I can confirm there is a smell. Yesterday I decided to print the AMS T-pose bracket while I was WFM. Got a headache after about 2 hours. Walked out of my room for 15 minutes (ish), walked back in and was slapped with strong ABS smell. I had been nose blind to it I guess before lol.
I didn’t block the poop chute, so maybe that has something to do with it. Idk.
Thank you, you did not need to use this big a sample 
You think it’s good? I think it’s awful compared to what I get from my P1S. It’s even worse when you had some thickness to the part and more importantly holes in it.
I think the issues apart from ironing settings are the aux fan which is blowing too much and especially the top panel fresh air entry for the exhaust fan which is giving awful results on ironing. I performed some testings setting aux fan to 50% and exhaust fan off right after printing starts and results are better (still bad but improved).
Here is what I get on P1S vs. the best I can get on H2D (P1S is all default except 30% flow rate).
That second one does look horrible. It also looks like massive underextrusion on the layer before it. Its laying down a bed of strings, instead of smooth sheets. I’ll throw the same filament in my x1c and run it for comparison. Mine look good in person and are buttery smooth but there are lighter and darker areas. This is normal for me. I usually go the route of doing hilbert curve top surfaces, if im going for beauty over smoothness.
I saw someone have a problem where the rear duct mechanism that switches from internal to external exhaust, was broken. Something to look into. Id also do a temp tower if the fumes are that bad. May be running too hot or alot of evaporation from moisture
I’m actually printing an exhaust setup to shunt the fumes out the window anyway, but considering I have never dried any of this ABS, I wouldn’t be surprised if all your points are valid.
What’s a temp tower?
Yep. Sorry about the typos/Edits.
Yea I edited mine too slow after seeing you edited yours. Lol
Is that just lighting, or does the X1C seem more uniform?
In person, the non ironed x1c (top left) print looks better than the non ironed (bottom left) h2d print at the edges. The PA is off on the h2d. The center of non ironed h2d print looks drastically better though.
For the ironed side, the h2d (Bottom right)looks all around better than the x1c (top right). If you zoom in on the ironed sides, the h2d is more consistant. The x1c has parts that are over extruded and some parts that are under extruded. The h2d could be better with slightly more flow, but this is the standard profile setup on both.
This is 5 layers of pla, so no warp. This X1C was purchased in the black friday sale 2024.
Here we go. Wish me luck. 40W locked and loaded
Lol, the disclaimer scrolls for like 30 pages of this tiny text
Meanwhile when you bought the base Xtool D1 this is what you got…it doesn’t have anything under what you’re cutting for god sakes LOL. You could connect this bad boy to the wifi and start sending things to it. Bambu took the liability errrrr I mean safety much more seriously.
Yeah. Cant start any laser operations without holding the top right button down.
Super amateur video uploading to youtube now.
For cutter and plotter stuff, check
He did an awesome job on the review. Almost as many likes as this review in his 1st hour after posting. Very professional.
7 minutes. Coworkers family crest in a powder coated steel coffee cup. Should have done higher watts since it was a curved surface. This was at 50%
Can you print on that and see what happens? I wonder if it leaves a pattern or starts to peel off the coating
@Leonilian
Here you go. Bambu PLA Basic. Peeled right off. You could definitely etch a company logo onto a plate for transfering to prints. Probably qr codes and bar codes too. Multiple qr codes on one plate for small etsy parts
This is my first time using a laser. Bambu made it stupid easy. Took 5 minutes to figure out the dog tag. Only hickup was not setting proper part thickness when I did the coffee cup. Laser smashed into it. Thankfully, Bambu put the perfect amount of tension on the latch, so the laser just slid off its mounts without damaging anything. I assumed the lidar in the laser could do range finding.
Edit: it can find range, but doesnt do it automatically. You have run the height calibration in the slicer before slicing or enter it manually based on part thickness. Its fast and accurate, but only scans for the highest point. Doesnt create a map. Need the rotory tool
Wow - this is a real discovery! I want to try it but don’t have a spare plate yet.
Cool part is it didnt go all the way to the metal, so i can peel it off and replace it later too.
