Jessies H2D review/testing(ongoing)

[Jupitor87]

what amp breaker are you using

[Qjo]

I haven’t even used my chamber heater yet and the bed & nozzle alone are pulling 1600w according to my Kasa smart plug. I may have to grab another device to verify.

[spinlokd]

Few things I’m curious about:

• how dirty it gets after laser cutting
• did you buy the air purifier because you couldn’t vent it outside?
• do printed parts smell like burnt wood / leather if printer was used for laser before
• have you tried some of the softer tpus, like 80A? Since you like a challenge, what about sub-80A TPU?
• have you tried slow ramp up bed temp to prevent breakers from going pop?

[StreetSports]

@BaIto
Yeah, most power hungry printer ive used. No insult taken. Thanks for sharing info that some may not already have.

@Jupitor87 15 amp/ 120 volt. I may change it to a 20 amp if the electrician says I have enough service for it. And proper wiring and outlets.

@spinlokd Ill probably try the laser tomorrow, but I only plan on etching metals with it, on rare occasions

I have some 85a to try but havnt yet.

I can vent outside, but I live in a U.S. suburb that was built in the last 5 years, so you could pee on your neighbors porch from your own porch. And an HOA, so didnt want karen complaints. As a bonus, my pla, petg and tpu fumes are being forced through the external filter too.

I havnt tried to slowly ramp the bed. Ive only popped the breaker while using the chamber heater at the same time. And only while also doing initial heat up on an x1c bed(after moving the robot mop to a new circuit). Im positive it wont work with the k2 plus or plus 4 running their chamber heaters at the same time. It tries to initially heat the bed and chamber simultaniously.

Still going to do the ironing tests, it was messed up when the power went out. I also had to get some sleep.

Also received the other h2d, so ill have to be smarter about how I start prints. Only preheating one at a time and probably never using the chamber heater in both at the same time. Please give us an update with power options, bambu. It would have been awesome if it pulled power based on voltage drop, so it could regulate itself(if this makes sense. Im not an electrician)

[StreetSports]

My Bambu Lab

Breaker just popped again while printing tpu in one h2d and doing high temp bed leveling on the other. No chamber heater even running. And no other printers running. Running a beefy extension cord to another circuit now. Ordering 2 ups units soon. I wonder how efficient the power supplies are. Maybe swapping to a meanwell could help 5%. Also need some cool plates asap

Edit. Printing tpu in one and pla in the other, on the same circuit, does not pop the breaker. The problem really comes down to the 1st bed heater stage. Heating to 55c from 40c doesnt cause issues, but heating to 90c-100c from 28c does.

[riposod]

So you said there’s zero smell with ABS with the built in filter only? I’ve been wanting to print ABS with my H2D but don’t have the means to exhaust externally. I also know zero smell doesn’t mean zero danger though.

[StreetSports]

Exactly, I cant smell it, but for sure its there. I also smoke cigarettes, so my sense of smell may not be the best judge. I would still always run a good prrifier in the room, if you plan on sitting in it and printing tons of any filament.

The filter is also brand new still. Comically larger than the x1 or p1 filter

[StreetSports]

Funny story. Been trying for hours to print a 85A TPU benchy. After the first try, I realized I was using a HF nozzle and it wasnt compatible. Now I just figured out that I cant apply the 85a profile because the slicer is smarter than me and knows Im not using .6 nozzles. Guess I cant try that yet.

Her is what the .4 hf nozzle gave me though.

Ill do a 95a benchy but cant do the 85a yet.

[StreetSports]

Left is normal and right is ironed. The ironed side is smooth to the touch but the non ironed side looks great too. Could have used a tiny bit higher flow rate.
PLA

And here is some ironed ABS-GF. Guessing the lighter colored dots are GF

[Leonilian]

Is it just me or does ironing almost always look worse? IDK if it’s the lighting or something but in the first picture the one on the left looks so much better. The second picture looks better though

[StreetSports]

Yes. It just makes it smooth to the edge. It does look much better in person. Can hit it with a torch to bring its shine back. For some reason PC-CF looks amazing after ironing though. Im doing some petg hf ironing now.

[BaIto]

I can confirm there is a smell. Yesterday I decided to print the AMS T-pose bracket while I was WFM. Got a headache after about 2 hours. Walked out of my room for 15 minutes (ish), walked back in and was slapped with strong ABS smell. I had been nose blind to it I guess before lol.

I didn’t block the poop chute, so maybe that has something to do with it. Idk.

[philch]

Thank you, you did not need to use this big a sample You think it’s good? I think it’s awful compared to what I get from my P1S. It’s even worse when you had some thickness to the part and more importantly holes in it.

I think the issues apart from ironing settings are the aux fan which is blowing too much and especially the top panel fresh air entry for the exhaust fan which is giving awful results on ironing. I performed some testings setting aux fan to 50% and exhaust fan off right after printing starts and results are better (still bad but improved).

Here is what I get on P1S vs. the best I can get on H2D (P1S is all default except 30% flow rate).

[StreetSports]

@philch

That second one does look horrible. It also looks like massive underextrusion on the layer before it. Its laying down a bed of strings, instead of smooth sheets. I’ll throw the same filament in my x1c and run it for comparison. Mine look good in person and are buttery smooth but there are lighter and darker areas. This is normal for me. I usually go the route of doing hilbert curve top surfaces, if im going for beauty over smoothness.

[StreetSports]

@user_458739613

I saw someone have a problem where the rear duct mechanism that switches from internal to external exhaust, was broken. Something to look into. Id also do a temp tower if the fumes are that bad. May be running too hot or alot of evaporation from moisture

[BaIto]

I’m actually printing an exhaust setup to shunt the fumes out the window anyway, but considering I have never dried any of this ABS, I wouldn’t be surprised if all your points are valid.

What’s a temp tower?

[StreetSports]

Yep. Sorry about the typos/Edits.

[BaIto]

Yea I edited mine too slow after seeing you edited yours. Lol

[StreetSports]

Top is x1c, bottom is h2d, left are non ironed and right are ironed. H2d’s PA is off a bit.

[BaIto]

Is that just lighting, or does the X1C seem more uniform?