? How to print Identical flat files on top of each using PLA support

Hey folks!

I would like to save time and print a stack of identical PLA flat prints (Printables HoneycombWall grid) separated by a layer of PLA Support filament or PETG.

Do I create an STL file in Autodesk Inventor of multiple identical grids (aligned in Z, of course) and separated by 0.42mm gaps (I’m using 0.6mm nozzle with 0.42mm layer height) and let Bambu Studio fill these gaps with the PLA Support in my AMS?

Or…is there a way to use BambuStudio to stack individual honeycomb grid files (I haven’t figured out how to do this, or is it even possible?).

Thanks so much,

Stu

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In BambuStudio can you adjust the Z on the part you want to raise?

No, it will only keep files on the bed.

Did you try to select several objects and than right-click → Assemble. Afterwards the individual objects are not bound to the bed anymore.

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Hmmmm. I wonder if you could raise the pieces in Cura and export the stl to BambuStudio?

Interesting. that’s is good to know. thank you!

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That’s the ticket!! Thanks so much, Joe !!!

So, I can set each item to the same X&Y world coordinates and simply adjust the Z for the spaces in between.

Now it’s time to experiment with the support layers!

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I can’t speak of stacking prints but I am very experienced with the Honeycomb Wall Grid…

Honeycomb Storage Wall Finally Done! - Other topics / Share your prints - Bambu Lab Community Forum

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Though I may be entirely incorrect, but I would strongly recommend you don’t try to print these stacked. Of everything (non-action figure related) that I have ever printed, these were the biggest challenge to dial in just right so they looked good and were strong enough to take the potential weight. Besides that, the tolerance is pretty tight and if you are off by too much it is a real pain when printing the attachments.

True that!! Was hoping to spew out grids at 1/hr with my new X1-C but have had tolerance issues compared to the MK3 prints I’ve been happy with, although at >2hr a grid.

This is more of a challenge to see if it can be done. The 0.6mm nozzle doesn’t get as tight an angle in the hexes compared to the 0.4mm nozzle.

I was able to print them out at about 1 hr 20 mins by moving to Sport Mode halfway through the print. Again, I may be wrong since I used a .4 nozzle to print all of mine, but I see potential issues using a .6 nozzle. As I said, the tolerances are really tight, and I am not just referring to the grids. All the plugs and inserts that are used to attach the tools and brackets have to be almost perfect or two things will happen.

  1. Once you attach them to the grid, it will be a real pain in the a$$ to remove them.
    -OR-
  2. They will be too small and you won’t be able to keep them in place except for gluing them which obviously commits you to a set placement.

Anyways, its not the grids that take forever to print, its all the inserts, attachments accessories that will take days and days.

Either way, good luck.

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Following as I’m looking at a similar thing. I’m using the honeycomb shape and wanting to stack them. I’m wondering if I can stack the 2 together but apply 1 layer on top of the first snd use the change colour option then use the support filament, then perfectly align the second, hopefully with and easy breakable support separating the 2

@Stu Depending on the details of your honey comb wall plate you may be able to just extrude it in the Z height and use the height modifier to apply your base filament and support material. Of course if your model has different thicknesses etc… then a simple extrusion won’t work.

It does work in the slicer though, but I didn’t try printing it. Don’t see any reason why it wouldn’t work. I’ve done similar things to make the X1 print the same part at different temps.

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I put together a 4-high stack on printables using PLA. There is a single layer of PLA support separating each plate. I only did it for PLA and have yet to test with PETG. PETG is slow for me on the Bambu and it almost makes sense to print each plate individually.

https://www.printables.com/model/405935-hsw-for-bambu-x1c-or-p1p-4-layer-print

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Thanks Alfred! And thanks for the printables link!

Thanks, Overflow! I’ll give that a try!

Please keep us updated. I’m thinking about doing the same thing with a gaming table I’m printing.

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This was a common question when people were printing face shields at the beginning of the CoViD pandemic. There are some good videos out there, such as this one from 3DPN: HOW TO STACK 3D PRINTS in PRUSA SLICER - YouTube

Most anything that applies to PrusaSlicer should apply to Bambu Studio.

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The z-height and stacking of parts in Bambu Studio are maddening, but I figured it out and have stacked the Honeycomb Storage Wall boards with a layer of PETG between them…

  1. To create the “Separation Layer” I used the ‘cut’ operation to keep only the bottom of a HSW board part at the desired layer height, 0.25mm in my case. Then I saved it as a “separation layer” - Close that project.
  2. Start a new project
  3. Open HSW board part STL and align to build plate. To make aligning all parts easier I recommend rounding the X, Y positioning to the nearest whole number (ex: X128, Y142). You will notice the Z-height is 1/2 the height of the part… so the HSW boards are 8mm tall so the Z-height shows “4.00”… this is the source of a lot of irritation that I solved with my Excel formulas.
  4. Under the “Objects” section, right-click and insert “modifier”, choose the “Separation layer” STL file you created in Step 1.
  5. Position the “separation layer” part above the first HSW board by using the “Move” option. This is tricky because of how Bambu Studio uses the midpoint of the parts Z-height as the “center” of the object. Super annoying.
  6. Under the “Objects” tab, right-click on the “Separation Layer” part and choose “change type” - select “Part” from the drop-down menu and thenselect “OK”
  7. Change the filament type of your Separation Layer to something that doesn’t bond to the HSW board part. I’m using a Gold Silk PLA for the boards so I just used some old PETG I had left over to ensure the parts don’t bond together.

If I read the latest Studio Beta release notes correctly, you can now change the mode in which measurements are calculated on the fly.

Do you happen to know the reference * or how to fix it?