In person, the non ironed x1c (top left) print looks better than the non ironed (bottom left) h2d print at the edges. The PA is off on the h2d. The center of non ironed h2d print looks drastically better though.
For the ironed side, the h2d (Bottom right)looks all around better than the x1c (top right). If you zoom in on the ironed sides, the h2d is more consistant. The x1c has parts that are over extruded and some parts that are under extruded. The h2d could be better with slightly more flow, but this is the standard profile setup on both.
This is 5 layers of pla, so no warp. This X1C was purchased in the black friday sale 2024.
Meanwhile when you bought the base Xtool D1 this is what you gotā¦it doesnāt have anything under what youāre cutting for god sakes LOL. You could connect this bad boy to the wifi and start sending things to it. Bambu took the liability errrrr I mean safety much more seriously.
@Leonilian
Here you go. Bambu PLA Basic. Peeled right off. You could definitely etch a company logo onto a plate for transfering to prints. Probably qr codes and bar codes too. Multiple qr codes on one plate for small etsy parts
This is my first time using a laser. Bambu made it stupid easy. Took 5 minutes to figure out the dog tag. Only hickup was not setting proper part thickness when I did the coffee cup. Laser smashed into it. Thankfully, Bambu put the perfect amount of tension on the latch, so the laser just slid off its mounts without damaging anything. I assumed the lidar in the laser could do range finding.
Edit: it can find range, but doesnt do it automatically. You have run the height calibration in the slicer before slicing or enter it manually based on part thickness. Its fast and accurate, but only scans for the highest point. Doesnt create a map. Need the rotory tool
Fantastic. Do you possibly have a photo of how you are feeding the TPU (85a)? If I understand correctly 85a can go in an AMS/AMS-HT but 95 and above canāt (or is it the other way aroundā¦ I forget).
Iām just trying to work out the feed system of multiple PTFE tubes and adapters and see the easiest way to mount the TPU spool. Ideally Iād like to keep it in an AMS-HT.
Itās fantastic to find another delightfully crazy soul!
Once my H2D 40W laser arrives, Iāll be right there with you putting it through its pacesāengraving, cutting, and no doubt stumbling into a few āwhat on earth just happened?ā experiments. Iāve been printing heaps of sublimation transfers so Iāve got plenty of copper-clad boards to test (and a pile of other fun materials, too). Next on my list: crisp, professional signage for the airfieldāclearly marking the taxiway, the runway threshold, and where āairfield beginsā meets āthe rest of the world.ā If everything behaves as I hope, those signs will be laser-engraved; if not, the Carvera Air will have to save the day. Hereās to turning a healthy dose of madness into some truly epic projects!
I just fed it through a ptfe tube that goes from right side nozzle to side spool holder, using the bypass port with a ptfe coupler on each side of the port to lock it in place. If I have issues still after the .6 nozzles show up, ill try and feed it from above. Its surprisingly soft. Almost like a marshmellow.
85a is softer than 95a by far. 90a is a middle ground.
00, a and d are the different groupings of hardness.
My short lasering experience gives me this conclusion. Bare metal engraving has very little, if any, negative side effects. When I lasered the powder coated coffee cup, it made the printer stink. Had wipe down the interior walls, top and bottom with alcohol and I still smell it a little. So, if people are smart about it, and only cut/etch stinky stuff on rare occasions, I see the laser as an easily maintained addition. If you plan on cutting wood or leather every day, you bought the wrong machine.
RIght now im etching my xps laptops aluminum lid. I have about 3 hours of lasering metals and still no dust. Its like a tattoo gun for metal stuff. Dont try and etch magnesium. Could end badly.
Funny, thatās one of the things I really want to etch with a laser too. Itās one of the first things I thought of when they announced the laser.
I want to do some other stuff with the laser too. Iām still saving for the laser version. I want to try doing some wood cutouts for model buildings though, and maybe some leather stuff.
@StreetSports howās the cleaning been after the dirtier laser jobs? Does it feel tedious, or manageable?
Honestly, from what ive seen from the bambu wiki and my own experience, is with wood, it may actually smell good. And also you can cut a ton of stuff in 40 hours(40 hours is the example pic on the wiki) And Im not positive that they used an external filter and fan for the wiki test. Cleaning the whole machine can be done somewhat quickly too.
If I were to cut wood, I would wipe all the oil off the rails and screws first, do my cutting, do a quick clean and maybe blow it out with a leaf blower and then re-oil everything. Not sure what leather would be like honestly.
Ive had zero dust buildup. I did a wipe down with alcohol because the powder coating on the coffee cup stunk it up a bit.
The laser loses its home position between projects, so people should do the proper amount of passes the 1st time. or set the speed correctly for a single pass. I did one pass, it wasnt deep enough, so I did another and the 2nd one was off in the x and y by about half an inch. Now I have a hologram thinking ape on my laptop. Next weekend ill make a sticker to cover it up and etch the rest if the cover, now that I know more. For aluminum to have a nice deep etch may take 5 passes to not heat up at all but still leave a textured pattern. One pass does it, but It doesnt look so great.
