Yeah, I washed it with Dawn soap and water - the same way I clean all my plates - before the first use. Following Bambu’s recommendations, though, I haven’t cleaned it since then since it has no obvious residues or anything on it.
I may try giving it another cleaning anyway and see what happens. My other PLA prints were actually quite small and held at 35, but nothing like what you see in the demo video or anything as it required no substantial effort to remove them. This is the first large print I’ve tried, and even though the corners peeled up the middle was stuck down quite well at both 35 and 45.
yeah give it another go, this print i had going finished a little while ago, and even after letting cool down completely it was really sticking in there, even a bit too much lol, not the easiest to pull out
I’ve only printed PTEG (70 degrees) on mine so far. On the plate right after cleaning the only issue I had was that it stuck too well, and was an absolute pain to get the print (9 bracelet beads back right of the place) to release. As I was only printing in a small area I tried a second print (90 bracelet beads front half of the plate) in a different area without flipping or cleaning the plate, and had adhesion issues in one section. Flipped the plate and performed a last print (25 bracelet beads in the middle of the plate) with no issues.
Going to try a PLA print today at 45 degrees, so fingers crossed!
If anyone has suggestions on getting prints off the plate safely, please don’t be shy!
So apparently this plate and I are just not going to get along with each other.
I’m still experimenting with all the different brands of PETG in general, trying to find the one I like the best since I don’t like Bambu’s PETG-HF at all. Yesterday my roll of Polymaker PolyLite PETG arrived, so I dried it last night and started testing it out today. Of course, I grabbed up the SuperTack plate for the first test.
One of the things I print for comparison is basically just a letter “H” which I then throw in the oven standing on its side to see how much heat it can take before it starts to droop.
Here’s a side by side of my “H” comparing the print on the SuperTack plate and a reprint on the Smooth PEI plate. I reprinted it on the Smooth plate because it warped so badly on the SuperTack I was no longer confident it would even be a fair comparison in the oven with something that wasn’t warped. It did stay on the plate long enough to finish, but it was only holding in the very middle by the time it was done. The SuperTack plate was at 50C. The Smooth PEI was at 70C. Everything else was the same.
I’m not giving up yet, though. Everyone else seems to love this thing, but for the life of me I can’t figure out why. So far it seems like everything this plate can do one of my other plates can do FAR better. I hope that with maybe enough tweaking I can find a sweet spot somewhere in there.
The ability to purchase these plates in the U.K. is a joke.
I had them in my basket on the launch day and they were removed before I hit checkout.
They announced they would be back in stock on or before the 26th.
On Friday I received an email telling me they were back in stock. I clicked through immediately and they had none in stock.
Still said 26th.
Today I checked again, it now says the 3rd of December, coincidentally the last day of the sale and given the sale ends at 8am U.K. time on the 3rd, almost certainly after the sale ends.
So, I can’t say how my four supertack plates are going.
Got mine turn up today, UK. Have not tried PLA yet but PETG is really bad. Ends up like a mess of hot glue. Waiting for someone to find unicorn settings.
Maybe it is your filament. I have been using the Bambu Lab marble PLA, both the red granite and the white marble. Neither has ever failed in such a fashion, regardless of build plate. I don’t think that I have ever had a problem with them.
When I first laid my new SuperTack plate down and ran a cleaning cloth across its surface, I was met with a great deal of resistance, almost as if the cloth was sticking to the plate. The first print I tried stuck so tightly to the plate that I thought I might destroy the plate removing the print. That is about the time that I realized that I hadn’t changed the settings in Bambu Studio. My printer thought that it was printing on a PEI smooth plate and its higher temperature. After correcting the settings, the plate has worked very well. I have been printing very small parts, the type where I tend to print multiples because a few always fail. With the SuperTack plate I have not had to use the skip function.
I disabled build plate detection, and now PETG Basic is printing.
(I have washed the plate with soap after the first failure, that made no difference at all.)
I wonder how many people are going to buy their first printer and this awesome new build plate and be like, WTF, this is the best printer on the market that “just works”?
I know it was not mentioned nether recommented at all by BBL,
but has anybody tested materials like ASA, PA or PC on this pate.
it should resist till 120° bed temperature.
Well, just tried PLA, freshly dried (dried for different unrelated reasons). Supports stuck to the bed well, but the model itself came off during print. The model base is not very thick, so it’s not supposed to stick super strongly, but it’s PLA and super tack! Oh well.
At present, the QR code recognition algorithm of the Bambu Cool Plate SuperTack is being continuously optimized, and the printers involved are X1, X1C and X1E. For X1 series users, it is recommended to disable the build plate position detection feature first and wait for the firmware update. If you do not turn off automatic identification and click Continue Printing after the printer reports an error, problems such as the first layer not sticking or spaghetti may occur.
