I am having issues printing the honeycomb wall tiles. I have tried three different files a total of 5 times and all have failed to one degree or another. Always at the edge, I will include pictures. I have tried both Creality and Bambu PLA. All other prints, over 75, have been successful when there’s been no “user error” otherwise known as me being stupid. I am using a 3 week old X1C. I have tried both the textured plate and the cool plate with similar results. Filament is dry. The prints both immediately before and after an attempt have been excellent just not had one single honeycomb panel come out correctly. I’ve put in a ticket with Bambu but so far no assistance. Any helpful ideas would be appreciated.
Looks like a bed adhesion issue. Have you tried washing the bed with hot water and dish detergent? The oils from your hands will cause adhesion issues so be sure once you have thoroughly washed the plate to not touch it where in the printing area. Pad it dry with a clean paper towel. Also upping the bed temperature will help.
The single line on the front means your not running the automatic calibration. You can try running that and also make sure the bed leveling is happening. If that doesn’t help, the stock profile has the PEI bed at 55. Try it at 65?
This is what usually pops up when beginning the print. If I click Flow dynamics cal when I have the PEI plate in there it gives me an error. Am I missing some type of calibration? Before the last failure I had the machine do an entire calibration.
I’ll give raising the temp a shot, any known drawbacks to this?
This is an easy one and @JonRaymond hit it on the head.
This is a classic bed layer adhesion issue. It’s caused by a combination of too low a contact surface area with the build plate and too many high temp layers on top. The laws of physics dictate that as the upper warmer layers are deposited on top of the cooler lower layer, you will get a larger heat differential causing each subsequent layer to shrink. This will manifest itself as a force which wants to pull up at the edges which is what you’re seeing.
This 1:30 video explains this phenomena although this guy is a bit of a dick in that he deliberately says “Tune in next time for the remedy” just to get clicks and then doesn’t ever post the remedy. But read on because the remedy follows, each having advantages and disadvantages.
The good news is that you have three tools in your toolbox to remedy this. We’ll assume that you practice proper plate hygiene and have cleaned your plate with dish soap and water and finally used 99% IPA to clean off any residue skin oils.
Adhesive will definitely work and probably the most fool proof but I generally don’t like using adhesive on textured PEI plate because of the extra cleaning needed afterwards. But know that it works well.
The next method is to increase the bed temperature and decrease the Other layer temp in the filament profile. (this is a good overall fix that addresses the filament problem at the core) This will create less of a temperature differential between stacked layers and therefore it will decrease the shrinkage forces between layers that cause the warping off the build plate. You’ll have to experiment though to find the right settings for your filament. I’d recommend cutting a section of the model down to a smaller section that is causing you trouble, reproduce the problem first and then experiment with this remedy. This will allow for fast repeatable experimentation without wasting a lot of filament. The downside is that this could invite elephant foot warping at the bottom of the model if it’s set too high. It is my preferred method because once dialed-in to the filament profile, I rarely have to worry about bed separation again.
The best method is to simply use a brim on the offending model. Thicken the brim or widen the brim to 10mm if it doesn’t work at the defaults. Keep that brim gap 1mm or lower. A brim will cause the first layer to “glue down” much more effectively than even glue itself and will ensure that the model adheres to the build plate. Try outer layer only first as that usually will work out of the gate but if it doesn’t and you have a hollow geometry like the one you’re printing, you may need to do both inner and outer brim.
Now having said that, the downside is that brims can be a pain in the ass to remove. For that you can use mouse ears in the supports section. But you will need to download Orca Slicer for that feature. It is not available in Bambu Studio. The benefit of mouse ears is that you get the benefits of brims without having to cut off as much material. But be aware, they are not as strong as brims so YMMV.
Appreciate all the info, If this isn’t a sticky it probably needs to be. I will try this today. Thank you all for the assistance. I think the people here are going to be far more valuable tech support resource than Bambu is.
For what it’s worth. I only use Bambu’s high temp plate and after market plates for all my prints. With Bambu’s HT plates, I coat it with hairspray for good results.
I mostly use aftermarket plates with a PEA coating and it has eliminated most adhesion issues I’ve ever encountered.
My boy friend has printed a whole honeycomb wall and never had this issue with his P1P.
I really think Bambu’s gold PEI plate is not as good as the gray one they used to ship with. I see a lot of people posting on here about adhesion issues and it always appears to be with the Bambu gold PEI plate.
Thanks for all the help folks, I went with 65 degrees on the plate, 220 on the PLA and so far used an 8mm brim which worked on my first attempt, running another piece now. I don’t believe I’ll be able to fit an 8mm on all of the pieces, it rejected it as over the allowable width on the middle field piece but I’ll lower it to fit. You all saved me many hours of troubleshooting, it is appreciated.
FWIW, I disabled plate checking and have it run the calibration anyway, and it works fine with my textured PEI plates. Even with Textured PEI picked in the slicer, it doesn’t complain about running it. I’m not using any beta software or mods, so it should work for other folks, too.
So, just for kicks I tried printing a section of the Honeycomb Storage Wall (wall-honeycomb-bambu-211x248-fixed.stl off Printables) on my P1P with different plates.
I used Overture Black ECO PLA with the Generic PLA Basic slicer profile (220/65)
0.4 nozzle using the 0.20mm standard @BBL P1P built in printing profile
Loaded the stock double sided Bambu PEI textured gray plate and cranked it up to “Ludacris Mode” before it started printing. Estimated print time 1h 43m.
