I recently cleaned my carbon rods and re-calibrated my printer and when I went to print this(something I’ve printed many times before w/o issue) it shows this banding issue.
When I try to print a simple cylinder the issue does not appear.
Seems that it could be related to layer time?
Any help would be appreciated. I can provide more info if necessary.
Printer: X1C .6 nozzle
Orca Slicer 2.2.0
TTYT3D Silk pla
Watching…I have the exact some problem with my SV06 ACE & Orca.
Probably wrong but that looks like z wobble. Being so uniformed and not connected to layer size/time. Can you measure the gap between each bad area? And compare that to the gap between lead screw threads.
My 2nd suggestion would be trying different filament to see if its a color inconsistancy during manufacturing.
Probably wrong, but something to check
@StreetSports
I measured the dark areas on the left print and they are about 4mm.
I think some sort of z wobble is a good guess as the banding is somewhat consistent and I can even feel the bands with my finger.
What has me confused is that the bands are different on these 3 models in the photo.
-The one on the right is with a bunch of modified slicer settings(i’ve printed hundreds with these settings without issue)
-The middle one is with a standard print profile but with variable layer height
-The one on the left is with a standard print profile and without variable layer height.
Also, the cylinder I printed does not show any banding. This confused me the most.
I am currently printing the same model with different filament just to rule that out.
I will report back tomorrow.
I havnt had this problem, so please excuse me if im completely off.
Check that these silicone spacers are still on the top of your lead screws.
I do see faint banding on the cylinder. Easier to see on the shaded side.
Nice butts btw lol
At 4mm, it points to lead screw issues. Follow StreetSports advice and use the opportunity to check if one or more lead screws/bearings has been dislocated. Than can happen, for example, when poop is trapped under the bearing and the heat bed descends almost to the bottom.
Edit: Forgot to add: Also check the Flow preview. From the slicer images provided, it looks like you have that problem in particular in high flow areas. Lowering flow by 10% may already help a lot.
I didn’t see the print settings, is there any chance you made up a new layer height, for example .1 instead of the factory .08 or 1.2?
@StreetSports
@EnoTheThracian
I checked the silicone spacers and they look healthy. The one in the back is hard to see but I tried wiggling and pulling each lead screw and they all felt the same. No weird play. They are not dislocated.
@krellboy I never changed the layer height but I can include the file here
Booty.3mf (3.8 MB)
I’ve printed hundreds of these booties using this file without issue.
Also, some of the tests that I printed were using bone stock settings and the issue was still there so idk.
I did print a few more tests.
I also took another photo of the little cylinder. Not sure if I see banding in it but I do kinda see it in the last photo where you pointed it out.
Here is the little cylinder at a different angle.
Here is a new cylinder that I just printed.
Here is another print that I did this morning with different filament.
and a photo comparing it to the first print with the banding issues.
Couldn’t recreate it. I’m going to try again with the silk gold filament.
I did try to re-tension the z axis belt before printing all of this.
It makes a bit of squeaking noise so i decided to adjust it. Still makes squeaking noises though…lol
That can explain a lot as it can change basic rheology pretty significantly. And it makes troubleshooting pretty impossible. Zits, blobs, curling, … are all things I associate with filament moisture. Never mind the fact that it can push filament out of calibration. So best to dry the material before troubleshooting. At least that way you are avoiding a goose chase.
Maybe this helps
Z-banding
Thanks for the 3mf, the layer height of .4 is a multiple of a complete stepper rotation, so that isn’t the problem.
I wonder about the bands, are they only related to the Z axis position, or do they vary based on how much filament is in a layer? For example, if you print a large cylinder, do the bands slow down as the height reaches the apex? If so I’d wonder if it was a problem with the filament itself, what you could be seeing is oscillation in the diameter feedback loop at the manufacturer.
Confusing. definitely seems tied to something thats seperated by about 4mm, no matter how much filament is laid down. Also shows up more with the silk. Such a small offset that its hidden at certain angles.
You mentioned the z axis squeeking. This is a real stretch but the last idea I have is that maybe the z axis has something “sticky” like a bad bearing. Slowly binds, tightening the belt and then at a certain point, the binding releases because the belt cant stretch anymore in that area. Possibly slippingbon the bad idler. Dark spots being the peak of the bind or release point. Probably also wrong, but something else to think about.
Beautiful prints otherwise, so the filament seems tuned well enough. Have you checked out the scarf joint for the seam?
Eww, if this is a file you sliced before the last update, try downloading and reslicing.
I just find it odd because I’ve never encountered this issue before.
I know it’s terrible practice but I usually store my filament out in the open and have always been able to print near perfect prints. Smaller more detailed prints might be a bit stringy or some zits or blogs here and there but that is usually the worst of it. Never seen anything like this happen with the banding.
I’m printing with different material now but I’ll try to dry the same material out and run some test prints for science though.
I will try this out after a few tests.
Might help overall quality anyways
I hope it’s just the filament!
I’ll look at that idler again. I do remember it looking a bit dirty on the face that makes contact with the belt. and it may have been a bit loose. Not sure though.
Eww, if this is a file you sliced before the last update, try downloading and reslicing.
I probably haven’t re-sliced this in months. haha I do have the newest version of Orcaslicer though
I will re-sliced it but what specifically seems off about it?
I just know ive had weird issues with models that I didnt reslice after an update.
I live in a green a lush area. We pay for that with a lot of rain. 
Since we are able to print at high speeds, I have started to see moisture effects a lot. Sometimes even from a single particularly wet day. Filament-out-of-calibration, curling, stringing, warping can all be helped somewhat with thorough drying. And if not, at least it can then can be ruled out.
Ok. Sorry for adding so many possibilities. I love puzzles lol.
Flipped an x1c over to compare tensioners and this is what I see. Makes me think your tensioner idler mounting screw has backed out a little until it hit the plastic. The idler sorta looks leaned over too but could just be the pic. Again, probably way off but yet another thing to check. Pics for comparison.
Talking about the silver screw.
Mine.
Yours
When you set tension, do you tighten/pull the mount by hand or let the tensioner spring do the work? I ask because it seems that your tensioner is far tighter than mine. Edit: yours is looser
Like i said above, I have basically the same issue…but a different printer.
I haven’t posted since because I don’t want to add to the confusion.
I was slicing files & decided to click through the slice settings…
until I hit Speed, there I saw banding. You have posted some pics above, but not for Speed…which is why I’m posting now. Meaning this might not be a mechanical issue
