t that what the auto process does, the same thing?
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