Not great. First prints (Bambu PLA) did not stick at all. Turned off plate detection, washed the plate (washing up liquid and cold water); no improvement. Watched Clough42’s YouTube video about the plate, and turned bed temperature up to 55º; prints stick no problem.
However, now finding that prints will overwhelm the magnets, so prints stick, but the PLATE is bending up at the edges! Had hoped this plate would help with printing a large (230x100mm, 5mm thick base) solid (100% infill) part, but looks like that will just bend the plate. For the small, solid parts I’m printing (18mm long, 5mm wide, 15mm tall), I’ve had to reduce the number per print to 4, even though there’s room for 16 on the bed, to make sure the magnets can cope.
And as I write this, two of the parts have come un-stuck at one end about 30% of the way through the print; print stopped. Getting very tired of wasting filament. Have gone back to textured PEI with some print in place tabs at either end as I have an order to fill and am now running out of time!
The marker is placed where it should be. I glued a printed one over the original one and it works.
I think that the color of the QR code is the problem, the same problem happens with Biqu Panda:
“BIQU Panda BuildPlate Designer Series Dual-textured 3D Printing Build Plate with Honeycomb & Houndstooth Patterns”.
I did experience one print failure on the A1 mini with PETG. The mini set the bed temp to 35C but my oversized chamber was set to 40C. The ambient air was warmer than the plate and the print just curled right up and was pushed off.
I know Bambu doesn’t recommend a chamber, but my printers are in the basement and the ambient temp gets down to 10C. For the reprint, I set the bed temp to 70C and turned off the active chamber temp controls. It’s going to get cold tonight so, we’ll see what happens.
To test the plate by itself (without the mini), I threw it into my DIY big printer and it works like a charm. This is PLA, cold bed, 65F (18C) ambient air temp. Bed adhesion is crazy.
I am finding the plate great for PLA. But, I am having similar marks in my plate after multiple prints. Once the “cracks” get a bigger, they will show up in the surface of the print. Has anyone seen suggestions on how to fill in/smooth out the cracks?
I’ve also had the bottom layer delaminate with supertack. I like the lower temp and the lighter texture but I miss the convenience of having parts self release with cooling.
I ordered 3 at once instead of trying one, like an idiot.
I had the same issue today. My issue was drying with paper towel after wash and left fuzz.
I wash with dish soap and dried it with a micro fabric cloth. It finally sticked.
Give this a try and tell how it worked.
I have been having a great experience with the supertack plate for PLA, though it failed a couple of PETG prints. For me, this is okay as I feel I haven’t really had problems with PETG on PEI. I did notice some potential material loss (shadow of object left behind) when removing the PETG, but none so far with PLA. The supertack worked out of the box without cleaning, for PLA, for me so far.
I bought this plate specifically for large PLA prints that cover almost the entire build plate, and I use it with a set of bed clips that I got with the Juupine “TK99” plate on Ali to keep the plate edges down no matter what. (slight adjustment to the rear purge line in start gcode to avoid the rear right clip).
The first thing I did was print a large gridfinity drawer holder (4x5x6U x3 drawers) and set of drawers, and got the least edge lifting/cleanest prints I have gotten with any other configuration, including using VM Nanopolymer adhesive on the textured and smooth PEI plates.
I am going to use the supertack for pretty much all PLA prints from now on, and we will see if it lasts. It is a little pricey right now, but I am extremely pleased with its performance on full bed PLA prints
Using heat bed temperature of 50ºc is producing good results. The small parts I am printing are coming out very reliably, with no lifting. I’m using mouse ears on one of them which needs to be printed on its side (the part is a solid “beam” 5mm wide, 18mm tall, and 185mm long, so can produce quite a bit of pull on the bed, which rather tests the bed adhesion…). Printing 3 of these at a time; would like to do more, but I found spacing them out makes sure the magnets hold so the plate doesn’t detach from the print bed.
Have also printed a set of 3 boxes using a SuperTack bed on my Mini; they stayed stuck down nicely (2mm walls, 50mm tall, base is 70x60mm); same print lifted quite a bit on the textured PEI plate, so pleased with that result
Key seems to be giving the plate a good clean (soap and water, drying with a tea-towel (cotton)), and a bit more print bed temperature.
So I have an A1 mini and only printed PLA so far, but within those limits, the build plate is working fine for me.
Yes, I can only get the prints off of the plate by using the scraper. But I printed an 18cm high object today and even removed the brim defined in the 3mf, and it came out perfectly.
It’s my go-to plate for anything with a small footprint now.
When I printed PETG on Supertack using the default profiles, it sets the bed temp at 70C. I noticed the adhesion is pretty low. Even if things don’t fail, removing them at the end of the print is so trivial that they practically lift off with no resistance. However, if I’m not around when the print finishes and the bed cools down to 40C to below, I’m having a heck of a time removing the print.
This gave me an idea… I changed the bed temperature to 50C and 40C, but oddly, it seems it didn’t stick well enough to even make a successful first layer. this is confusing, but I ended up leaving the first layer temp at 70C and setting subsequent layers to 40C. This seems to work great so far.
After print completion, to avoid unnecessary damage/wear to the bed, I like to manually raise the bed temp to 70C again while I gently pull up on the print… Just as the temp reaches above 60C, it simply releases from the bed with very little force. It’s great!
Should I get the plate or not? I’ve been using the Panda CryoGrip Pro for 3 weeks now and I’m pretty enthusiastic about it, not one failure so far. No matter whether large or small parts. Everything with PLA sticks to it like hell.
With a bed temperature of 35° I can keep the lid closed. This not only saves electricity costs - I also have less noise and air pollution.
I wanted to get the ‘original’ from my printer manufacturer as a second option - but the experiences here seems pretty mixed.
I’m currently printing a few challenging parts with a 0.2mm nozzle on a P1P and specifically bought SuperTack for this project. My experience has been mixed. When objects stick to the plate, they adhere very well, just as many in this thread have described. However, I often encounter warping issues, especially with parts that have sharp edges, regardless of whether they are big or small.
I HAVE to add mouse ears to such parts; otherwise, they warp significantly, which kind of defeats the purpose of using the SuperTack for me.
When it arrived, I cleaned it with soap and hot water, but not with alcohol. I tried air drying, and drying with paper towels, but neither made a difference. I also printed a few large parts on the plate, so it can’t be a “burn-in period” or anything like that. I use the correct build plate settings in Bambu Studio.
Considering small parts with sharp edges still don’t work without mouse ears or a brim, I can’t see myself continuing to use SuperTack as my go-to build plate. Removing supports, especially mouse ears, is such a hassle. Pretty disappointed.
When I got the P1P, I never had such issues with the textured PEI plate and the 0.4mm nozzle. The idea of just adding mouse ears to problematic parts, which I apparently have to do with the SuperTack anyway, and having them come off cleanly after the textured plate cools down is much more appealing than this.
I would say not if you are happy with the Panda versions. I have about 30 of the supertacks and have only been motivated enough to open 3 of them after using them a few times. The polyurea plates just seem to always work.
I really thought this would work, I tried printing first layer at 70c and the rest at 40c but came off the plate after the 2nd layer. I did wash the plate with dish soap and air dry. My previous print was with all defaults at 70c bed temp and printed fine.
Still working out for me, but I haven’t done any large prints on the Supertack yet.
The bed cools down very slowly, so unless the bottom of your model is extremely large, you definitely wouldn’t have been much below 70C by the second layer, right?
