That’s a no from me.
I’ll be a bit controversial:
Anyone with experience printing PETG knows that using a glue stick on a PEI build plate isn’t a mistake—it’s often the preferred approach. The glue acts as a release layer, making prints much easier to remove, especially when dealing with multiple small tree supports.
Some PETG filaments don’t just stick well to PEI—they stick so good that removing the print is impossible. A simple Elmer’s glue stick works perfectly. Apply a thin coat, and it will last for several prints. If you don’t like the appearance of a PEI plate with a light layer of glue on it, you can use 20$ Bambu’s liquid glue instead. It performs the same function and is virtually invisible on the plate.
I don’t see it as controversial at all. It’s my SOP.
When my PEI plates started losing grip with PLA I started using glue. It helps hold little bits down that for me just won’t print right without it and I print everything using glue just to avoid failed prints.
I saw it recommended to use glue with PETG and have yet to have it cause any problems. On the contrary, I’ve seen where others who don’t use glue with PEI and PETG even pull up part of the PEI where glue puts an upper limit on how hard things stick down. If needed, warm water can also be used to help glue let go with no damage to models or build plates.
Some don’t like it, but when I’m investing hours and lots of filament in a model, it sure seems cheap insurance to prevent simple failures.
I wonder if I’m doing something wrong, Using Bambu glue or hair spray with PETG I always get discoloration that I cant wash off.
I wonder if that might be texture you’re seeing maybe? On smooth plates glue stick can leave visible ridges that get replicated in the model surface. Some smooth out the glue I think to minimize that. With liquid glue the coating is much more even with fewer or no ridges.
Can’t comment on hairspray as never used it, but I’ve never had color issues myself with liquid or stick glue. Any particular filaments you see this with?
First print after applying it seems I dont notice so much unless I compare to something printed with no glue, after the first print I can splotches? like a lighter color.
Do you rinse the part off where the print touches the glue? I end up with light areas on print plates where the models touch and sometimes light areas on the models too when dark or black though you can pretty much always feel it, but it washes right off.
Could it just be glue? But other than that no explanation. If the glue you are using is particularly strong, maybe it’s doing something like the plastic itself does when it sticks down super hard?
But the only blotchy areas I’ve experienced have just been glue residue that rinses right off. Sorry not more help.
I’m just speaking generally - the colors I’ve printed in PETG have been light for heat/sun resistance and I haven’t seen glue on those but I can feel it being very slimy/slippery when I wash it off and that goes away when the glue does. I think I’ve only seen the blotches with PLA.
I have tried to clean it off with no luck, even aggressive scrubbing with a brush doesn’t get it, I have quit using glue on PETG because of it, It is always on dark filaments that I see it.
I’ll look for it. I was thinking about it and the darkest I have printed is green PETG HF but it didn’t do that that I remember.
Have you seen it with the new PETG Basic or is that with PETG HF or something else?
Have you tried heat? Thats what usually works for me, just have to be careful.
I tried my little micro torch, never tried a heat gun .
I think my problem it seems is a lot of the stuff I use PETG for the part on the build plate is the top of the part.
I print a lot of bambu petg hf with the textured build plate. The reason i use glue stick is because petg sticks so well, my parts get defects trying to remove them without first prepping the surface.
For consistency, I’ve gotten my workflow down based on other’s approaches. Wash with soap then use bambu glue stick then print. After applying glue stick, smooth it out with wet paper towel. Do this - Every time.
I print a lot of stuff with lettering on the first layer and if built plate not proper I’ll get a defects such as lettering coming up. I rotate out 2 build plates. And while i may clean the build plate in advance, i don’t apply the glue stick until right before printing otherwise it may cure and cause issue. After so many prints I’ll flip to the other side of the plates. One more thing…. When printing a lot of identical parts, I’ll move their position on the build plate because printing the same object over and over in the same area causes inconsistent layer adhesion.
Using bambu glue stick smoothed out with wet paper towel I get no discoloration on first layer. If i use too much glue there might be a glue residue, but water or alcohol wipes it right up.
Hope this helps someone as we all learn together.
One more comment. I haven’t used bambu petg basic yet - as another has mentioned the semi gloss finish turns me off. Hope bambu releases a petg basic matte.
much stronger then HF but glossy.
That’s fair - if added strength is needed. My functional parts have been adequate with HF. Hoping for a basic matte release.
My experience with PETG Basic on a X1 Carbon is not the best. In my opinion, the quality of the printed parts is really bad and I tend to change to another filament supplier.
What’s really driving my nuts is, I have a kind of key-lock, that consists of a ring that moves along a cylinder and depending on whether it’s in closed or open position, it pushed pins out through the ring, or it pulls them back in. Printing that model several times in different dimension, I had no issues with PETG-HF. Everything is running smoothly. Also right out of the box without drying.
With PETG Basic now (also in dried condition), it feels like the single parts really stick together. When you get every part of the lock to move more or less free as it should, it still takes a lot of effort to move the the lock to open or close position. It partially feels like it’s stuck in the middle. So the tolerances to not fit anymore and it makes some really bad squeeky noise when moving.
On other parts that are also related to the key-lock (the parts that get locked into a certain position), it seems like there is underextrusion at the seam positions. But not on the whole part, but only sectionwise for e.g. about 1-2 cm then it is ok again and starts to show some underextrusion effects again.
Did some of you have to dial-in/calibrate the profile for PETG-Basic in Bambu Studio?
I go through about 10-20 rolls per week of PETG and been working with the new PETG Basic since it came out. I’m having a LOT of issues with it in all colours using both a 0.6mm (and to a lesser extent) 0.4mm nozzle on H2S, X1C and P1S machines. I’ve used both the PETG HF and previous basic and they performed pretty much flawlessly using the stock Bambu profiles. With the new PETG I have extrusion issues galore - random poor surface quality where it’s not extruding cleanly, corners drag and a lot more oozing than the old filament leaving blobs on the printed part. I believe the issues come from inadequate melting of the filament and shrinkage of the plastic once deposited. To remedy this I’ve had to increase the nozzle temperature from 255/245 in the stock settings to 260. Additionaly I find slowing the printing speed/flow rate down to about half of the stock value helps. These changes have helped but not eliminated the issues.
I think the new PETG Basic is a step backward for Bambu. Until now it’s been great value for the money and my ‘go to’ PETG, but it’s causing more issues than other brands now.
It sure is. I hate two materials from BL. One of them is PETG Basic (OG pile of trash) and ASA. I guess reinvented PETG Basic goes right in there too, in that pile of horrible filament.