My review of the X2D after 200+ hours

X2D opinions

I’ve owned my X2D now for a little under a month and have over 200 hours on it. I’ve been 3D printing for about 11+ years at this point and I’ve owned and interacted with a plethora of devices; acrylic i3’s, Crealities, Prusas, Vorons, etc. I’ve also owned a couple other BBL machines (A1 Mini and recently P2S).

The reason that I wanted to side-grade to the X2D is the secondary nozzle. Dissimilar supports are a feature that no other machine on the market has (had) at a relatively affordable price. Some can argue that the Snapmaker U1 is a solid alternative but it’s not enclosed by default and once you add the enclosure to it, you’re moving away from the price/performance offering of the X2D.

I’m going to be covering my thoughts of the machine itself, not the AMS 2 that I got as part of the combo. Mine had the feed issues and my filament hub replacement is en-route but that’s its own thing.

TL;DR for anyone who isn’t bothered to read the following stream of consciousness. The X2D is a well-engineered, feature-dense machine at a compelling price, currently held back by half-baked firmware and poor dual-extrusion UX in Bambu Studio. Both (hopefully) will improve with time. If you already know what you want from a printer and have a specific need for dissimilar supports or engineering-grade materials, it earns its price tag. If it’s your first machine, skip it for now. Get an A1/A2, a P2S, or build a Voron/Rolohaun/Prusa, if the Bambu ecosystem doesn’t matter instead.

The hardware

I feel that the hardware offered for the price(€630 + shipping solo printer) is insanely appealing; chamber heater, secondary nozzle, servo based extruder, filtration, whatever else I’m forgetting.

The AUX nozzle being bowden is (in my controversial opinion) an excellent choice. It’s marketed as an aux nozzle and its best application is dissimilar supports; PLA/PETG, PLA/PVA, TPU/PLA, ABS/HIPS, etc. It’s slower and can push less volume of material but that’s fine. You’re printing supports on the slower end anyway even with your main nozzle to avoid them breaking and turning into a spaghetti mess so you lose almost nothing due to the slower bowden extruder. Some people seem to misunderstand the point of the second nozzle but if you go into it knowing that this is primarily for dissimilar support and maybe at max 2-3 layer color changes (labels, etc) or even just 2 colors during the whole print, you’re going to have a great time. For all other multi color prints, the AMS experience is pretty much what you expect of it.

The belts are a nice change (I guess?) but they didn’t get rid of VFAs, they just shifted them to a different speed band. VFAs appear at speeds where the combined periodic disturbances of the system; belt tooth engagement, stepper motor torque ripple, and any other mechanical periodicity, produce visible banding on the print surface. Yes, belt pitch is a factor, but so is stepper motor torque ripple, which runs at its own frequency independent of the belts. By changing belt pitch you’re adjusting one source of periodic disturbance while the other remains. End result: you’ll still get VFAs, just at a different print speed than you’d see with 2mm belts. More of a marketing shtick than an actual fix.

The assembly and engineering of it all is also very impressive. It’s a complicated machine with complex systems packed into a tiny package. There’s a lot going on and a lot of care went into ensuring redundancy during the whole printing process. It’s trying to make the whole thing as fool proof as possible and for the most part I think it succeeds.

All this complexity however comes at the cost of repairability. The extruder disassembly looks horrendous and considering that Bambu markets itself as an “easy to use” machine, maintenance, while fantastically documented, should also be easy! Could some things be done better? Absolutely:

  • I think the fan configuration could be set up to a push pull arrangement instead of the current push push. I don’t have any technical data to back this up so take it with a grain of salt. But from ambient nozzle temp readings, it’s as though a small hot air pocket gets formed between the two nozzles and there’s nowhere for it to go. This can cause issues (while bambu doesn’t recommend it, idgaf) when printing ABS/PETG. Excess heat of that enclosed space can cause the PETG to soften in the cool side of the hotend since it sits ambient at around 65-70C. My current workaround is to disable the chamber heater for those prints.

  • The filament path for both the main nozzle and aux is over-constrained and under-constrained respectively. The main nozzle should be using a 3mm ID PTFE to make sure that the filament can easily travel to the hobbed gears (with the default cable chain arrangement) of the extruder and the aux would be best with a capricorn style 1.9mm PTFE tube to further minimise the flex of the filament through the long filament path (mine came stock with 2mm ID tube). You’re likely going to want to print a riser of some sort to free the main nozzle PTFE from the drag chain and smooth out the path a little. (I printed the P2S/X2D riser by 达达玩).

* This is a silly nitpick but ship the machine with two spool holders. Even if you’re going for the combo, the ability to throw on a spool of ABS as the external main nozzle filament, keep the PETG loaded into aux and not have to fiddle with an AMS loaded with PLA would be a big QoL improvement (yes I can print a spool holder but cmon…). A commentor on Reddit mentioned that their non combo machine shipped with two spool holders, so this point is a little moot. Where’s my second spool holder holder with he combo version Bambu?!

The software

This is where my opinion takes a turn. I think the firmware and slicer usability is half baked at best and hopefully will improve with updates.

Firmware

This feels half baked. Almost there but just playing it a “bit too safe”. Works in internal testing but then collapses a little in the hands of end users.

  • Filament feed issues seem to be the most common problem I’ve seen. Just up the threshold in the firmware. More often than not, the AMS will feed the filament 1-2mm before the hobbed gear and get into a loop. Just push it in there, you’re so damned close. The machine will check for a clog when it asks you to confirm that filament is coming out in the next step anyways and surely if it’s automated during printing and you’re doing color swaps on the AMS, either the servo motor overload error or the AI detection system will be able to tell that something’s up. You’re taking it apart anyways at that point so why add this seemingly pointless redundancy?
  • The whole filament adjustment (for PA) being done through filament presets on the machine (or to the machine through Bambu studio) is clunky. Do it on the filament profile in the slicer. This whole feature is just an added complexity for the sake of complexity and the user experience would improve not having to remember to set it on the machine when changing filaments.
  • The constant baby sitting of “this might not work”, “use bambu filaments for best experience”, and even the “you might have quality issues with Bambu PETG Basic in aux…” is useful for sure, the first time, maybe even the second. But I get it, I also know what I’m doing and happy to deal with the problems created by my unsavoury to Bambu decisions. Let me “Don’t Show Again” this warning and move on from it. Not a big issue but a bit of a QoL negative in my opinion.

A lot of people seem to be complaining about general print quality and I think that’s something that will get ironed out (no pun intended) with time. Comparisons to the X1C are pointless in my opinion because that’s a machine that’s had at least 30 firmware updates in the 4+ years that it’s been around. OFCOURSE it will print better than something that’s just hit the mass market. No matter how much Bambu polish the firmware internally, users will always find ways to break it, make it work worse than the “ideal testing conditions” and add another bunch of variables that they could not have conceived being relevant. It will get better as time goes on, they will collect real world data and update their firmware. Hopefully the hand holding will also go away but…they’re catering to a specific market.

Bambu Studio

This is where I want to say the UX is just not good. It might be nit-picky but I think it could be executed better. This section is going to be shorter because it’s potentially a lot more subjective.

Having 4 tabs for each nozzle type and each extruder, within the already huge ocean of settings, to change variables that are perfectly fine being global is just not good UX. The worst part is that the tabs are locked on the top of the screen and are relatively small so you might spend a few minutes working on some settings only to realise that you’ve been changing them onto the wrong extruder/nozzle.

Making some variables global would be a good simplification. Temperature can be global for all extruders by default and then having a separate temperature for the aux nozzle under that would simplify set-up. Max volumetric speed can also have an extra “aux max volumetric” option under the default one. Having all the settings again in tabs just makes it clunky.

Hide the high flow tab unless you have a high flow hotend chosen under the machine config, and then just automatically adjust the tab to display the right nozzle type when it’s needed.

Again, as before, not being able to adjust PA under the filament settings also feels like a step back.

Conclusion

Overall, when this machine works, and for me it has, with some tinkering, it’s a damned solid piece of engineering. Well-made, feature-dense for the price, and the dumbed down Bambu “press print and printer goes brrrr” experience is there. The firmware will mature, profiles will improve, and most of my gripes will likely shrink with time. My skepticism about BambuStudio’s UX getting meaningfully better remains however.

That said: can I recommend this to a beginner? No. Get an A1/A2 or a P2S* if you want the Bambu ecosystem, or build a Voron/Rolohaun/Prusa if you don’t. You don’t need a chamber heater, aux nozzle, or filtration system while you’re still figuring out why your first layer isn’t sticking.

The X2D is a machine for people who already know what they want from it. If you have a specific need for dissimilar supports, 2 color printing, want to run “engineering-grade” materials, and aren’t going to panic when something needs adjusting, it earns its price tag. If you’re buying it because the spec sheet looks impressive, you’ll probably be frustrated within a week.

*Yes the price difference is small but the learning curve feels like a decent jump with more variables to consider and more things that can go wrong. You’re better off spending that ~€100 difference on filament.

Prints off the X2D

Poke Ball Model by Torikami, originally remixed from MrFozzie
Printed with Bambulabs PLA Basic and Elegoo PETG HF for dissimilar supports.

Uno case by Happy Day Fun Merch, originally remixed from Hugo

Printed with Bambulabs PLS basic.

Gridfinity Storage box by Pred

Printed in Nobufil Black ABSx

Nobufil ABSx Benchy with Elegoo PETG HF Supports

This print failed interestingly. It was a bad idea to be printing the supports FULLY in PETG in a heated enclosure and it basically clogged simultaneously in the hot end and in the aux extruder.

Nobufil ABSx Junction box with Elegoo PETG HF Support interface layers

Spiderman Helmet by javiles

Printed with Bambulab PLA Basic with Elegoo PETG HF Dissimilar supports.

24 Likes

Totally agree with everything, from the little PETG in the aux nozzle notification, to the filament path being too tight for the main nozzle. It seems like those issues are not small enough that someone might stumble into them.

In my 60 hours, I’ve been through everything you mentioned.

Great review!

3 Likes

Great review! I have 4 of these and plan having scaling up quite a bit more. For high temp (99% of what I use them for) the value per $$$ is pretty insane.

The filament path leaves a heck of a lot to be desired, though. I’m seriously contemplating relocating the buffer to the side of the bowden extruder / filament path going inside the printer. Making a 180 degree loop to get there by default is wild. It’s bad enough you are already moving filament 180 degrees coming 90 out of the top of the ams than another 90 to go to the side of the buffer. But then you have to do another 180 all in one loop to get inside the machine after the buffer. That doesn’t include the wild bend finally going to the toolhead from the outside the machine.

The AMS “STRUGGLES” pushing filament through all this. Granted, the stuff I use is pretty tough filament (high temp), but I can only imagine using a softer filament how many more issues one would have.

If you put the buffer on the side then it would a be direct filament path to inside the machine from the AMS and would probably greatly reduce the strain on AMS etc. I used to get all sorts of warnings for “high resistence in slot x of AMS while feeding” and now those aren’t there.., assuming BL changed how much resistence is required for the error to pop up in a firmware change which doesn’t address the fact it’s struggling in the 1st place.., just bye bye error.

With that said, I’ve never had a print not start or fail due to AMS not getting there. I already modified some of the PTFE tubing lengths and made the angled paths as gradual as a curve as possible. The main hotend PTFE inside the machine is TOO LONG for instance and should be shortened to help with that.

Has anyone else thought about changing the buffer location to see if it doesn’t solve all the filament path issues?

This is not a horrible idea from an actual filament pathing perspective but it will be really annoying routing the tiny JST GH connector from that dedicated little hole at the back of the machine to anywhere on the side and would likely require drilling a hole to get it through.

I don’t think that the routing outside the machine is as bad. Yes the buffer to the aux nozzle is just plain weird but from the buffer to the DD it’s alright.

I reckon the AMS is absolutely capable to pushing the filament. The motor on it is beefy and it shouldn’t have real issues with the forces. I genuinely think it’s just a conservative threshold value from BBL to “play it safe”

If you’re using an AMS on the aux nozzle, this won’t be helpful but I’m feeding it exclusively from the external spool on the left (facing the machine) straight to the aux hotend. I don’t think the buffer is needed there unless you’re running an AMS and I haven’t had any issues from running it that way.

1 Like

To me, I would just be extending the wires or making a jumper harness and leaving that plug where it sits.

The big thing is listening to this thing struggle loading and unloading filament is something else lol. I mean, the buffer is in line with the H2 stuff and they load fast and without issue. The X2D must take 3 times as long to get filament to the tool head.

It just makes one wonder how much more wear you are asking for on those plastic teeth etc., vs the same AMS struggle free on H2 machines.

Again, I haven’t had a failure because of it. But the comparison of the AMS loading filament between an H2 machine and the X2Ds is shocking lol

Edit: And correct. External spool for bowden extruder as well.

Surprisingly, my X1C even with old AMS and >1m PTFE never had much trouble with that extra 180° turn.
As mentioned in another thread, I think that tube length and even curves don’t cause to much harm. What I think is worse: of course sharp bends. but less obvious: locations, where curvature rotates, e.g. going out of the AMS counter-clockwise and then after the buffer clockwise into the printer. In my theory, the filament will prefer to keep its natural curvature and rather twist 180° to prevent being bent against its nature. But that introduces a lot of extra friction.

1 Like

The X2D was the first printer I owned in that build area size, let alone from Bambu so no idea if what I see is normal or not. The only thing I can compare is the AMS loading in H2’s vs X2D’s (which is a stark difference).

Are you saying the AMS loads the X1C just like it does for the X2D ? If so, then that’s much more reassuring as it’s just a difference between the machine types and nothing to be alarmed about.

Yes, X1C and X2D have exactly the same filament path at the back.

1 Like

Yes.. I understand that., I was more talking about how the AMS sounds when doing so. I’m just not used to the AMS struggling with one printer and sounding completely different on another series. Sounds like it’s the same though!

Thanks

1 Like

I have X2D and pushed around 400 hours (one of the review units with additional scrubber) and it’s one of the best machines. I don’t use multicolor printing at all. I use dual nozzle for support material, and that’ how I’ve been using it on H2D. Prints are a bit faster and nozzle swapping are simpler and just feels more reliable due to the simplification. I’d put X2D for dual nozzle printing way more above than H2D.

Although, it does have a few challenges, primarily due to the legacy design and constraints from X1 chassis.

1 Like

Thank you for the very real life review! That is exactly the information that all the reviewers on YouTube completely are leaving out.
My X2D only has printed the onboard benchy before we left for vacation with the family. I was still unsure if that was a good buy, but after your review I’m again looking forward eagerly to making it ready and explore the new capabilities. :blush:

1 Like

I also have the additional scrubber! I think itMs great, I have no idea why they decided to remove it.

I’m curious why you place it above the H2 machine? I would think they’d be basically at the same level, but the H2 just for bigger prints realistically.

I have two nozzle scrubbers. Who among us only has one on their machine?

All 4 of mine have 2 nozzle scrubbers as well. All ordered within days of the announcement.

I wonder how many machines they made before the switch?

Bigger doesn’t mean better. H2 is a way more complex machine with a complicated toolhead. It has more compromises that makes the experience less enjoyable.

It’s like a big behemoth, loud, clunky (filament cutter pegs), always blasting fans. X2D is small and nimble, easier to start, takes less time to warm up, etc.

1 Like

Only the first batch has it.

Wonder why the change?

I ordered mine a few days after announcement as well.

From what I remember reading, they solved the issue of only needing one through software so the 2nd one turned redundent.

My understanding anyways…

I’ve got to say, having seen it in action and picking up PETG off the aux nozzle every now and then during prints, I would bet it’s perhaps because that dingus end might have been harder to have reliable injection molding of the case done or some other manufacturing difficulty.

They “fixed it in software” but I’m running 01.01.00 and the travel move to the brush dingus is still there :thinking:

2 Likes

Agree, there is so much misinformation about 1.5mm being the “fix”. It might be for some machines but not this one. And a lot of people say the P2S is intentionally gimped to make the H2 series look better, etc etc. At least Bambu never claimed it fixes anything and they didn’t even advertise it - CNC kitchen mentioned it and people just reiterate it. My theory is Bambu kept 2mm for P2S because it didn’t make much difference but went to 1.5mm on the X2D to shut people up about it. From my testing, it moves the VFAs to a slightly more annoying speed range and reduces how fast I can do my outer walls.

Some people may have bad P2S units giving more VFAs though.

Here are my test results for those interested:

If you want to do your own tests:

2 Likes