Make installing bed plate easier

When installing the bed plate, the magnets are so strong that they try to grab the plate unless it is held at an extreme angle with the front raised. I imagine that I install it like most others by holding the front up and sliding the back edge until it hits the plastic guide. This works well for front to back positioning. However the plastic guides for the sides of the bed plate hardly stick up at all and it is hard to use them to position the plate when holding it at an angle to keep the magnets from grabbing it.

I think just making the plastic bed plate position guides a little taller could make positioning the plate much easier.

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I would imagine that the X1 is the same.

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Why I’ve never had it snatch the plate out of my hands. :grin:

I’ll second the motion.

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Eeeh… playing a little devil’s advocate here.

If they’re too much higher, then it could interfere with the print head when printing right to the edge of the build volume.

Hmmm. That’s a good point.

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Yep did this little mod on my CR10S for a flex plate. Had to lower the height so the hotend would not hit. I use a microswiss ng dd. Just barely clears the bltouch.

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I never bothered posting about it, but, yes I agree.

I insert the plate at an angle so the back hits the stops first. I then have to reduce the angle very slowly while moving the plate side to side. There is about 2 degrees of angle between where the plate rides up over the left and right stops and it bending and sticking to the bed.

The design just isn’t very good. Being part of the whole platform moulding I doubt it is going to be re-tooled for a small improvement.

Also, If the bed is positioned at the lowest travel point the build plate would be more accessible and visible.
It would be nice if this happened automatically after a print or button activated.

-Uman

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I agree as well. I am pretty good at putting the plate in but sometimes it’s just slightly too far to one side or the other and ends up lifted by the corner guide. Could be better.

IMHO a better design it the way my Prusa does it. There are two small pins on the bed and the build plate has two notches. Just slide it back until it aligns side to side and both pins are touching the plate.

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It doesn’t require as much of a notch as the Prusa though. It could be a simple notch only a couple millimeters.

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I haven’t looked closely at the P1P bed to see if it can be modified by drilling and adding a couple of pins. I plan tool. With the pin solution the don’t need to protrude much and won’t interfere with the print head.

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I also wish the plate extended forward in the left corner to give me something to hold on to when removing and installing. I only touch the very corners of the plate in order to flex it to remove parts. that way I don’t get oils from my hands on the plate. The two corners are where I hold it to reinstall it. With both corners extending past the bed it is easier to control the magnetic attraction.

That is another place where the Prusa plate shines.

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Apparently this is enough of an issue that there is a printer error code associated with it.

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For some people they have issue not to put their pants backwards :rofl:

I unknowingly created a different thread for the same issue:

If there’s anything more to say, I don’t mind continuing it here rather than there.

Unfortunately, it seems we just have to live with it, even though it’s incredibly annoying.

Yes, it´s little difficult to fit the buildplate on the magnetic bed, but…
with a very little trainig, I got used to it and as hopfully most of the users, we have good eyesifght to first adjust the position L ↔ R before releasing the buildplate.

For the “handles” on both corners, I will add these when cnc-milling my own G10 / G11 brintbeds.

The tall end stop pins on the Prusa mk3 are much nicer. Would love to see taller end stops on a future revision of the bambu

or…you know, deal with it and create a better solution to this issue with the power of 3d printing.
its like 3d printers are made for this.

We all don’t have good eyesight.

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