My review of the X2D after 200+ hours

The frogs above are printed with 0,2mm nozzles on both extruders at 0,1mm layer height. I was very sceptical at first if the aux extruder is able to control extrusion fine enough. e.g. on the first layers there are several islands with less than 0,6mm diameter. To my surprise it laid them down really nice.

Did you use default speeds and accelerations? The only drawback I find so far is that the Aux extruder really is considerably slower than the main. Apart from that, it holds up much better than I expected. If I want to see a difference, I have to put the same parts side by side to tell, which was printed with which extruder.

OK, this is very good, can you share what is the experience with AUX nozzle and support materials?

What material mostly do you print?

Loren42

When the X2D was released I jumped on it after hearing the specifications and got rid of my X1C.

So how was the surface finish compared to your X1C?

I also do not have HW problems with my X2D. And also went to the H2 forum and there are many report for quality ( HW and surface ) issues which make sense as these printers are on the same base. And which make me believe the issue is bigger then just X2D problem.

but most people come to these forums to get help with problems while many more are simply using their machines without many faults and you really don’t hear about the good things. This will give you a skewed opinion of the product, so keep that in mind.

I absolutely do not agree with this statement circulating here. In general most people no matter what do not go to the forums! Lets say from all people bought BL printers 10% will go to the forums for whatever reason. Now how the statistic works, if your normal target group is 10%. But from this 10% you have only 1% active in forums, writing topics, arguing, complaining whatever. And 99% ( out of the 10%) passive, just reading. Then active are very few people. Then if after some product launch, you see 10-20-30-50% more topics, this means that we exceed the normal group of 1% but now we have more people forced to write because they hit problems. And statistically this means that actually the problem is real and span over much more people. Then after resolution of the problem all this forced to be active people will go in their passive mode or will disappear. And the forum will be left with only the normally active people. And you will never hear from the 90% which never go to forums, even if their printers blow or burn out.

So where are the topics with surface/finish problems with A1? Of course there are some here and there but you do not have even A1 forum section :smiley: . I just scroll around in the troubleshooting section and there is filled up with HW problems, blobs and etc. But I saw only one for bad finish/walls and it seems to be very different. The A1 group is biggest from all! So it looks like these people have different problems. But it is fair to expect, no matter the hype, that close to 3x times more expensive and newer printer will be able to at least achieve the quality of A1, with the simplest materials. Which is kind of base line here.

Then I clearly see that people which are able to somehow get good results from their printers completely ignore the reports from people which run A1 next to X2D and show much better top layers for example. This actually could ruin someone’s business. Not mine though. It is just wasting my time, which is not free though.

Then you go to the H2 or X2 forums and even in troubleshooting or general topics and you can see tons of different things, and many many top/bottom layer inconsistencies.

Wish you the best with the H2D, and hopefully will serve you for long time, without issues! You may try to print some objects and post picture for comparison between X1 and H2.

I do not have problems with the AUX and PLA aside to it is slow. And for me it is even more consistent end to end and top to bottom.

I had absolute disaster with PETG basic from Polymaker though, but for fairness BL said this Nozzle is not compatible with PETG. Only PETG translucent I think was in the list.

I was able to print some spools for filament with AUX and PETG basic Poly, after maaany calibrations and fine tuning. But it was all over the place with blobs and strings.

I was about to purchase some kits with high flow nozzles but when I saw the prices and multiply by x2 for the two nozzles it does not make sense at all. Seems like accessories are really bread and butter with BL! Then I figured out that high flow is very specific use case for very straight objects. Maybe if someone is printing whole day big enough boxes or plates. So maybe I will get also one 0.6 or 0.8 standard flow but holding for now. Which can be useful for CF/GF filaments and tech/construction parts.

I have one 0.2 ordered to have for small things as letters, small QR codes and etc, as 0.4 is just not enough. Will try also some small toys.

I think that is what Loren42 meant? The vast majority of people (WHO ACTUALLY VISIT THE FORUMS) either go to the forums for help, or occasionally check in if they are thinking of buying the product, like me. But those people are tiny in number, compared to the actual OWNERS.

This is one of the most misguided and misinforming posts on this thread at the moment. I’m sorry, but for the money, the X2D is still, hands down the best dedicated dissimilar support machine currently on the market at the given price bracket. And this is a very important point and term that a lot of people miss while perusing the marketing material. Suggesting skipping it on baseless claims and almost doubling the budget feels disingenuous.

Before going through your points, I want to add that I feel the misnomer of “engineering materials” is the dumbest thing in all of 3DP marketing right now. PLA, if you need a part to behave in a specific way, can very well also be an engineering material. It’s a silly term primarily used to differentiate higher/lower temp materials and in turn also creates a feeling of superiority for some reason in people. “Oh look, I’m printing in PA12, such an engineering material”.

Blockquote

You’re not printing real PEEK on any commercially available printer. As far as PPA, you could probably do it on the X2D if you slow it down and run it at max temp and sure, PPS you can’t print on it. But you’re also unlikely to be looking at PPS (€134/750g spool from BBL) as a beginner/casual 3D printer so why even bother with it as a marketing point. The X2D can and will print most filaments besides some exotic high temp materials, which if you’re actively printing with those either for a product or as a manufacturer, you’re already unlikely to be using Bambu machines due to certification issues.

I don’t think you have any real world basis for this. The fact that it’s on a rail doesn’t necessarily make it more precise. They both have the capacity for the vision encoder plate, both have the PMSM extruder motor so extrusion and motion accuracy would be expected to be the same on either machine. Raw speed and acceleration, okay, on paper the H2S can go 30% faster than an X1C printing PLA with specific settings but ultimately, you max speeds will be dictated on so many variables that the variable becomes a moot point.

Can’t argue with that. But if you have limited space, need for printing huge things or just don’t have the budget, this factor goes away pretty quickly.

You corrected yourself further down that it doesn’t have one.

Any 5525 24V 4A psu is usable with the AMS 2 pro. While not completely invalid, personally, having redundancy on power for a device is better than not. Additionally the X2D can power the AMS 2 pro for drying if you don’t have a print running. If you want to print and dry, then you need the power adapter. That’s partially true for the H2S. It doesn’t print and dry at full power and will decrease dryer temperature if a print is running, meaning of you want to maintain max temp for PA for example, you’re still getting a power brick, or better yet an AMS HT.

Fair, but swiss army knife machines aren’t ever a good solution. You’re better off buying an X2D and a dedicated laser engraver than cleaning your rails from soot after every use.

This is really a thing so many people don’t get, it’s fascinating. We want our machines to move. By transferring the vibrations into the frame, you’re avoiding them being transferred into the part that you’re printing. It works in tandem with input shaping to prevent ghosting and ringing from appearing on sudden directional changes because the movement moves into the frame and dissipates there.

Sure. This is probably your most valid point. I’ll concede, as in the original review that BBL did a crap job on this. I will add however, that most of my feed issues seemed to stem from the AMS hub issue that plagued the early units, once replacing the hub, so far I’ve had 200+ more hours without a single feed issue. Could be anecdotal and it might have been the riser, but yes, this was a bad design choice from Bambu.

I don’t think this is true? X2D also has flap and two air curtain ls for cooling in addition to the hotend cooler? I would like to know more besides direct marketing material whether this is a valid point. I genuinely don’t know enough about this, however cooling has never been an issue with any material I’ve printed so far.

It really isn’t though man. Is it a little bit more to think about when you’re preparing your print, absolutely. Is it unlikely that you’ll be able to load a Bambu handy auto-generated profile and have it print perfect? Yes, because they’re set up to single nozzle supports, so you have to do a little bit of work. But no way with the finish that you get on a dissimilar support print would you be able to achieve that on any machine with one nozzle. And AMS PLA/PETG swapping leads to huge purge and cross contamination.

This model would not have been possible to print with regular supports to the same spec. (ABS/PETG)

Ultimately, at the price point, the X2D still is the king of dissimilar support, and higher temp filaments (excluding exotics). There straight up is nothing on the market right now that compares to it and as I mentioned in the primary post, if this is not a need for you (it was for me) then the P2S is a perfect machine if you’re shopping on a certain set budget.

In one meaning yes, but at the other no.

As what he said, suggest that very few people that HAS problems start to write about it. Which is not correct as from the statistical group this are huge number of active people! Like 5-10 active people out of nowhere are not just few people with problems.

And second his statement suggest that whoever do not write in the forums has no issues, which is also not correct as most people will not write no matter what!

So we can agree that more people are active when there are issues :smiley: .

SquidMan

17m

This is one of the most misguided and misinforming posts on this thread at the moment. I’m sorry, but for the money, the X2D is still, hands down the best dedicated dissimilar support machine currently on the market at the given price bracket. And this is a very important point and term that a lot of people miss while perusing the marketing material. Suggesting skipping it on baseless claims and almost doubling the budget feels disingenuous.

My real life experience with my X2D + as you can see the other topics from different people, this experience is not baseless! Actually your claim is baseless! None of my prints are started from handy app or whatever is its name :smiley: . I will address later your points.

And there is no misinformation! If only one product exist at given price point this does not make it perfect or flowless, right?

Can can you show me some prints from PLA with long straight walls? :wink:

How long do you want it? I’ll print you one tonight if the uno box from the OP photos isn’t sufficient.

To answer your question about surface finish between X1C and X2D (and H2D), my X2D produces about the same quality as my X1C did. My H2D appears slightly better.

Keep in mind that these comparisons are pretty subjective. There are no quantitative measurements, the materials might come from slightly different stock, they are not printed on the same day under the same environmental conditions, and the objects printed are not physically identical.

So, the analysis is not very scientific. However, all three of my machines produce similar results, which means any improvements are incremental, not a technological leap. If anything, the technology does more to expand your reach (i.e., dual extruders, larger build volumes, greater selection of materials, etc.).

It may be that the A1 better produces a higher degree of surface finish, but can not compete with the X2D with respect to multi-material speed or engineering filaments. Does it make sense that the X2D should surpass the A1 in every respect? I would not expect that because they are different machines that have a different focus.

Printing in PLA and PETG. Mostly switching filaments within a print via AMS but also using the aux nozzle for more efficient filament switching to minimize purging. Also more recently started playing with dissimilar filament support interfaces via the aux nozzle. Printing in PLA with the PETG support interface worked well the couple times I’ve tried it.

A lot of people talking about the pfte tube inhibited by the top glass but I haven’t run into any issues yet, or maybe I just haven’t noticed.

I do not need any special prints, just to be long enough to be possible affected from warping for example. And to have top to bottom consistent lines. Not like on one side over extrusion on the the other under extrusion, or some mix of both all over the place. I am exactly looking for consistency.

Also how do you print PLA - open lid, riser, deflectors, profiles or just closed by default?

As there are several threads about how to control the fans and what deflectors and risers to use as by default/as it is, there are many problems with too strong cooling. I have experienced this already, and have failures + defects because of it.

As BL recommend to print with open lid for PLA, but there is no efficient way to stop the fans. As discussed already, there is no any sensor so if you remove the lid the exhaust and aux fans to stop…. which is for sure very smart, the lid is open and all the fans are blowing in the open space!!! But we have sensor on the front door… Now if I manually stop the fans from the menu it boosts the part fan, and after some time bring the left AUX fan back in the game. So you never experienced any issues with that?

I am kind of wondering if we are talking for the same machine :smiley: .

Loren42

JamboBambu

1h

To answer your question about surface finish between X1C and X2D (and H2D), my X2D produces about the same quality as my X1C did. My H2D appears slightly better.

……

So, the analysis is not very scientific.

………..

This is very good feedback, thank you! As we discussed with Alex_vG, it may come that BL has so wide range with QA variation that some are actually good in every regard and some are actually not, and also some are complete failure from the start. This is why the feedback from real users is very important! I do not have 5x X2Ds with 5x from every other model on my disposal to be able to compare them for several months, I do not have even time to do that. But this should be easy task for the community. Of course if the community is made mostly from freelance reviewers … or they are the mostly active then all is perfect and no issues at all. Or the only thing the community is doing is to measure who has the longest extruder :smiley:, and which brand is the best ….. this is normal human nature but does not help with the prints.

And of course we are not scientific here, but if you have one surface 20cm2 and it is different end to end, then it may help to talk about it and discuss it.

Lastly, I rarely used the X2D auxiliary nozzle, except for a few prints that needed support. I started running prints with a 0.2mm nozzle on the main extruder and loved the result, but 0.2mm on the auxiliary nozzle is not optimal. The H2D gives me true multi-color prints with dual nozzles, which cuts down the print time while keeping the resolution.

This, I think is the most important and reasonable question! And by the reading of the BL marketing, reviewers and even Alex_vG review here, ( which is very good BTW, thank you ) I could say yes it should be better. Or at least it has all the needed tech to be better, or at least not worse. CoreXY, heated chamber, filters, fans, good main extruder, useful second extruder … but it may turn out the simplest A1 could do better top layer most of the time no matter what PLA filament throw at it. At least at this point in time. Maybe this will change in the future, or maybe not. And the trap with the price very close to P2S is even bigger. As everyone counts how many things X2D has for few bucks above, some guys sold P1S, go to get the X2D and now we have topics from them :smiley: . And this are real, not some my dreams.

No doubt H2D has better options with the 2x direct extruders but it is also ~3x the price of X2D. Also bigger plate.

And of course if you need to print full chamber with ASA or ABS, A1 is not good option. Although many people use P1/X1s, some of them moded some just heat soaked. It is not perfect but if it works good for you do not touch it :smiley: . And I never said they are good for this task. But for people which mostly print PLA/PETG and TPU at this point X2D is not good choice by my experience. Or you may need to prepare yourself for all kind of tweaks and tunings to make it work as your old A1. Or just live with inconsistent results.

As the things are real if you need to print multicolor PLA and you can separate on plates you can get 3x A1 or A2 + A1 without any AMS-es ( maybe get one AMS 2 PRO at some time for multicolor in one printer like labels or QR codes ) and print 3x times faster and/or bigger compared to 1x X2D with AMS :smiley: . And 3x times faster for 3 days print job is a lot! This is very important for all dragon and fidget printers :smiley: . Of course also for vase, flowerpot, toys and models on plates, all kinds of STEAM Edu stuff and so on. For me AMS Lite is not usable as it will collect lots of dust in my area. I saw somewhere they are preparing second edition with closed AMS, this can be more universal.

So my advise is if someone have P1/P2/X1/A1 and you are happy do not sell them just because of the X2D, that has few more features. If you need ASA/ABS and similar all day long better get H2/S/D/C. If no money and need to print engineering mostly, and 20+ cm plate is good enough size the X2D without AMS PRO ( neither it can dry engineering stuff, nor can feed them ), but either AMS HT or some external drier that can feed.

If you need cheapest option for dissimilar materials and like to play with AUX bowden X2D is also good option. BUT forget about just work/print slogan :smiley: .

I’m “new” in 3D printing and for around 1 year I’m use P1S and make 1000 hours on it(999h) before I’m sell it. I didn’t print a lot of multicolor prints but I’m print mostly ASA, PETG and PLA models… I’m also build some cases for electronic for my projects from PETG Matte material for which I need supports. Printing supports for holes using PETG doesn’t look good no mater how distance I’m use… It just leave rouge surface… Then I’m start using PLA as interface and first few prints has been total disaster because case split in layers where interface layer is print… Then I’m increase purge volume to max 999 and it has been better. If I remember correctly print on P1S take 3 hour and 12 minutes and now on X2D it take same 3 hour 12 minutes. So technically is printing on X2D slower because it have faster initialization than P1S(5 minutes vs. 10 minutes)… But main benefit of X2D is that there is no PLA in case walls and layer adhesion is as must be(Without PLA contamination)…

I have printer now 2 or 3 weeks and first 60-70 hours I’m use only main nozzle and print mostly ASA parts for printer and some other parts in PLA and PETG :blush:Then I’m try print Bambu panda with white PLA on main nozzle and black PLA on aux nozzle. There are some artifacts but I think that it look ok, compared to what I see on forums where users post a lot of worse prints of that panda :blush:

I print mostly models which print few hours but I had also some longer prints like single color PLA print 7h(Full plate of Skadis cable holders), single color PETG Matte print 7h + 10h(Poop chute) everything else using PLA, ASA, PETG are 1-4h prints.

This is some top spool holder printed today with some prototype filament PETG Matte. Top layers has been same sh** also on P1S…

I’m choice that printer mostly because I need for PETG prints support with PLA… Also in future I will need supports for ASA(I will try with PETG)…

Print failures with X2S. I had one when using main nozzle, print small model with ASA and use glue on plate. After few layers model lose adhesion and make small blob on nozzle. Printer detect it, pause print and send notification to mobile app… Later at home I heat up nozzle and remove model & filament, clean nozzle and put back silicone sock(Same one because it has not been damaged)…

Main issues which I had with X2D has been custom filament settings which has been shown as unsupported. When I’m add in filament files X2D printer instead of P1S it has been visible in slicer normally as before on P1S but when I assign them in Device tab to AMS slot it in slicer show correct filament but on printer and mobile app show as Generic ASA or Generic PETG. Printer LCD do not show them even I click sync/refresh button on LCD. In P1S they work normally in Studio and Handy… Only option to get them work has been export them as bundle in Studio, delete them from Studio and reimport them in Studio. Then they work as must :S

This is my current setup. I need to install HT near lower AMS PRO but I need reroute PTFE tubes to left side… To do that I need buffer communication/power extension cable to put buffer on left side on Skadis plate, put FTS on top of it and 4-1 adapter on top of FTS. By this I will also additional decrease current length of PTFE tubes to lower resistance…

Hehe AzureFilm spotted on the rack next to the printer :smiley: , how do you reach the top AMS? :smiley:

Very nice info thank you!

Have in mind ( maybe you know that already ) but if do you use PLA as support for PETG or some other higher temp filament, you may get heat creep to the PTFE tube of the AUX and get in troubles. And to have PLA working good with the AUX it need to be as hard as it could be. But even the PETG plate is higher temp then the PLA HDT. But then it is not recommended to print PETG with open lid. So if you have longer prints you may need to reach for some of the “special” support materials.
I do like a lot that BL has PLA and PETG support material combined. It is crazy expensive by my understanding and feelings. But so far I do not have too much experience with it, as I put the support printing on hold for some time :smile: . But one material for both of them is very good idea.

As I look at the surface quality it looks similar to mine for such details.

BTW do you see difference in the surface quality between P1 and X2? You said the top layer was same “beauty” on the P1 but you mean for the specific filament or in general for all surfaces?

Closed lid, riser with closed air ports, no deflectors. Sample print below printed with BBL 0.2mm standard X2D profile using BBL PLA filament preset and black BBL PLA basic.





The little tray is 100X150 (this is the model) and the long part is just a cube primitive adjusted to 25x234x5mm. No warping, no issues, looks good…

Can you show where why show it? In no documentation is this actually mentioned and additionally, the X2D cooling system brings cool air from outside from the bottom of the printer as opposed to recirculating in chamber air around so lifting the lid kid of does nothing…As far as being able to control the fans, yes, there doesn’t seem to be a clear cut way to do it yet and hopefully it will be added as a feature. However the biggest place this seems to have been an issue for people would be printing a PETG support interface layer on PLA supports as that overcools the PETG. Can be made to work better by adjusting print settings though. Never have the air curtain coolers (or realistically heat re-circulators when printing ABS) caused me any issues during prints.

Any actual warping or part detachment issues I experienced were my own skill issues where I just sorta sent it without cleaning the build plate when it needed to be cleaned and hoped for the best.

SquidMan

Ohh Man, why do you wrote more even then me? :smiley:

Before going through your points, I want to add that I feel the misnomer of “engineering materials” is the dumbest thing in all of 3DP marketing right now.

Agree!

You’re not printing real PEEK on any commercially available printer. As far as PPA, you could probably do it on the X2D if you slow it down and run it at max temp and sure, PPS you can’t print on it. But you’re also unlikely to be looking at PPS (€134/750g spool from BBL) as a beginner/casual 3D printer so why even bother with it as a marketing point. The X2D can and will print most filaments besides some exotic high temp materials, which if you’re actively printing with those either for a product or as a manufacturer, you’re already unlikely to be using Bambu machines due to certification issues.

Ok, X2D is not beginner casual 3D printer, this is a A1. :slight_smile:

X2D is exactly one step before the top in the BL line - H2. Maybe in the future there will be something more in between, today there is nothing.

I have no issues with the price of the filaments! And I am looking exactly at the top tier materials because of the higher HDT. And I do not need to print them in KGs. For example for propellers, flanges, and some adapters. Also some tooth wheels and similar mechanical parts. I am not manufacturer.

Now how real is PEEK or not this is other story. And I am not arguing anywhere if X2D can print or not. It prints, if it is not broken it prints.

I don’t think you have any real world basis for this. The fact that it’s on a rail doesn’t necessarily make it more precise. They both have the capacity for the vision encoder plate, both have the PMSM extruder motor so extrusion and motion accuracy would be expected to be the same on either machine. Raw speed and acceleration, okay, on paper the H2S can go 30% faster than an X1C printing PLA with specific settings but ultimately, you max speeds will be dictated on so many variables that the variable becomes a moot point.

I can agree on that! But you can see it is faster even in Bambu Studio when you slice it with given profile. Most of the time you have the time for the print listed in makerworld model page. And this time usually is faster then what I get in the slicer for X2D. Which makes me think it is in general 10-20% slower than X1/A1/P1/P2. Which can be normal as the head with the 2x nozzles most probably is heavier. Or for whatever other reason.

And BTW after I experienced this “speed” variations, especially with complex models, I have calculated that multiple A1 printers without any AMS-es are much better investment , than 1x X2D with AMS, FOR PLA/PETG/TPU prints. Not for ASA/ABS/PA/etc.

Can’t argue with that. But if you have limited space, need for printing huge things or just don’t have the budget, this factor goes away pretty quickly.

No one can argue with the volume, this is right - no replacement for displacement :smiley: !

Also no one can argue with the budged! :smiley:

Yes, the LAN port was big misunderstanding on my side, and made me even more sad… :frowning:

For the power supply I know that you can use not original but 4A with 24V is not small power supply and it will create even more mess. + why do you need redundancy for unit that you can not use if the main unit is out? Anyway I also said it can dry, but even if you have 1x FAN running you need to wait, until it stop. And as explained many times in other topics the benefit of drying while printing could be that you are preparing for the next print. As drying is not instant or fast. So you really need to go into accessories game, which could easily could burn every budged!

In addition Bambu’s own PLA and PETG support filament need high temp to be dried and can not be dried in the AMS 2 PRO! So you need separate drier only for the support material.

Fair, but swiss army knife machines aren’t ever a good solution. You’re better off buying an X2D and a dedicated laser engraver than cleaning your rails from soot after every use.

Agree, I would like to have H2S/H2D without this “options” which most probably burn budged for development and quality features. And not sure why X2D does not exactly the same specs, at it has basically the same HW, just smaller. So we see market segmentation in play here, which is ugly.

This is really a thing so many people don’t get, it’s fascinating. We want our machines to move. By transferring the vibrations into the frame, you’re avoiding them being transferred into the part that you’re printing. It works in tandem with input shaping to prevent ghosting and ringing from appearing on sudden directional changes because the movement moves into the frame and dissipates there.

Sorry but no :smiley: . If you swing the whole box, you also swing the plate and the detail that you print! You are constantly accelerating and stopping it. And it should move only on Z dimension. If you have stable frame, nothing, NOTHING will swing or vibrate. With this swinging we have ALL swinging exactly as bed slinger. But now in 3x dimensions.

This is why lathes and CNC are heavy as heavy!

Now they made it swing most probably because the frame is not sturdy enough, so they transfer inertia to the whole box, so the frame will swing and not brake. And this is a cheap design, not good design!

The same for the melting side panel, more or less this is a bad design.

PTFE cramped - Sure. This is probably your most valid point.

Yes I can see the traces left on the top lid from it, so no need to be kind of genius to see this. Also it does not really good when you see it cramped like this. It again looks bad design/cheap!

I don’t think this is true? X2D also has flap and two air curtain ls for cooling in addition to the hotend cooler?

I do not see such flap in X2D. And this is why BL recommend to open the lid when you print PLA. Please correct me if I am wrong!

From how I see it X2D get cool air from the bottom - dust sucking device - the exhaust from the middle which most of the time for small models is under the plate ……… yet another design nonsense.

It really isn’t though man. Is it a little bit more to think about when you’re preparing your print, absolutely. Is it unlikely that you’ll be able to load a Bambu handy auto-generated profile and have it print perfect? Yes, because they’re set up to single nozzle supports, so you have to do a little bit of work. But no way with the finish that you get on a dissimilar support print would you be able to achieve that on any machine with one nozzle. And AMS PLA/PETG swapping leads to huge purge and cross contamination.

I told you already but let me repeat, I do not use handy app for printing, only for monitoring! I can not imagine what is happening with the people which try to use X2D with the handy app direcltly :smiley:

Now nothing is easy with the AUX( ok maybe only PLA), and it require a lot of experience to know what support where to put, then AUX to be able to print it. Then Success! It is like 100x easier with similar material, or support but with main nozzle, of course in this case you get lots of waste.

My AUX with PETG for support was able to fail even on the prime tower :smiley: . This is how just a bit more thinking is required :smiley: . And PETG as support material failed in all possible ways with all kind of models.

This model would not have been possible to print with regular supports to the same spec. (ABS/PETG)

I am not commenting at all ABS and ASA!

Ultimately, at the price point, the X2D still is the king of dissimilar support, and higher temp filaments (excluding exotics). There straight up is nothing on the market right now that compares to it and as I mentioned in the primary post, if this is not a need for you (it was for me) then the P2S is a perfect machine if you’re shopping on a certain set budget.

X2D is king of anything :smiley: , it is more like jack of all, master of none! BUT it can be used like this. Then what did you said at the end is exactly what I mean, actually P2S will be better for all else, but the price, the specs, the reviews, the marketing cry get X2D! And people sell their old printers, bought in the feature wagon, and then comes the sadness.

I have a lot filament from AzureFilm… Some boxes(10kg boxes) of ASA, some boxes of prototype PETG Matte, some boxes of prototype PETG-GF, some boxes of PLA Silks(mono, dual, multi colors)…

My height is around 180cm and can reach top AMS but still use chair to load filament… This AMS have static filaments Black&White PLA and Black&White ASA and it is connected to one input of FTS. That way can be used as support material all time if I use main filament in HT or lower PRO…

This gray PETG is as Im write prototype and need to be printed with 210°C(For first layer I use 215°C) so currently I didnt have any issues… Usage of support material is very small because only interface use it, base of support is still printed with main material…

Im mostly print flat models with this specific material and ironing with different settings on P1S didnt bring any good result(Im use one spool only for testing) and then im decide that botom part of cover will be outside of case :grin:

I found one cover printed with P1S and one which I print for test on X2D. Left one is P1S right one is X2D. On right one I just with knife quick remove brim and corners are not as need to be…

Thanks for the samples!

With exclusion of the first one which looks with some under extruded areas, but the picture seems to be with some noise reduction/processing and not clearly to see. All others looks good to me!

I was printing fully closed until recently also. To early to say if it makes big difference.

This is good question though, this days reading actively on the topic I have been over tons of data. Remember it as a table in which for PLA we had open the lid. Will try to find it.

But anyway by basic physics/convection, if you have hot air it will go to the top, and if you are sucking from the bottom and exhausting from the middle, you basically will never be able to cool the top! Exactly because of this H2 has vent on the top. And most probably this is why the aux fan are set to blow like crazy in X2D, as the hope is to bring the cool air from the mid section to the top.

I get more than 40C chamber temp when closed, with exhaust at 80%. And around 30-32 with lid removed, and fans limited as much as I can. The printer is on tiled floor and gets the most cool air as possible from the room.

If you open the lid, or use open riser/valves or flaps on it, you actually naturally dissipate the hot air in the room. And by this you prevent the heat creep in the extruder/ptfe/filament.

And all this fan blowing is the reason why we get parts warping.

These look very close honestly! Thanks for the samples!