I do not know why you would want to. You will be printing very slow.
If you must, then set all the speeds to something slow.
I tried printing some Bambu PETG with Bambu’s PETG filament profile and it didn’t go to hot…
So I wanted to just slow down and start trying to figure out what I can do to improve things. Is this a bad idea?
• Dried for 12 hours in Eibos
• Only had the top off per Bambu’s Recommendation, door was closed.
• P1P converted to P1S
Limit the max volumetric speed that is the easiest lets say to around 6-8mm3/s and check the print speeds again
Nice drier
Don’t think that is your problem check some of the other threads for calibration , PEI plates , PETG printing and colling profiles
Will do thank you, I didn’t know about that setting limiting VF.
What happened with your box print??? Did it come off the plate?
Did you check the first layer? It looks as though the first layer calibration failed and the filament has printed in mid air for half the model.
Not that I’m aware of no, I had to flex it off the built plate and it appeared to be completely attached to it. It’s like the layers weren’t sticking to one another or something.
Not saying it couldn’t be but I had to flex it off the build plate after it cooled down because it was pretty stuck on there. It looks to me like the layers were adhering to one another or something else.
Yes, it certainly looks strange. You didn’t slice it using a 0.6 profile instead of 0.4 or visa-versa by accident?
Nope I just have my trusty .4 nozzle being the only option, didn’t change or mess with anything other than loading the model and Bambu PETG profile and hit slice and print. Very odd indeed.
To answer your original question: this article might help. I know it helped be a lot with inconsistent walls. It describes what you can do to make sure everything comes out as consistent as possible.
To me this doesn’t look like a tuning issue. Something went massively awry…
Thanks to the link, I just need to figure out the variable that’s causing this to happen. In my opinion there should be zero reason for this to happen when using Bambu’s Profile with Bambu’s filament. I’ll give your link a look to see if it’s got any good suggestions. Thank you.
I do it to get a consistent finish from bottom to top.
And yes, it’s not something you’d want to do if speed is more important than quality.
This does not look like a filament calibration issue to me. The area on the right side is printed pretty cleanly. Everything else is terrible with the worst quality in the left top of the image. The further to the left the print head moved, the less accurately positioned the extrusion was.
I say this is a mechanical issue. Tighten belts, clean rods, check hot-end to make sure it’s not bent/loose.
@RocketSled Not trying to argue your point but the reason it printed like it did on the right so clean was because it’s a 45 degree overhang and the print speed was slower. Full maintenance was done about a week ago and have done probably 10-15 PLA prints prior.
After this snafu I decided to try some overture PETG with the generic PETG profile and although it’s not what I would call “PLA perfect” it at least printed ok.
For now I’ve swapped back to PLA and I need to get back to printing, was just hoping to see Bambu’s PETG “just work” with Bambu’s PETG profile. Maybe I have a filament issue idk.
@ExtremeElementz i am starting to agree with @RocketSled could be belts or mechanical
But Also PETG have a real bad and strange outcomes some times if tunning is bad and yes from bambu should be ok but i would not trust it , i never had a good results with their profile and auto tunning , but never used Bambu PETG , only PLA and PAHT-CF, But also never as bad
EDIT: My favorite starting point 
Forget about auto calibrations, and use orca slicer , at least you will see on each calibration step what is happening , takes around 2 hours. for flow set it to 1.0 and use only pass 2, for PA Tower method
EDIT: Probably worth also checking the nozzle or even replace but that is in the shooting in the dark
I saw your PETG spaghetti picture below, it’s nothing new. Do this:
Add “G29.1 Z0.03” to the end of the filament startup code.(this is the height I found appropriate for my printer, x1c, you may have to bump this up by +.01mm per attempt if you have another gather/fail, eventually the gathering on the nozzle will stop)
Get this: Bambu Nozzle Wiper by Kungpaoshizi - Thingiverse
Set max volumetric speed to 12.
PETG likes to stick to 2 things, itself and the nozzle.
You can’t lay it down or smear it down, it has to be kinda plopped down.
The nozzle will gather anything and everything, and then induce some sort of catastrophic failure.
I can print PETG that’s 100% infilled and I see a visible layer time line that I’d like to get rid of but I think the VF (volumetric flow) is really the culprit here. I think 13m^3 is too high potentially.
I also noticed after the print the nozzle has some nice residual filament I’ll need to clean up.
So things I need to check out
• VF too high from Bambu
• Nozzle licking filament as it prints and attaching it to its nose
• Layer Time is causing visible line in the print
I didn’t feel like dealing with this as I wanted to do some other prints but now you all got me motivated to figure out WTH is going on. LOL. Sadly this is another Bambu Profile I’ve found that doesn’t “just work” out of the box for me.