I calibrated my filament using Orca Slicer, and saved the results in the filament settings, so there should be no need to have the slicer run a calibration again and again at the start of every print. How do I disable it?
you edit out the calibration lines in the machine gcode.
Or just uncheck the “Flow Calibration” Check box when you send the print?
Image from this post about turning off flow calibration.
7 Likes
After hitting “Print”, I just unchecked the box before sending the print:
Orca seems to remember my last choice, so I don’t have to change it with each print, unless I want to.
2 Likes
@Ikraus You don’t bother with bed leveling anymore?
I’ll check the levelling box for just the first print after I turn on the printer, or if I change to a different plate which might be thicker or thinner.
I’ve noticed that even with Bed Leveling turned off, there still seems to be some checking of the bed in the area of the print.
3 Likes
@Ikraus Thanks for the tips!
I’m doing a print now with those two settings unchecked. Unfortunately, the estimated time doesn’t get updated to reflect the time savings… Or maybe it never accounted for those activities in the first place? I’ve never used a stopwatch to check whether the estimate was accurate or not–I just assumed it was.
Mystery solved:
After unchecking the calibration boxes in the send-to-printer dialog box: Rather than revise its time estimate, which is really what it should do, it just jumps ahead in the percentage of the amount it has completed.
1 Like
I can see the benefit of having the flow calibration line but does it have to be in the exact identical location very single time? It is just wearing out the plate. Can it be drawn in a random location for every print? Otherwise, disable it and draw a skirt instead which might be even better.
1 Like
I agree completely. I’d much rather have the purge line as part of a skirt for several reaqsons: 1. It seems largely redundant to have both a purge line and a skirt. and 2. It can sometimes be hard to remove a purge line, because it’s only one layer high, whereas a skirt that’s printed two or three layers high is always much easier to remove.
1 Like
That said, the issue has since become largely (though not entirely) moot for me after I shifted to printing on garolite. Garolite doesn’t seem to wear out in any meaningful sense, and it’s also easier to release even the purge line after it cools down, as compared to a PEI sheet, especially in regards to PETG.
1 Like
As a reference point, I have PEI plates with well over a thousand hours on them with no discernable “wear” in the location of the priming lines.
2 Likes
You might not need to disable calibration entirely! Orca Slicer usually remembers your settings. But if you still see it happening, there are two options:
1- Check the “Flow Calibration” box before slicing. Unchecking it might skip calibration this time.
2- If unchecking doesn’t work, some printers add calibration routines in their startup code. Look for guides on editing your printer’s startup code (gcode) to remove the calibration part, but be careful as messing with this code can cause errors.
I have a new A1 since this weekend, I have the vibration calibration and bed leveling checkboxes unchecked, both on the printer touchscreen and in Bambu Studio. Yet the printer still seems to be doing a vibration calibration and bed leveling before every print. Anybody knows why that is happening or how to disable it?
4 Likes
same problem here. looking for a solution
1 Like
on the A1 unticking those boxes seems to change nothing
2 Likes
In A1 unchecking the boxes “Bed Leveling” and “Flow Dynamics Calibration” right before print does nothing. Since I print small models, calibration for every print is very unproductive. Hence I decided to edit G-Code to avoid this.
You can edit G-code by clicking on “Edit Preset” Next to Printer Name
Make sure Advance section is checked. You can view the Machine start G-code in the 2nd tab.
Comment everything from auto extrude cali start to auto extrude cali end and from bed leveling to bed leveling end
You can optionally comment G-code between mech mode fast check start and mech mode fast check end too.
However, this saved me only 60 seconds of start time. I still need to wait about 3 to 4 minutes to start print.
1 Like
I believe it is “nozzle cleaning” that wears out the plate far quicker than any printing would do, unless you are aggressively scraping off what is printed.
Sorry but is there anyway to turn this off on mobile app?
I need to save gcode to my microSD card and print it from the card. How do I remove flow calibration? Do I really need to edit gcode? 
1 Like