How is it possible that your measurements are so different from mine? I am quite new to electronics stuff but, as I said, I measured 800 mA with two different devices on the new Juupine strip.
/edit: By looking at the pictures I just realized that there are two “new” versions. One where the LEDs are just further apart than on the old (my new version) and one where they left out every other LED and resistor (your new version).
Also, it looks like all the listings by Juupine have updated product images and are all the same version now.
Yeah, i’m assuming that it has something to do with the pcb traces. Tough i’m still not going to run the risk of using 5x of the rated power from that port.
As the new 0.3A Juupine LED stripe version seems to be legit, i’ll connect that one instead of the original LED. I’m aware that it may not be as bright as the other offered LED stripes that pulls more power and could fry the electronics of my printer.
The 0.3A version should be better than the original simlpy because the light is coming from all sides.
And for the case that it’s not bright enough I’ll add a LED stripe with external power supply that will be placed into the Riser for the AMS I want to print. So that I can turn this one on if more light is needed.
Also the chance that there is a issue with the lidar should be reduced with the 0.3A version.
Hi Ikraus, Could I ask for a little detail on the components you used as there are a number of options on the Aliexpress links you supplied. What width LED’s and which pin connectors would you suggest I purchase?
Many thanks in advance
Aiden
COB LED Tape Light Bar Natural White, 320LEDs 8mm 24V, 2m
The adhesive on this light strip worked for a few months of printing with PLA, PETG and TPU. The lights remained in place after I made some prints with ASA, with chamber temp around 56°C, but then it let go a couple days later, when hot weather raised shop temperature to about 35°C.
I’ve cleaned off the old adhesive and replaced it with 3M 3/8-5-468MP Adhesive Transfer Tape, It has not yet been exposed to high temperatures, but 3M claims it should withstand 149°C for weeks.
I printed a small open box to hold the relay. The box and the relay are mounted using 3M VHB automotive trim tape that I had on hand. There may be a better method, but it works so far. Wiring connections were made with the male and female JST connectors and some solder seal wire connectors (similar to these).
I still do not have a picture of the mounted relay or wire routing, but I do have a shot of the Y connection I made to connect the relay trigger wire and the stock light to the AP connector.
I would expect so, I did not leave anything disconnected and I certainly expect to be able to plug in an AMS. Bambu sells their printers with/without AMS but does the printers are always AMS compatible.
Late to the party here but thanks for your post.
I’ve been running a color accurate 24v LED halo in the riser for quite a while but have seen the lidar error regularly so when I tripped over your post, I decided to followed your lead.
Thanks
I made made my own ‘Y’ cable with 1.25mm JST connectors from Amazon (I’ve been meaning to get some of these micro sized JST’s for a while).
My X1 puts out 4.86v to the stock LED light bar. I worried about adding more current draw to that circuit so I used a small relay (SIP1A-05) with a 200r resistor to limit the draw to 6mA or so. (The relay tested out needing just 5 to switch). I used a screw terminal for the resistor just in case something changes in the future.
So 1.25 Female JST to the X1 LED cable, parallel male back to the AP connector and a third in parallel to the 200r resistor and the SIP1A-05 internal reed switch. I made a little vented box to hold that bit and tucked it next to and behind the console display with the relay switched pair cable running behind the front support beam to a Dupont connector for disconnecting. I cut a groove out of the underneath of the riser for the rest of the cable length for it to extend to the back right corner where I could splice into the 24vLED power feed cable.
I looked at the BLLED product but was lucky to see a caution in one video that it was not working with multiple AMS’s not to mention shipping to Australia. So your approach is working here now and life is good again.
Thank you
