Im having issues printing with Bambu Matte Pla. For comparison I’ve printed with Generic PLA, Bambu Basic and Bambu Matte (Yellow and Ice Blue). Only matte quality is not good. I’ve also used AMS and external spool, to see if that makes a difference. PLA is new and was right out of the packaging, looked dry, but I will dry it overnight and print again. Anybody else had similar issues with Matte? I’ve got 3 more boxes of same PLA, different color, don’t want to open them yet.
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I’d love to hear what others have to contribute on this topic. I’ve been looking for a great answer for a while. There aren’t a lot of folks addressing the poor performance of Matte PLA or for that matter, Silk PLAs which have similar issues as you showed above.
You didn’t say but may I presume you’ve already tuned your filament profile for the filament you’re using? Also, what filament brand are you using and did you check to see if the manufacturer has recommended settings?
Since you’ve already dried you filament, here’s maybe what you might try next. Here’s what I’ve tried with very mixed results.
- Slowing the speed down. This is a universal good start to begin with.
- Increasing the nozzle temperature in 5 degree increments. I’ve found that Bambu Basic PLA as an example, which prints fine at 200-220, I have to increase to as much as 255 for Bambu Matte PLA. The results are better but never as good as regular PLA.
- Decrease volumetric flow. Bambu has 3 different settings for their default PLA profiles and the one setting that stood out in my mind was the Generic PLA vs Bambu PLA, twice the volumetric flow difference. Clearly they know something about 3rd party filaments that they don’t talk about.
Here’s a side by side comparison showing the big difference in volumetric flow. Note that printing in quiet mode does similar things but doing it in the filament profile gives you greater granularity.
At the end of the day, I pretty much gave up on Matte filaments because they were too temperamental. So if anyone has found a magic recipe? Well… as the Ferengi say… I’m ears.
I primarily use PLA Matte and haven’t generally had any print problems on the cool plate or the textured PEI plate. I did have calibration issues (I think) but cleared those up by resetting Bambu Studio.
I haven’t touched the stock settings for this filament. Does Bambu Studio know that this is the material you are using?
In your place, I would double check everything I can and if that doesn’t provide a fix, reset Bambu Studio and start over.
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I haven’t touched stock settings, and have tried printing my files as well as the ones on the internal memory. Then, I altered volumetric speed from 22 to 12, tried slow and fast printing speeds, different temps from 200-250. I have just reset the printer to factory settings. None of these efforts showed any improvements. I am now in discussion with technical support and will keep you updated. I am drying another roll for another 12hrs. In the meantime, I’ll take any suggestions what other settings to try.
I’ve printed almost a dozen spools of Overture Matte PLA without issues. Every spool of Bambu branded filament I’ve use so far as been so wet right out of the box that it drives the AMS humidity up from it’s usual 10% to the mid to high 30’s or higher if I leave it in too long without drying it and one time it killed the desiccant packs. Overture will drive it up to 15-20% at the most and it comes back down on it’s own. The Bambu prints OK even though it’s wetter and maybe prints a bit better when dried.
I use the generic PLA profile with Overture and whatever profile the machine picks based on the RFID for Bambu
Try reslicing a file I know some times the files in internal memory do not work they were sliced for old firmware.
Well, it looks like the problem is somewhere in the printer, and not the filament itself. I’ve dried the filament, the results are the same. I’ve tried different files, speeds, temps, etc, no improvements. The basic filaments print perfectly.
I think It has something to do with a bit of texture in the Matte filament. Could it be something in the hot end assembly? Gears that may need replacing? I haven’t done cold pulling yet, will try that shortly.
It’s really unlikely that it’s your hardware.
After looking at the photos again, I have to believe that this is a flow rate problem. I’m seeing classic under extrusion. In fact, it looks almost like your nozzle is sputtering.
Are you using Bambu Slicer exclusively? Did you try calibrating the max flow rate using Orca slicer? If you aren’t using Orca Slicer already, you’re missing out on some very handy calibration tests baked right into the slicer. Other than that, it’s identical in all ways to Bambu Slicer and uses the settings from Bambu Slicer. I have both running on my machine and over time have stopped using Bambu altogether because Orcas does all the same things and then some.
Here’s the download link to the latest Orca. Don’t worry, installing it won’t mess up your Bambu Slicer and whatever saved filaments and profiles you have in Bambu Slicer will migrate over.
This is where to find the setting for calibration. Note that Bambu doesn’t have this menu choice at the top of their screen, only Orca does.
Here’s the tutorial on how to run that calibration.
Check out this tutorial at time index 5:34 and look at the top of the calibration sample and tell me that doesn’t look like your filament.
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im a 3d printer noob… but i printed about 40 hours since i got my p1s…
i first used up all the orange and green wich came with it… had no problems at all besides a few user errors …
then i used the mate black pla (original bambu) and immidiatly noticed "stuff"sticking out of the layers while printing…
since i mostly print on speed i thought about temps… after googling i found out if u either use mate pla or print fast should go up with the temps…
so i made tests…
normal speed with 225 temps…
crazy with 230 temps…
they sill need fine tuning for sure but it helps…
also doing a manual calibration for flow dynamics and flow rate for eacht fillament can help a lil bit…
also flow calibration and also go up to 230instead of 220 for pla…
Probably no one will read this…
I have the same issue with the Bambu’s mat. I just happen to swap nozzles at the same time as the new filament. After seeing holes in sharp creases and sharp corners look like a cheese grater with terrible layer lines, I thought I forgot to fasten the nozzle. Double checked and a quick test with other filament is good. I slowed down, but did not upped the temperature… Oh well. I have two rolls of mat and now it seems like a majestic way of money wasted.
As far as humidity goes, I have many issues. Especially the cardboard refills or any other cardboard roll is utter rubbish. I have an “active” humidity control with molecular sieve in the box. (A fan forces air depending on humidity levels.) I can absorb about 16g of moisture before saturation is reached. A new refill with the cardboard inner only from Bambu, adds around 10g of moisture per roll. The sieve also dries the filament over a few days, so no need to cook it in an oven to to dry out. The dessicant that comes with the roll is useless. You can toss it away when opening the bag, it’s already saturated. It can holds about 4g max of moisture, or rather that is how much it looses drying it out straight from opening the roll. So I can state safely, Bambu ships every roll with around 15g of free moisture. And in case you wonder, vacuum bagging does not help to dry your filament. It can only keep the moisture in equilibrium at a lower pressure. I think the less air you have, the less moisture it can hold, so better to fill it with dry air or nitrogen.
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I found that Bambu filament is much wetter than Overture. I don’t have a way to measure it beyond the cheap hygrometer I stuck in the AMS but a single spool of Bambu can take it from mid teens to over 30 in just a few hours and I’ve had a roll saturate the Bambu desiccant to the point it was squishy. I typically never dry Overture, I just let the AMS desiccant plus the two printed holders in the AMS do their thing. It’s worked for me so far.
Are you using a version of the sieve that CNC Kitchen tried? I wondered if it worked out in the real world. It’s not real humid were I live, it’s 48% in my printer room at the moment but I can see it being a real boon for those in more humid environments.
I vacuum bag my spools because OCD. I’ve successfully printed from spools that sat in the bottom drawer without bag or box for 4 years but I still can’t stop storing in a bag and the original box. 
A cheap kitchen scale is what I used to measure before an after. I think I paid $10 in 2022, it’s now up to $13. The point is, get the cheapest digital scale you can find because you’re not interested in absolute accuracy, just weighing before drying and after drying weights. Remember, 1g=1ml=1cc of water, gotta love the metric system. 
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QC628PK/
Yeah… about that… Stefan is getting desperate for clicks. Who in their right mind would implement a EUR169,00 solution when a EUR0.50 desiccant bag can do the same job?
Talk about swatting a fly with a mallet!!!
I see this technology having one use-case: where fans are undesirable and the object being desiccated requires unattended maintenance, such as communications equipment on a utility pole or deep well. It seems like an over-thought solution searching for a problem, very niche. The Rosahl website states it was developed by Mitsubishi for a specific problem, likely for expensive equipment like a control box for a $million wind turbine. Or in Japanese terms 1 Trillion, trillion YEN. 
Hey all,
I just got my A1 five days ago and have been fighting print quality issues with the Bambu Matte PLA that I ordered along with it. I’m glad to see that I’m not the only one having trouble with this particular material.
The continual oozing of filament that I see from the nozzle aligns with the filament being wet. I’ll buy some “regular” PLA and hopefully that’ll alleviate my frustrations.
I’m having trouble as well. But I noticed that the problems are not with every matte filament.
No Problems: Charcoal (refill), Dark Green, Dark Red, Ivory White
Almost unusable: Ash Gray
All refills.
First, I only noticed stringing. Thus, I changed the temperature with no grater effect. After printing with other colours, I did change the temperature back to the standard settings. Yesterday I used the grey again and had terrible first layer problems, stringing, some spaghetti. I did a full manual calibration run, but that did not help much. Hence, I put the filament in the dryer last night. Tonight I’ll give it another try.
I had the same problem, but only with PLA matte black. PLA Matte White the print looks perfectly fine, I still struggle to find a solution.
I’ve been using the sieve before I saw the video on CNC kitchen. I live in the tropics, but not just any tropics, this is a hellhole of humidity. Silica is sort of useless, the sieve is great, it dries the filament out as well. I can easiy get 5% RH in my box, but I found that the steep curve from inside the box to outside only gives me about two weeks before my sieve is overrun from moisture seeping in from outside - yeah I can probably use more sieve in the box for a longer lasting effect. Lately I tend to set my limit to 10% RH. Over 10% the fan kicks in and actively circulates air over the sieve. That quickly removes moisture if the sieve is still active. Every box leaks moisture in from outside, even IP65 boxes. The thicker the box walls, the longer it will take to leak. Right now I have one box I used for drying filament. My latest experiment is to see how much (in milligram) moisture silica beads can remove, then I want to throw in the sieve after removing the silica. The sieve will simply dry out the silica if you mix it, yeah, it’s that good at removing water! In this way I hope to “pre-dry” with silica and the dry with sieve. Both have a fan doing active circulation. Both methods are loads faster than just dessicant sitting on the bottom. The truth is, moist air rises, so the bottom of the box is the last place you want your dessicant for fast(er) drying. Pushing air over the dessicant in the AMS, bring my RH down to under 10% in less than five minutes. If it takes longer, my sieve is almost done for. Sieve dry out in an oven easily. I dry mine out at 220 Celcius and stop after a 10% reduction in weight from wet to dry.
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I’m having the same problem with Ash Grey matte.
So, I finally came around to dry and test the filament. It was better, but it was still not as good as other colours. But at the moment, I have lots of problems with poorly wound filament. But that is another topic.
I was having the same issues and it appears they are fixed with new settings.
Used the Generic PLA.
Elegoo Matte Gray
Nozzle Temp - 230
Flow Ratio - .99
Same here. The Bambu Labs PLA Matte white print quality is super.
But the Bambu Labs PLA Matte black gives a lot of problems. Sometimes 1mm thick seams on the outside or very rough surfaces.
I’m using the recommended settings from Bambu Labs and going to try some tips in here, thanks all!