Jessies H2D review/testing(ongoing)

[StreetSports]

Disclaimer: Due to the way my weird brain works, this will be an ongoing thread. Ill be updating this 1st post as I try or learn new things .Hence the massive amount of edits. There will be useful posts by me and other users in below comments, so worth reading on. Also, Im going blind, so bear with me on all the typos. Check back from time to time for new info

I am running beta firmware. And a Amazon.com: SAMSUNG FIT Plus USB 3.2 Flash Drive, 512GB USB Standard Type-A, Speeds Up to 400MB/s / 110MB/s, Portable Storage Memory Stick, Durable Thumb Drive Backward Compatible with USB 2.0, MUF-512AB/AM : Electronics

All packages and both printers came undamaged and setup went flawless. Both printers shipped sokner than estimated. Everything screams high quality and smellls like a new wet suit.

Right now, I have one ams going to one nozzle(white tube). This will be used to hold support materials for pla, petg and abs. Ill use the 4th slot for my main color when/if doing multicolor. Then I have 2 ams going to the other nozzle(grey tube) and the TPU tube (clear tube) going to the side spool holder.
The Tube holder used here is H2D TPU PTFE tube bracket by Viva la vidaMakerWorld: Download Free 3D Models Printed in ABS-GF grey

The camera live view and especially timelapse are both crisp and smooth.
2 small prints used almost 8gb somehow lol

zero issues with the wifi. Liveview pops up fast at a pretty decent frame rate. Files transfer noticably faster than the x1c. 2-3 seconds with my router downstairs. My X1c’s like to pause at 70% for 10 seconds. I live in a congested area and have over 30 things connected to my wireless network

The large air purifier is 64db at 100% and 52db at 50%. Its pretty loud, but it is what it is if you want to
burn things in your home. It comes with 2 extra 1st stage filters.The external filter duct goes over the same exhaust output thats used for cooling the chamber. And it works great still at keeping chamber temps low at low rpm on the internal fan and the external fan turned off, while filtering the exhaust by forcing it through the external filter. As an added bonus, the external duct and tube, muffle the exhaust fan of the printer. So with an external filter and the internal filter installed, all filament exhausts are filtered. I smell zero ABS while using the internal filter only. I dont currently have a way of testing it. It would be super beneficial to set the rear exhaust to 100% for a few minutes at the end of abs/asa/nylon/pc prints to completely clear the chamber fumes through the external filter(if you choose to buy or make one)

Heat up times are better than any printer ive tested.
The chamber heater would heat up even faster if they slowed the fan down a little. Would also make the heater silent. Its the loudest thing in the printer besides the poop chute. A slower fan would allow the heater itself to heat up faster too.
Starting temp 28c on 120 volt
Bed to 90c. 1:12
Chamber to 60c. 15:22
Chamber to 65c. 17:29
Nozzle to 220c. 0:47
Nozzle to 300c. 1:09

Theres plenty of room to add a right side aux fan. The left side aux fan looks like they changed to a side fed blower fan instead of front fed. Less chance of getting something stuck in it or catching a finger tip.

No light flickering or popped breakers. Edit: The breaker did pop. Longer explanation is 2 posts below this one.

I noticed while loading tpu behind abs, it purges at abs print temps. Pretty smart.

Bambu ABS (non cf) stress test. Doubles as a vfa test.
No warp or adhesion loss and I havnt even cleaned the plate since I opened it. No brim or glue used. Top surfaces look beautiful even without ironing. And again with no custom filament or profile tunes. This is what I get “out of the box”

More Abs using ABS support material on 90° overhangs only. This is why the overhangs dont look so hot.

Polymaker PC transparent using tree supports and no interface material. They are full supports and that why the overhangs are nice.

TPU printed at generic pla speeds

Bambu H2d printing Generic Tpu at high speeds

Took about an hour and a half with 3 walls, 5 top and bottom layers and 10% 3d honeycomb infill. From Giantarm Transparent TPU. Its more clear in a blue light

Combined 95a TPU with PETG-CF. Air duct quick connect male end.

Model found here

90 Degree Laser Smoke Hood Adapter for H2D by Clough42MakerWorld: Download...

And the other half. Only thing I changed is adding a tpu mating surface. Ill put a coating of ptfe oil on the 2 tpu surfaces.

23 minute benchy in Bambu charcoal PLA. (My favorite Bambu PLA). The benchy looks great. The centauri carbon is the only other printer ive had print such a nice hull line out of the box. This was with no filament tune and filament that hasnt been dried in 2 months even. Printed on ludicrous
mode.

Laser stuff
Cant start any laser operations without holding the top right button down.

To see what its doing, it plays crisp video right on the machines lcd screen.

The birds eye view camera makes placing the etch in the perfect spot super easy. Drag, drop and stretch to fit.

And its so fast(40w). This took a little over 2 minutes and left no smell behind.

7 minutes at 50% power

Sacrificed a cool plate to the cause. Took 33 minutes. Still no visible dust in the printer.

You could definitely etch a company logo onto a plate for transfering to prints. Probably qr codes and bar codes too.

Bambu Lab H2D laser etching stainless steel.

Ill add to this thread as I go, but I highly doubt I’ll find many flaws. The only ones ive found so far is that the top glass is painted black on the laser edition and the estop mounting is nonexistent, so when you move the machine, it falls off. Not exactly a deal breaker. They should have also made a nice way of mounting 4 to 1 couplers.

Edit: Im now getting live view camera calibration failures. The original calibration before this last firmware update did pass though. Ive read that it could be a loose cable or possibly the firmware update caused it.

[Asynchronism]

Great info, thanks for putting that together.

[Asynchronism]

How’s the ABS test going? This is one of my primary material applications.

[JGrimm]

Great review. The abs parts are looking good!

[Qjo]

I’m willing to bet it’s the plus 4 causing the light to flicker. When I had mine, anytime I used the chamber heater the lights flickered. The pwm cycle time is off for our 110/120v power grid. In your printer.cfg, add a line by itself under [heater_generic chamber] that reads pwm_cycle_time:0.02088

It’ll stop the flickering. Make sure the max power is 0.4 or else the power draw gets funky. It should already be at 0.4 though.

[philch]

When you have some time, try to perform some ironing with any filament, can’t manage to do it on H2D whatever tweaking I make in speed, flow, temperature, fans etc… I could make it sort of work on small sample plates but as soon as I try a real size model, it fails, not just the quality but it starts pulling the layer off as it irons and end up with terrible surface.

[Zammer3D]

@StreetSports

I might need a shelf like that… did you buy it or make it?

[Zammer3D]

It’s fine to dislike Bambu, but attacking the print quality with no reason isn’t cool

If you’re talking about that overhang, it was printed without supports…

[NoahKatz]

@StreetSports

Updated with ABS, Polycarbonate snd TPU results

Would you mind just adding a new post for your new info?

When we return to a thread, we’re automatically taken to the last post we viewed, so it saves us from having to scroll back and find the new info.

Thanks

[Josh-3D]

@StreetSports

Got the ams units power supplies wiring cleaned up.

This is a satisfying setup

[BaIto]

You are way more experienced than I am, and I’m sure you know this already… But just in case.

I’m not surprised you are popping breakers. I have seen as high as 1.53kw on initial startup with my H2D I just got last night. The heater seems to pull roughly ~700w, and the bed pulls just about the same. Add nozzle heating or other power draws from the printer, voltage sag depending on the size of your house wiring, and you’re already flying close to the sun on a 15A breaker. Add anymore load to that and you’re going to have a bad day(as you already have unfortunately). I am printing the T-Pose AMS holder right now, and printing watts seems to be around 350, with very periodic, split second spikes to 1kw when the bed or chamber is kicking off and on trying to maintain temp.

Again, I don’t mean to insult your intelligence, as there is already threads discussing the power draw, but I just wanted to point it out.

[Jupitor87]

what amp breaker are you using

[Qjo]

I haven’t even used my chamber heater yet and the bed & nozzle alone are pulling 1600w according to my Kasa smart plug. I may have to grab another device to verify.

[spinlokd]

Few things I’m curious about:

• how dirty it gets after laser cutting
• did you buy the air purifier because you couldn’t vent it outside?
• do printed parts smell like burnt wood / leather if printer was used for laser before
• have you tried some of the softer tpus, like 80A? Since you like a challenge, what about sub-80A TPU?
• have you tried slow ramp up bed temp to prevent breakers from going pop?

[StreetSports]

@BaIto
Yeah, most power hungry printer ive used. No insult taken. Thanks for sharing info that some may not already have.

@Jupitor87 15 amp/ 120 volt. I may change it to a 20 amp if the electrician says I have enough service for it. And proper wiring and outlets.

@spinlokd Ill probably try the laser tomorrow, but I only plan on etching metals with it, on rare occasions

I have some 85a to try but havnt yet.

I can vent outside, but I live in a U.S. suburb that was built in the last 5 years, so you could pee on your neighbors porch from your own porch. And an HOA, so didnt want karen complaints. As a bonus, my pla, petg and tpu fumes are being forced through the external filter too.

I havnt tried to slowly ramp the bed. Ive only popped the breaker while using the chamber heater at the same time. And only while also doing initial heat up on an x1c bed(after moving the robot mop to a new circuit). Im positive it wont work with the k2 plus or plus 4 running their chamber heaters at the same time. It tries to initially heat the bed and chamber simultaniously.

Still going to do the ironing tests, it was messed up when the power went out. I also had to get some sleep.

Also received the other h2d, so ill have to be smarter about how I start prints. Only preheating one at a time and probably never using the chamber heater in both at the same time. Please give us an update with power options, bambu. It would have been awesome if it pulled power based on voltage drop, so it could regulate itself(if this makes sense. Im not an electrician)

[riposod]

So you said there’s zero smell with ABS with the built in filter only? I’ve been wanting to print ABS with my H2D but don’t have the means to exhaust externally. I also know zero smell doesn’t mean zero danger though.

[StreetSports]

Funny story. Been trying for hours to print a 85A TPU benchy. After the first try, I realized I was using a HF nozzle and it wasnt compatible. Now I just figured out that I cant apply the 85a profile because the slicer is smarter than me and knows Im not using .6 nozzles. Guess I cant try that yet.

Her is what the .4 hf nozzle gave me though.

Ill do a 95a benchy but cant do the 85a yet.

[StreetSports]

Left is normal and right is ironed. The ironed side is smooth to the touch but the non ironed side looks great too. Could have used a tiny bit higher flow rate.
PLA

And here is some ironed ABS-GF. Guessing the lighter colored dots are GF

[Leonilian]

Is it just me or does ironing almost always look worse? IDK if it’s the lighting or something but in the first picture the one on the left looks so much better. The second picture looks better though

[StreetSports]

Yes. It just makes it smooth to the edge. It does look much better in person. Can hit it with a torch to bring its shine back. For some reason PC-CF looks amazing after ironing though. Im doing some petg hf ironing now.