Been trying PETG-HF and having the same thing happen. It prints the calibration and prime lines, then never sticks 
I’ve tried upping the plate temp to 75, will keep trying higher temps
What temps are everyone printing pla/ petg using the plate? i just got mine yesterday and so far a bit disappointed. i love the finish, but i had some major warping on my model which pretty much ruined the print. i printed pla at 35c bed temp. I believe they recommend 45c now checking the store page, but they havent released any recommendations for temp that ive found
Low 40’s for PLA+, and 60 for PETG < Working for me at the moment.
I saw a photo of the equivalent plate from Biqu - which had recommended temps engraved on the plate-edge. They were 30-50 for PLA and 50-70 for PETG.
So I was having no adhesion at all but I noticed the calibration strips were almost perfectly cylindrical not squished, like the z-offset was wrong - then I saw this on Reddit: apparently RESUME-ing when you get the Aruco QR code mismatch dialog wrecks the Z-Offset??? This was news to me and makes total sense, trying turning off build plate detection and printing now… fingers crossed…
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PLA printed flawlessly at default, no change (for non BBL filaments I’d just copy the settings from BBL or Generic) I’ve printed in PLA Metal, PLA Silk, PLA Basic, and PLA Matte - it looks great, but I did get some under extrusion
yeah i have noticed this as well. i never saw anyone write about this but everytime theres a plate mismatch or non-detect the z offset goes to ■■■■ and the print doesnt work properly. thought it was just a me thing
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i have a twotrees polyurea plate that is also rated for 30-50 for pla. that actually works flawlessly at 35c and has super strong adhesion. apart from the different textured surface, i dont quite get the usecase for the supertack. its only 10-15c less hot than the textured pei which is super reliable
so long as this PETG-HF job finishes okay, the use case for me is an easier to use Smooth (or near smooth) bed for no-gluestick PETG. My go-to right now is the Lightyer G10, but it requires custom filament profiles, and I get failed prints about 1/20 or so jobs, especially anything with small details without a brim, so if this can handle some of those jobs, which I’m assuming it can since everyone is talking about how well things stick to it, then it’ll be my go-to just maybe… standby 
Just finished my first PLA print with this build plate. Prints come out great with a remarkably smooth finish. I cleaned the plate with dish soap and water before my first print.
My only complaint is that the prints stick too well to the surface. One of my parts ended up chipping as I was removing it, rendering it useless. Definitely want to use a scraper and go slow when removing prints. I tried heating the bed to 50C to remove the parts, but it didn’t seem to help much.
For the slicer setup, I used the latest version of Bambu Studio (v01.10.01.50). And selected the SuperTack plate from the dropdown. At first my printer was complaining that it couldn’t find the marker, but I just unchecked the build plate detection under Device>Print Options as suggested in the wiki and it printed normally.
Overall I’m very happy with the ease of use of this plate, but I may end up switching back to the regular cool plate and glue stick combo for prints that require a smooth surface if I end up spending too much time removing parts.
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My fave has been the regular smooth plate for no-gluestick with PLA.
Out of curiosity what filament had the chip away issue?
I printed a dozen of these very large tissue boxes on it with a variety of BBL and PolyLite PLAs, and didn’t have an issue except some under-extrusion lines showing on the silks and metals.
I used Bambu Lab PLA Matte in the print that had a chip come off. Normally when I want a smooth finish I use the cool plate with some glue stick and I’m able to remove most parts with just my hands. I must’ve used too much force when attempting to free my part.
I printed the part again and gently went around the perimeter of the print with my scraper and I was able to release the part with ease. I think that using a scraper I might run the risk of either damaging the edges of my parts or even the bottom surface if I try to pry with it. I print a lot of parts where the surface quality is especially important, so I’ll have to be a lot more careful about that.
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ooh dang, that’s rough ;_;
oh thank the maker!
so disabling the qr check fixed it, my PETG is printing happily now on two of my X1C’s did a calibration cube to test and here’s the bottom with PETG-HF black. Welp, baring any other surprises, this is replacing my Garolite plates now.
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in case anyone eagle-eyed noticed, those are the stickers for the BIQU Glacier plate in the background, I’ve had 3 fails with it so far, they are NOT the same at all. I haven’t been able to print PolyLite Silk on it and I’ve been trying for a few days, which is why it was the first thing I tried on the SuperTack
well i’ve finally been able to do a couple of prints on the plate, given the feedback around the plate localisation i used it in the P1S instead. pretty happy with it, it has potential, but it can stick a little bit too well sometimes, even after being cool it’s not the easiest to remove some types of surfaces, but all in all, seems like this just might become my new favourite
Finally got mine and gave it a try. PLA is not giving me any issues at all. PETG, on the other hand, has been nothing but problems. I have a cat toy that I find myself printing at least every couple days (because the big hoomans keep stepping on them, not because the cats are breaking them). I can print this on any of my plates (textured, smooth, WhamBam carbon, Bambu effects sheets) and with any safe filament (PLA, PETG, TPU, TPE) with no issues ever. On this SuperTack plate, however, the first 4 prints with PETG failed to adhere to the plate (the first ever failures on this print). I ultimately had to give it a 20mm brim to get it to stick enough to finish a print. Next one with PLA worked just like normal with no brim.
I’m doing a few random prints over the next couple days each with PLA and PETG to compare, but if the first round is any indication I won’t be using it for anything but PLA.
Other than that, I’m not totally convinced that the material it’s made out of is very durable. The first nozzle cleaning spot stripped completely off on the first use. Obviously it was going to go, which is perfectly normal, but I guess I’m just more accustomed to it going over time rather than all at once. The second spot (an A1 touches one spot at the beginning of cleaning and then a second spot beside that first one at the end of cleaning) is only partially gone but it’s bubbled up at the spot as well as around it (the nozzle heats up while in contact with that spot). Obviously, when that spot lets go it’s going to pull adjacent material off with it. Makes me wonder what’s going to happen if the plate ever gets a tiny nick in the surface - my guess is it will begin to peel and quickly become unusable.
These plates appear to be slightly favouring horror stories than successful ones.
It seems the phrase they used at launch “The go to plate” is sounding ironic at the moment.
for PLA it’s alright, you should definitely give it a go, don’t order 4 though, test one out first to see if you like it 
Had my first failed PLA print on it today. All 4 corners of a flat surface peeled up to the point that it repeatedly knocked the nozzle out of whack and it had to realign, until I finally just aborted it. This was with Inland Marble PLA with the plate at 35C. I started it again at 45C, but had to abort it again at layer 4 when the first corner began to peel up. Tried the print on the textured PEI plate just to make sure it wasn’t a problem somewhere other than the plate, and it had no problems.
Was really hoping this one would work on it so I could get a smooth top (prints face down) as every other plate I have either leaves a texture or marks of some kind (Wham Bam leaves a slight pattern and my smooth PEI leaves blemishes from where the nozzle touches the plate for bed leveling).
So far on this plate with PLA I’ve had 2 fails and 3 successes. With PETG I’ve had 4 fails and 1 success (only by adding a 20mm brim). I’m pretty sure my 6 total failed prints on this plate are more than all the other failed prints I’ve ever had combined in 5 months of printing.
If it keeps up at this rate I may have to try to just cover this thing with blue painter’s tape, as I’ve printed several things on tape just to see what it was like and actually never had a failure with it yet.
that’s odd i’ve not had those issues with PLA, i’ve already printed a few large flat pieces on it and i’m printing another one as we speak 220x150, no issues at all, i did clean it before first use, did you also do it?
edit/ btw i’m using it at 45C