Oops. Sorry. All values in Centigrade regardless of whether or not there’s a “F” or “C”. 
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Ok its time for the big test. I think I’ve dialed things as best I could based on above advice. Going to kick off a 30+ hour half/box that is essentially 250x250 x 78mm. I don’t expect it to be completely flat but hopefully as good as the smaller other “half” I printed earlier.
Two questions - Best infill pattern? I’ve been using gyroid but should I switch to rectilinear or? Concerned about heat dissipation etc. Looking at 15% infill. Don’t need a lot of strength.
And the inside if the box base - Should I be ironing this in terms of overall warp / cooling prevention? If so best settings to minimize the time and hopefully keep cooling rate down. No one is going to see this inside of the box.
Finally, I thought there was an edit capability for past posts but apparently not. At any rate I had been saying all along that I’ve been using eSun ASA. Don’t know where I got that from but in reality all my printing has been with Sunlu ASA Gray. For what it’s worth…
Fail! After about 18 hours the left front corner pulled up (plate and all) and nozzle hit and shifted. The good news is that I needed support for several pockets on the bottom of the box. That worked beautifully. Easy to remove and decent surface with Z top distance set to .3.
Post print analysis:
- I had used plate holding tabs in the four corners. The one in the left front corner popped off early on. Certainly possible it was a major contributor but not convinced the print wouldn’t have separated from the plate anyway.
- I had the bed heated to 115C the entire time. Initial chamber temperature reached 52C but after about 8 hours the chamber temperature started to drop until it reached 46C despite the printer door taped up, the room itself not ventilated and maintained temperature. No printer fans on at any time.
(1) above may have been a contributor but I think likely (2) was the culprit. 6C is a hefty drop. Not sure where I am losing the degC. Used painters tape to seal door. Perhaps a thicker tape. Wonder what others might be using or have any ideas as to temp loss.
any pics? front left is right by the camera…
@3dsurfr sure. Here are two pix. 1st is the top. Bottom, lower left of image is the front left side as you face the printer. That corner popped up, the nozzle hit and actually bumped the entire plate over to the right. I stopped it shortly after that., approximately 18 hours into it.
The second image is the bottom illustrating how well the support worked out.
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Why such a tight infill? Is that why it takes 30 hours? (I’ve never done a print longer than ~6 hours…)
The infill is 15%. This is 250x250mm And based on advice I am printing at 70mm/s.
What the pic show is the bottom top surface of the box. Its at the point where it transitions to just the perimeter wall of the block.
If you only need the support for holding the upper surface, try support cubic. Its been my best friend lately.
Thanks everyone for your comments and feedback. Hopefully will finally get this dialed in.
I realized I should really include what the final print looks like.
As you can see this requires almost the entire plate so I need to do the BL sanctioned override which requires the use of the external filament feed as the filament cutter gets disabled so AMS is not available. Also for context the other half of this is the piece I showed earlier in the thread. It essentially slides inside this piece. I have been succssful in printing that piece.
The way I currently have this set up using the parameters I mentioned earlier this takes about 32 hours to print. This is based on 15% Gyroid infill, ironing only on the topmost surface and all printing at 70mm/s or less. I am using standard Engineering plate with all 4 corners clamped down to the bed. But as I mentioned the front / left corner clamp popped off early and I did not notice that. This is where the warping occurred later on. Certainly is the possibility that the warping might not have occurred if the clamp remained in place. But I fear that the print would have just popped of the plate instead of warping with the plate.
In general, everything prints ok until I get to the point where the print transitions from printing the entire ‘bottom’ to just the side walls. I think what may be happening is that the last several layers of the bottom are solid as opposed to infill which takes much longer to print. As a result, the side walls are sitting around at each layer while the bottom is filled in, if that makes sense. Thinking this may result in uneven cooling as a result. And thus the warping at this point.
The other concern as mentioned earlier is that after 8 hours or so with chamber temperature maintained at 52C it starts falling to 46C. Bed temp remains at 115C and all fans are off all the time with doors and top (X1C) taped shut. Room is closed off with no external airflow. Temperature around 20C and humidity @ 18-20%. So not sure where that temp drop is coming from but certainly a concern.
I may have confused some with my comments about support. On the bottom of the box are several indentations.
These came out quite nicely using @vladimir.minkov recommendations for settings. Nice and clean and very easy to remove. That has not been a problem for me to date.
@StreetSports I will look into support cubic. I’ve heard a lot of good things about it.
And @3DTech thanks for the suggestion. I am concerned that there may be a better way to do the infill.
Unfortunately I will be away from the printer rest of week so not able to retry the print again until next week. But open to further suggestions. Again thanks to all for your comments.
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You have more patience than I do 
I don’t know what your strength requirements are, but I would drop the infill. I find 8% line infill provides enough for large prints, but of course your requirements may vary. If not strong enough, increasing perimeter lines or top/bottom layers is where I go. Check the printing times too and pick something that doesn’t have you wait 18 hours…
With PolyMaker ASA I find that 115C bed temp is too hot. Not sure anymore why, but the bottom of the print stayed too soft is what I remember. I don’t go above 105C.
You could try speeding up the top layers so it doesn’t take so long. I also wonder whether a different pattern, such as concentric, could change the behavior. More than the cooling of the walls around the top layer I wonder whether it’s the continuous diagonals of the top layers that are pulling the corner up. Maybe a star pattern cut partially into that lid bottom or raised up from the bottom (when upside down) could help by cutting the long diagonal lines. Dunno whether that makes sense to you.
I just tried printing with ASA and got some warping and layer separation at a particular point. I didn’t want to figure out ASA right now, so decided to use PLA as a long term temporary solution until I feel like doing the ASA challenge.
I saved this thread to reference later.
My initial thoughts are that I need to design the ASA parts like you would an injection molded part with relatively thin plastic walls and ribs for support and avoid thick, infilled areas.
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@SimEyeSee, I don’t think you need to redesign your part to be injection mold friendly in order to print with ASA. My background is in designing parts for injection molding and I haven’t had issues printing with ASA given the proper setup. Here are the main points of consideration:
- Make sure the filament is dry. ASA is VERY hygroscopic.
- Make sure that the chamber is correct temperature (the generic settings in bambu studio should work fine).
- (I’ve found) regardless of which plate you go with, glue is your best friend. There’s a reason Bambu gives you a stick with your printer!
- Consider a generous brim.
- Check over all these things again!!!
Here is a part I printed today that breaks all the rules with injection molding. It’s quite thick, but ASA worked fine on the generic ASA setting in Bambu Studio.
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I was probably not generous enough with the brim.
After reading a few things online, I think one of the issues I had was due to the time it took to switch to the HIPS interface layer and back to the ASA. There was only one layer where it switched and it was near the beginning of the print. There was some layer separation at the layer where the HIPS interface was printed (only printed in a small portion of the layer, not where the separation occured, but beside it) and I read it is because the ASA cools down some while waiting for the filament change, which caused the layer separation for the next line that is printed.
One suggestion was to preheat the bed for 30 minutes before starting the print, so that the chamber is warm. Does anybody agree with this or have any other suggestions?
@All and @3dsurfr , some update after around 3 weeks . Bambu , via the local supplier changed my hotplate and now is flatter( the curve was causing a lot of the ‘warping’ in my case) the delay was that first Bambu was going to ship me new one , but then they referred me to the NZ distributor . Pretty happy as the distributor changed it for me at no charge with V3 and just brought the printer to them.
My old plate was V2 and the distributor had on stock a couple of V2 and also V3 , i asked them to measure it before installing it, and the brand new V2 was curved 0.2-0.4mm . So any big objects out of question. They did check the V3 and was looking flat before installation. Bambu requested log on the new V3 plate and they said it is with in the spec( for the old one they confirmed is out of spec) , but will see as i still see curve around 0.1mm-0.150 but that should be ok , will check on the first big print.
@3dsurfr probably you can change yours just make sure to insist on V3 and needs a DC power as well they supply both , just open a ticket and attached the images , then they will ask you for logs of the last print to confirm
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Great thread! This is the issue I’m dealing with just now.
The important piece of info I can contribute is that not all ASA filaments are the same. Some warp much more than others. For example; I never could get Bambu’s ASA not to warp heavily. It always does. Same settings for another manufacturer most likely gives you warp-free object. I am talking about objects sized up to 100mm, because I’ve not had a case of 100mm+ yet.
After reading everything, I am a bit worried that this might be an issue that doesn’t have 100% perfect solution. Is there an ASA filament that we could use to print 250mm large object warp free? And what kind of settings to use. Thats the question.
I am getting X1E in following days. Will report back how much actively heated chamber helps and if I can manage to do 250mm large ASA part warp-free.
EDIT: Actually, Bambu’s ASA is not so bad. It is just so different. It looks like too much cooling immediately warps Bambu’s ASA. And it needs lower bed temp - lower is actually better than higher. Must have something to do with temp gradient compared to chamber. I am trying to figure out at which layers to reduce bed temp and down to which temp so it can still hold till the end of the print. Also, it is very important whats happening after print is finished. Best is to turn off any kind of fans and let chamber cool down naturally.
I was told by bambu labs after reviewing my large ASA part that the P1S is not capable of printing large parts
So i print large ASA with my p1p with p1s upgrade without any issues, i heat my chamber 30 min. And my max chamber temperature is 53 celsius. I print Extrudr dura pro ASA with generic asa profile.
What do you consider large. Mine was most of the bed with a thickness .125”