Every time I print with a 0.2mm nozzle, I get to layer 2 or 3 before I start getting cloggs. I tried slowing down the print etc., but I would expect the nozzle to print fine with Bambu filament and settings as well as Bambu profiles ?
Is there a ‘trick’ to NOT have it clogg almost immediately.
My first thought would be to bump up the nozzle temp by 5 or 10 degrees.
What filament and temps you using?
Are you really printing with the default speeds? I found those to be still too fast, maybe it would jam with some filaments (or rather grind them).
And what filament are you printing with? I had no clogs with a 0.2mm nozzle and various filaments, but if it has any particulates in it then it can clog very easily.
Actually I thought it is standard speed but I saved it as a new profile so it didn’t show orange. I print all speeds at 95mm/s apart from bridges and overhands - those I print at 10mm/s
Bambu PLA, Bambu Marble, Bambu Sparkle … even normal PLA clogged after third layer and temps are standard, which I think is 220 or whatever the default filament profile does.
Actually most of the speed limit should come from the filament profile’s flow rate limit - the top that still looked good for me with non-Bambu PLA was 2 mm^3/s. Check what yours is. With that flow rate, I doubt you’re actually printing at 95mm/s…
Bambu Sparkle and Marble might clog, those have particulates. Maybe they are (supposed to be) small enough to print with 0.2mm nozzle, but I would first try with just plain basic PLA. It’s possible there were remnants from the Sparkle and Marble filaments when you tried normal PLA, do you remember in which order you tried them? A cold pull will get them out.
Also, are you printing with the top or door open? This is even more important with the 0.2mm nozzle because the filament is running at much lower speeds, thus having much more time for it to heat up and clog something (though it should clog the extruder, not the nozzle, it can sometimes clear itself after getting cold again…)
Bambu’s website says don’t use the .2 nozzle with marble or sparkle so that’s probably it. Also, make sure you selected the .2 nozzle when slicing the prints.
Marble / Sparkle I only just recently started. I tried eSun PLA+, Sunlu PLA, Bambu Matte PLA and Bambu Basic where I had most clogs.
I am not sure I understand the statement that you doubt it’ll print at 95mm/s … do you mean because of the standard flow it isn’t able to print 95mm/s ? I see flow ratio for those Bambu PLAs are set to 0.98 by default.
Did you calibrate you filament to the .02 nozzle?
Tried but even then it clogged. I just received a new 0.2mm nozzle in case the one I have is a lemon.
I too could use some help with the 0.2mm nozzle and nozzle clog.
I am printing with Devil Design ASA on the recommended temps for DD for both heat bed and nozzle ( created a separate profile for the filament ).
Want as much detail, so print with standard layer width for 0.2mm nozzle and set the layer height to 0.1mm ( not even the finest ! ).
I am printing Star Wars Death Star tiles, and am looking at 2 days and 11 hour for the largest part.
The printer warns me about possible nozzle clog when the heat bed is at 90 degrees, but I push ignore and start printing. All goes well, print looks spectacular, can’t believe is not factory mould 
However, between 8 and 10 hours in, I get nozzle clog ( and the X1C continuous, and doesn’t stop the print by itself ).
I have resliced to 0.4 nozzle, still 0.1 layer height, and with standard speed, it carves up the infill pattern and breaks off my supports. And, what I dislike even more, surface detail is not up to my standard.
So I would like to go back to the 0.2mm nozzle.
I print with Devil Design, since it is both cheap and has the right shade of grey ( Bambu’s is too dark ). I have always like FormFutura and the ApolloX has printed well for me on my Prusa ( also with 0.2mm nozzle ( with cardboard boxes around the printer ).
What can I do best to try and prevent nozzle clog ?
Slightly up the temp of the nozzle ?
Max. the part fan ?
Set the case fan higher ?
Open de lid slightly ? That would lower the case temp.
Any help would be greatly appreciated, since wasting plastic is bad for the environment, my wallet ( both for buying plastic and for AC ) and very frustrating !
thanx,
lucas.
I’m still trying to get Bambu ASA to print reliably with a 0.2 nozzle. I killed one 0.2 nozzle already as it is permanently and completely clogged. I’m trying to get small “engineering” type parts that go outdoors to print.
I’ve at a loss at what to adjust in the print settings. It feels as if Bambu concentrated on creating perfect profiles for a 0.4 nozzle and just went “This should work for a 0.2 nozzle” and gave up testing, letting the user to try to figure it out somehow.
What material are you printing?
I test print with Bambo Gray PLA (which is somewhat hit and miss for clogging). When I get the CAD design done and finished tweaked, then I print with Bambu Black ASA and all heck breaks loose, clogging like crazy, grinding and stripping the ASA in the extruder (I’ve gotten really good at disassembly of the extruder gearing and cleaning it out).
I just received a new 0.2 nozzle, but I am hesitating trying it out again.
Assuming you’ve tried upping the nozzle temperature?
No, I haven’t. How much more should be added? 5, 10, 15, 20C above the profile?
One thing I have noticed is that Bambu already set’s the filament temperature higher than average in the first place. Example: On my Ender3 S1 PRO, I found PLA to be perfect at 200C. I understand that the X1C prints faster, hence the higher filament temp required to ensure that it flows properly so they default to 220C for PLA. So, I guessed they already took that into account for ASA and other settings.
I forgot to mention that on my last attempt at trying to unclog the 0.2 nozzle I ended yanking so hard that I ripped the connecters out of the Extruder Interface Board, breaking the fan connector socket, and breaking the thermistor wires. So besides ordering a new 0.2 nozzle I had to order new thermistors, and I am waiting for the Extruder Interface Board to come back in stock so I can replace it.
我也是发生了同样的问题，也是在3-4层出现了打印耗材无法挤出的现象，我使用的是第三方ABS。但我并不认为是堵塞了，因为我手动停止打印后进行退料操作正常，然后再进行进料操作打印喷嘴还是会有耗材正常流出的，一切都看似正常，但当我开始打印甚至第一层都无法打印出来了，我已经更换了一个0.2mm的喷嘴套件，但问题依旧。
I think I worked it out. So far I am going through my models that I’ve wanted to print, but failed, and they are printing nicely.
What I have done after getting a new 0.2 nozzle that hasn’t been used with any other type of filament:
Dried my ASA filament. I forgot the first rule of “If your filament fails to print - Dry it out, even if it’s brand new just opened out of the shrink wrap.” I just used the X1C capabilities to dry filament (the 12-hour process, with flipping the filament after 6 hours). But if you have filament dryer, use it.
Reduced the wall thicknesses by 0.0x/2 (round down). Example: If the wall was thickness was 0.22 → 0.21 or 0.25 → 0.22
Reduced overhang Z distance by 1/2. Example: Top/Bottom Z distance: 0.20 → 0.10
So far, I’ve been printing at 0.06-layer height and with no issues - so far. My logic of the changes is that if you take the 0.40 nozzle settings, and just reduce them by 1/2 (since a 0.20 nozzle is half the size of a 0.40 nozzle), things might print more reliably. Mainly because I think the default wall thicknesses were trying to over extrude and pushing to much filament and causing clogs. Taking it down just 0.01 doesn’t seem that much, but… you never know.
One last thing: I made sure that I did an automatic “Flow Rate” calibration for the filament. (I do this no matter what type/brand roll of filament I have, so I have a lot of user filament presets per nozzle diameter, and keeping track is “interesting”.)
UPDATE:
While catching up on the prints that I wanted in 0.20 nozzle (I have a bunch of small “engineering” parts), I just happened to leave a couple prints at the default wall thickness’s in Bambu Slicer… And they are printing just fine. So that just leaves the solution at “Dry your filament”. At least for me, this has worked for now. (I still modify the Z distance for supports, since I have already run across a couple prints that failed with Top/Bottom Distance = 0.20. 0.10 has been good for support Top/Bottom Z distance).
Have you run the flow rate calibration?
If you use a 0.4 nozzle for printing and everything works well, you will have problems if the extruder no longer feeds the filament properly. For various reasons: They reduce the power of the motor or they reduce the grip of the gears so that the power is no longer transferred properly.
Looking at it another way, however, it is exactly the same: the extruder has a certain force to push the filament through a 0.4 nozzle. If you use a 0.2 nozzle, you have a higher resistance during extrusion. This means that smaller nozzle sizes tend to clog more as they get smaller.
So you need to pay even more attention to the right conditions when printing with smaller nozzles: Filament moisture, printing temperature, speed and just about anything else that affects extrusion.