Hi again. I never try something new for this, just the material runs out and has to change.
I was not aware that filaments come moist from the manufacturer and would have to be dried first. I feel that this is a product defect. The Manifacture is eSun ordered by amazon.
Accordingly, I will send back another roll PET-G original packaging.
I still have ePA CF lying here. Also from eSun
Achso what the Bambu Support still recommended, which I find however already questionable with ABS to print and then with acetone vapor to smooth the pressure tightly. But this method is much too uneven or not. In addition, ABS is not exactly chemically resistant. But what I would like to have.
I will definitely still watch the videos. Donāt worry and I appreciate any help of course. At the moment, unfortunately, I have relatively little time.
By the way, I pack everything I can get in moisture bags directly into the AMS in every crack. So that the box remains properly dry. I hope that brings something more.
However, although I understand your frustration with it, it really isnāt a āproduct defectā!! Iād post a video about it , but as you say your time is limited, and I understand that fully. Please be assured I wasnāt offended. Text messages are hard, especially if there translation going on.
What you may not realize is during filament manufacture when the hot plastic is extruded out a nozzle to 1.75mm it needs to be quickly cooled. Many setups use water ā¦ so the filament is inherently moist when packaged.
Should (Could?) they dry it first? Yes. But that could drive the cost way up, and when youāre pumping out the levels of production eSun and all the rest do itās just not practical.
Donāt send the reels back. Dry them. You wonāt accomplish anything except feeling better and youāll have the exact same problem with any new reels.
How you want the 3D world to work is not necessarily how it does work, my Friend.
Again, I fully get your upset, but itās just how this works at this time. Five or ten years from now, perhaps not, but for now drying by the user is the standard.
Your filament is wet. Fix it or your efforts will be in vain. Changing settings wonāt fix wet filament. You canāt drive on a snowy road with slick tires either, it is what it is.
Good! But it wonāt dry filament, only reduce the moisture uptake, and every time you open the top it has to start again to dry the air and it takes hours. Itās physics. Iām trying to help here, eh?
Youāre not allowed to shoot the messenger you know, LOL.
thanks for clarifying this again. As soon as it is possible I will take the time to watch the videos.
But in the meantime I have actually fixed the problem! It was really so that the Nozzle was clogged a bit. I have cleaned the Nozzle with the supplied cleaning tool and performed a new test print. The result was suddenly good again. Whether the PVA material has caused some clogging I can not say. But the cleaning has definitely made a difference. So it is not a wet material for me.
I donāt know what PVA you are using with petg but keep your recommend nozzle temperature on the low range like sample below or unless you have higher temp range pva like Atlas or even better usm.
Basic PVA with petg support interface speed 30 to 40
@ThanksForAsking i have see your posted videos now. The last one is very useful for a complete Bambu overview!
For that i will take more time to check and understand.
Thanks for all in that questions.
The fittings I printed last were all tight. I have printed several in a row. Even with printed thread, whereby the sealing effect is created by a rubber seal at the flat end of the fitting. Optimally, the thread would also be completely tight. In my opinion, the best way to do this is to print only one or two threads for the entry and to do the rest completely with the tap. As far as the question of the fitting is concerned, I am satisfied for now.
The right temperature is important, as well as the setting Ironing.
For my large print I still need some finishing time. Iām optimistic, but I think the threads printed here will leak later, so Iāll have to think again about how to rework these areas.
Flow rate looks low and I donāt do lidar pressure advance as Iāve found it somewhat inconsistent
The tests take time but each brand, color and type of filament I use now had itās own profile which makes it a breeze every other time I use that particular variation
The same everything and the lidar scan isnāt always the same which made some prints come out differently or with flaws that Iām able to eliminate by doing it manually just one time for the type and producer of the color Iām printing with
I would be concerned with your cutting through the layer lines and individual filament lines. I think you will increase the possibility of leaks due to the shearing action of the die pulling layer or filament lines apart.
Oh, youāre quite welcome! Iāve enjoyed watching your progress!
I agree, this is a good point. Having the unit cut itās own threads would indeed be fine for a molded part but as @Sticks says, the pressure on the pulling threads might separate the layers from the tremendous forces, also the area being cut could āfragmentā rather than ācutā.
That said, you might be on to something here, itās an interesting thought. Perhaps you could have the lower threads be āpartial threadsā that are mostly there but the insertion does a āminor cutā that finishes the structure.
Let me see if I can apply my meager drawing skills to show what Iām thinking. No judging, 1st time using this app.
:
So the threads are only partly cut. Much less stress but creates a perfect fit.
How sharp are the threads on the mating unit? Itās steel if I recall.
ThanksForAsking - You have pretty much nailed the concept, and the slicer should take care of that by ignoring the final outer dimension if the cad drawing has the major dia under sized.
There are certainly still some settings that can be optimized. In any case, I am glad that the Carbon X1 is delivered set up so that the print results are excellent even with the standard profiles. .
Finding the really right print settings for a print material or even an application can be a big challenge. And also a long process. I bought a Carbon X1 specifically because I was tired of constantly solving problems with my predecessors and printing was all too slow.
I would also like to work with optimized settings. However, Iām actually a bit too impatient sometimes and would rather continue my projects than print test cubes, if you know what I mean.
But I think it is very good that you are deeply engaged with the subject. This knowledge will be very helpful for many others including me.
If I can take the time I will definitely try to optimize this. Do you already have better results to show?
@ThanksForAsking
Do you really think that a thread cut can break the layer? Well, I have now processed different variants in my large print and can therefore say that the thread cut with the tap looks much cleaner and tighter than the printed. Maybe you can explain your drawing again in more detail, I have not really understood what you want to tell me with it.
From everything Iāve read so far, it would be good to have a general collection of printing profiles, especially for different applications and materials and manufacturers. That would probably be very helpful I think.
Even an excellently printed screw will have slight variations, just as machined threads also do, but they are closer tolerance. Any metal sharp thread screwed on a plastic thread will compromise the plastic thread.
If the plastic was āmolded and solidā it will be more robust than a ā3D layered printā, but I have no real evidence that it could break the layers. The structure is certainly more fragile but thereās so many factors it could only be proven by destructive testing.
The Drawing - If I read your post correctly you were asking about cutting the threads when assembled. I was suggesting in the drawing that you could have printed accurate threads for the start of the threads (about 2/3), but blunted rounded threads for the final 1/3 of the body, up to the gasket or washer you say youāre using.
The first part would thread easily and it would give you enough torque to cut the final threads which would probably seal better. Just a guess.
I still donāt fully understand what this plug does. It it disassembled often?
Itās a common thing to assemble plastic items with metal screws that cut their threads into a blank hole during 1st assembly, but they are usually much smaller than what I think youāre making (which is the reverse process).
Thereās a trick I came up with since I worked on a repair line years ago and had to deal with thousands of metal to plastic screws that were frequently disassembled. The screws would often strip the threads on reassembly.
I discovered that when disassembling them to map what screws came out of what hole, the damage was reduced because the cheap screws had significant variation. Putting them back in the original holes helped a lot!
Further. I found if you rotated the screws counter-clockwise until you heard (and felt) a āclickā and then screwed them in clockwise youād align the threads with the start of the screwās original pattern, and it would go in very easily and not cut new threads! Itās a āfeelā sort of thing that comes with practice, but easily learned.
With those two tricks the number of failed reassemblies dropped dramatically!
As a result, I never disassemble a plastic / metal interface without laying out the parts so they go back in original holes and turn the opposite direction until the beginning of the threads is found, then drive forward. If āresistanceā is felt you quickly stop, reverse, and try again.
No idea if this helps you but itās handy to know.
One last thing -
Weāve discussed running Calibrations for the filament before. That is not ātest cubesā!!!
There are a set of calibrations in OrcaSlicer (which is 95% the same as Studio, it even has all your Projects and Settings shared with Studio so you can switch between them).
You run these test once and save the settings in the Filament Profile. From then on when you load that filament itās one click to have perfectly dialed in settings for that filament.
I have suggested this to you repeatedly, and you are ignoring me. Others have too. I find that offensive. THIS IS THE SOLUTION TO FULLY HALF OR MORE OF THE ISSUES YOU HAVE WASTED HOURS AND HOURS CHASING, TUNING, REPRINTING AND ASKING FOR ADVICE FOR HERE.
Because you donāt want to print some cubes. Itās NOT cubes.
Itās setting your machine up for the variations in plastics and the individual differences that exist between machines. All told, the process takes about an hour, after which your machine is a finely tuned engine.
PLEASE.
Look at this page (Click Blue Text). It shows the tests your should run, how to do it and what to look for. You donāt need to run them all. They are all pre-prepared tests, most take two clicks then Slice! You donāt have to read tea leaves, just pick the best result and enter a number. Once.
You should do:
Flow Rate (Pass 1), there is a Pass 2 but I have yet to see a difference.
Pressure Advance
Max Flowrate
Temp Tower
Do them in that order. You may not need the 4th.
IF I seem a bit upset itās because I am. I and other are more than willing to help you as you know, but when we tell you to do a basic thing and you donāt ā¦
Plastics vary. A LOT. This is telling your machine how to deal with that plastic. You save it and youāre done. The only time you have to re-do it is if you switch brands (or rarely color within a brand. Yellow can print differently than Black because of additives). You do the new one once and your set.
Iām still willing to help you but do the bloody tests, OK? Grrrrrr.
You even say this very thing here:
THAT IS WHAT IāM TELLING YOU TO DO YOU SILLY PERSON!
Hi @ThanksForAsking
Iām sorry youāre angry. It was not meant to be disrespectful, I am very appreciative of any helpful content that improves oneās processes and workflows.
I think I misunderstood you regarding your optimization setting so far. I will look at the appropriate tests and link to and run the tests.
Hi @Jrock
I am excited. I keep my fingers crossed that everything goes well.
, but as you say your time is limited, and I understand that fully. Please be assured I wasnāt offended. Text messages are hard, especially if there translation going on. 
so the filament is inherently moist when packaged.
