I just printed a 3 color print on my H2C that I sliced in BS 2.5.3 that I had printed previously with BS 2.5.0 when I noticed a strange behavior. When previously the left nozzle color was called for duty, it almost printed immediately, not anymore with BS 2.5.3.
What happens is with 2.5.0, the left nozzle is pre-heated before it’s needed but with 2.5.3, the heating only start at nozzle change. It adds a huge time at every change from right to left nozzle.
Granted, I have my main color on the right, if it was on the left there would be less changes from left to right and the additional time may be less noticeable but this is a major flaw of BS 2.5.3.
Not sure this is an error in the coding but I suspect the change comes with the X2D addition which may be there to protect (heat creep, something else?) the X2D particular toolhead. Why does it also affect H2, idk.
You can check it, just create a very simple 2 color print, 1 on the right, 1 on the left (with main base color on the right to let the left nozzle significantly cool to make the change more noticeable) and look at the behavior printing when sliced in 2.5.0 and sliced in 2.5.3.
Thanks for sharing this, I’m going back to 2.5 as well, 2.5.3 seems half-baked. They even removed the smooth PEI build plate option so we now the build plate options are even more limited then before. With all of the new H2S/H2D firmware releases I was expecting more features for my H2C, but I guess we’re going backward in functionality instead.
I guess smooth plate was available until BL decided it will never release it and removed it from the settings. I guess the filament presets will also at a point get rid of the smooth plate… I use the engineering plate setting for my biqu glacier as it’s the same as smooth plate’s but of course if you have custom filament presets with changes in smooth plate temperature it will be a pain to replicate these to the engineering plate setting.
BIQU apparently was still confused when they released the H2C glacier so did not even bother to add a code to it I just ironed on an engineering plate code to the plate and all is good.
Yeah that’s exactly my predicament. I have Bambu’s engineering plate, but I also have Darkmoon CFX and Smooth PEI build plates. So now I have 3x plates that all use different temps, but only a single build plate option for all of them… Sometimes Bambu’s decisions really make me wish I’d bought a Prusa lol
I see that my post has gained no traction and I can’t believe no one else noticed it as it is so obvious but I can’t see it reported anywhere.
I installed 2.6.0 and it still the same, the left nozzle is never pre-heated before its use whether it is at time of the first loading or between layers. It adds a HUGE time to the print and can only be a bug introduced with bambu studio 2.5.3.
Has anyone noticed it beside myself? I’m sure it is the same on H2D
Can you please print the following simple file (turn off bed levelling, offset calibration and flow calibration to print it quicker) and look at the behavior between BS 2.5.0 and BS 2.5.3 or 2.6.0 on the printer’s screen. In 2.5.0, the left nozzle is pre-heated and the print start immediately at nozzle change from right to left but with 2.5.3/2.6.0, the printer has to wait for the nozzle to heat before changing color because heating only start when the layer has finished.
You can change the color of course but just make sure the base color (black in my example) is on the right nozzle and red on the left.
Can someone please try to print the above file on H2D and report, I assumed it was an issue shared with H2C but it might not be and may be actually specific to H2C. Thanks
Does this mean it does not pre-heat right nozzle as well on H2D when going from left to right? I could not check that on the H2C as I believe it’s by design, pre-heat is not really necessary on the induction nozzle, it heats up so quick.
OK but that’s not a bug I think. The bug in my case is with 2.5.0 let’s say at about the middle of the last layer print with the right nozzle (the algorithm uses current left nozzle temp, time to finish the current layer to determine when to start pre-heating), it starts pre-heating the left nozzle so when the layer change to the left, the nozzle is at temperature. When the layer finishes, it goes idle and cools down while the right is printing and the process resumes.
With 2.5.3 and 2.6.0 the left nozzle is only heated when the right nozzle layer finishes so if that layer time was long enough, the left nozzle has cooled down a lot and when called into action, it sits there waiting for the temperature to be right and only then starts printing. This adds a huge amount of time at each nozzle change.
I just turned off plate detection for my BIQU plates. The way I see it, I know what’s in the printer and can set it properly, no need for the printer to tell me what I already know.
There is an upside in that if for some reason you pull a bone head move and start a print without the plate on it will save your heatbed. I’ve been printing for years and have only done it a couple of times, once on the H2D and plate detection saved me.
2.6.0.51. H2C. I didn’t notice it before the update, which doesn’t mean it wasn’t there. Was doing a lengthy 2 color print w/PETG and couldn’t figure out why it was doing that until I noticed it was pre heating. I thought that was really dumb it waited and should be easy to fix. I guess I was wrong on the latter.
I just ironed on an engineering plate code to the plate and all is good.