I’ve only printed with ASA for one project (spool rewinder), but all the pieces came out flawless. I have an X1C just fyi, but I set my print bed to 100 and put a blanket on top of the enclosed printer. I got my chamber temp to 60+ and I had no warping, layer or build plate adhesion issues at all. I used the engineering plate with no glue.
Sounds like you’re doing everything right.
The Bambu Lab ASA prints really nice but is really hard to get it to stick to the bed. Normal Bambu or Elmer’s glue sticks did not work for me either. I ended buying a small bottle of the Vision Miner Adhesive and it works amazing. I’ve used it on the textured bed as well as a Garolite/G10 bed and both stuck extremely well and came off relatively clean. Kind of expensive but that $20 bottle should last me a lifetime as I get 15-20 prints worth before I have to clean and reapply.
I mostly use Polylite ASA as it prints better, faster, has less shrinkage and no issues with bed adhesion. Also the same price as BBL ASA and is available from Amazon.
Edit: I’ve always used 100C bed temp but I doubt that will make a big difference for you.
The same warping also occurs with the smooth PEI plate at 90 degrees with glue stick. My next attempt is 90 degrees, textured PEI without glue stick.
Smooth PEI
Hope this can help. These are my recommendations after lots of failures.
- 100c bed temp
- 30 minute pre heating the chamber after bed temp has been reached
- No aux fan
- 1/2 the fan speeds
- Glue stick (not liquid glue) on texture PEI - Elmers Purple
- First layer printed at 35mm/s
- Brim only for large prints (Like yours)
Here was my initial experience from using Bambu Labs ASA Profile.
The lift is happing most often from warping which is caused due to the pressure release while the material cools down and uneven shrinkage and/or rapid shrinkage. This kind of lift no glue or adhesion method will be solved. I have seen in the forums where warping with super good bed adhesion actually lifts the plate from the base
Suggestions for ASA - more or less the same for ABS
- do you have fully enclosed chamber , without chamber is almost impossible
- make sure that you preheat the chamber and the printer by turning on the heat bed 15-30 minutes in advance. Ideally you want the chamber to be close to 50C , but i usually start when is around 38-40C other wise too long to wait
- I print at 110C bed and 255C Nozzle - sometimes increase to 260 or 265C all other layers , had some warping issues with 100 not aways . For my ABS the print temp is 260C first layer and 270C all the rest, bed the same 110C
- do let the model to cool down very slowly( even if you keep the bed plate at 110C and reducing it every 5 minutes, have seen when in a hurry to open the chamber door and see the Warping and lift of the bed in front of my eyes. around 30-60 minutes cool down is normal. at a minimum just let it in until everything reaches room temperature or close
- slow down the print speed ASA max speed is 140mm/S for a real good print is max 100mm/S
That allows to have better layer adhesion, also releases the internal material pressure while it prints and reduces any warping issues
I preheated the chamber for all my attempts so far. Unfortunately, the print starts warping during the printing process, so I then stop it. I just did a test with the settings from ExtremeElementz but without glue stick. Unfortunately, that also started to warp. The same test is currently running with glue stick.
I’m slowly getting the feeling that there might be something wrong with the ASA. I dried it at 65 degrees for 10 hours beforehand. I ordered 3dlac yesterday, which should arrive today; maybe it will work better with that.
No 0% AUX fan , No 0% Chamber fan - that will cause your issue as well max 40% main part fan at 3s and min 10% at 30s .
Check you speeds that everything is lower than 140mm/S and first layer speed is lower than 50mm/S
Try engineering plate if you have one never had issues. soap and water washed, but some times i put glue to be sure ,and bump the print temp to 110C and nozzle temp 265C
I have really bad experience with PEI plate solved now but still sometimes lifts and usually avoid it
I use only eSUN eASA, but had some issues at 100C and had to increase the nozzle temp by 15-20C from the recommended print temp 240 up to 260C
Also i assume that flow and dynamic flow are good as the prints look ok , but as a last resort you may try to bump the flow by 0.005
But yes i had to got rid of some PETG and PLA as it was bad and non solvable issues
This is max speeds , i usually reduce all numbers above 100 to 100mm/S
I never had an issue with ASA, but I only use PolyLite ASA with the generic profile and calibrated PA and flow ratio. Some info that you didn’t share, but I found critical for ASA:
- Is the filament calibrated?
- 65ºC/10hr doesn’t guarantee that is dry; it depends on the start HR.
- Does the issue occur with other prints?
- Is this the bento box for filters? If so, are you following the printing instructions? I’ve seen identical problems with these print files and other materials. I never printed it, but there are detailed guidelines on how to do it, and as it is a functional part, it may be necessary to follow the maker’s instructions.
- If you trust your plate, use the smooth part with a thin layer of glue. If not, use the Eng or the HT with glue. The textured (at least mine) works well with ASA but is not the best for a functional print.
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Thank you for the many tips. Something still seems to be going wrong. I just can’t get a handle on the warping. This was supposed to be just a test print with ASA, and I happened to choose the Bentobox. Has anyone else successfully printed the Bambu ASA Black on the P1S with the golden textured PEI?
I have calibrated the flow of the Bambu ASA.
I could try drying the filament at a higher temperature again; I use the Sunlu FilaDryer S2.
All other prints with TPU, PLA, and PETG have had no issues so far. They ran incredibly well on the P1S, even with third-party materials after they were calibrated.
This was supposed to be just a test print with ASA and not a functional part.
This is the original textured PEI from Bambu Lab. I’ve washed it several times with hot water and different dish soaps. I’ve tried it with the Bambu glue stick, 3dlac, and without adhesive, but everything fails. I had actually trusted the Bambu products.
Here are my current settings in the Orca Slicer with which it has already improved significantly, but it’s still not good.
Bambu Glue Stick:
3dlac:
I see that you have not enabled Pressure advance , are you still using automatic will not work on PEI, and not sure if it is done first on other plate is it really going to remember it
Calibrate PA - tower method
my PA for ASA is 0.047 , but what i found is that 0.05 works almost for any ASA and ABS i have , but still fine tune it with tower method
-Plate temp is at 100C , i had some times issues with 100 that is why i use 110C, the actual temp is lower what you set by a few degrees anyway
Make sure that you increase Temp of vitrification to 110C as if you have the script will will cause to turn on the chamber fan
Speeds are well too fast for ASA and for me was causing warping when i started with ASA - either reduce the volumetric speed from 18mm3/S down to 10mm3/S for a test , or change all the speeds down to 140mm/S ( outer wall , inner wall, infills etc )
But I will try on my bambu black PEI ( not the gold one ) next few days and let you know as i still have prints and use engineering plate at the moment .
Edit: all my suggestions were assuming that there is no real problem with bed adhesion with PEI, but if it is, here is a good thread , i like most the sandpaper 400 or 1000 Grid idea from @mikeoxlong420 and from @Rom3oDelta7
I set the max volumetric speed to 10mm3/s and calibrated Pressure advance in Orca Slicer. The result is already better. The maximum bed temperature for the European version of the P1P is 100 degrees.
Warping is still present but not as pronounced as before. The best result I achieved was with an 8mm Brim on 0 Gap.
I also ordered Dimafix, which is supposed to work better at high temperatures than 3dlac.
Perhaps I need to try ASA from a different manufacturer.
Additionally, I cleaned the PEI plate every time with 99.9% IPA
I tried an ASA from a different manufacturer, and it printed without issues using the default ASA profile. I only adjusted the flow and pressure advance. Perhaps I just got a bad roll of Bambu ASA.
Here are my settings, although I still need to reduce the nozzle temperature a bit.
3dlac and no brim
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Great ,
Still your fans speed looks high 80% maximum 60 65%
Replace Support interface fan speed -1 with 80% to 100% you need to experiment there
Not sure with 12mm3/S what is the max speed but if i were you would change inner outer walls to 140mm/S and the infill to around 155mm/S the reason for slow speeds is better layer adhesion and slower print reduces the chance for warping
Also you may want to try different type of infill make a difference
i do not see your brim, but probably you removed it
I printed yester day a box 187x86x28 with 10mm Outer brim zero issues, but did not have infill , only walls , and again my speeds
Do you need help still?
I’ve slightly tuned my profiles for flashforge ASA and they print more than perfectly on my P1S. They all pop off perfectly without glue once it cools down and can print the most file and detailed 2mm x 3mm parts connecting parts.
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Please post your settings. I there is still some variability.
How do you get the plate temp to 110? I just got a P1S and it will only let me go up to 100.
Thanks for all your info. I first warmed the enclosure for 30 mins, then printed using your slower settings and using a 10mm brim everything came out perfect (first test without brim caused warping/uplift).
What I do for successful large ABS/ASA prints:
- 110 bed temp (100 for P1S, the max)
- set it to 110 and let it warm up for 15 min before printing to heat up the chamber
- Set the chamber fan to 0 to prevent cold air from being sucked it
- use SMOOTH PEI sheet. ABS/ASA sticks better to smooth then textured PEI. Textured PEI was made for better releasing not for better adhesion. Alternatively use the engineering plate and NANO plate adhesive, its not a chemical adhesive and works very well, just like NANO tape, its carbon nanotubes and gets stronger with heat.
- use bed clamps as large ABS prints can warp and lift.
- place the prints as far back on the print plate as possible as thats the place with most stable temperature
- Use scotch tape to seal up the front of the printer along the door seams as well as the poop chute (I actually have bambu drawers that seal the poop chute with a down pipe as well as magnetic covers for the belts tensioners) to prevent cold air from entering the chamber
- whatever you do DO NOT OPEN the front door during printing. After its done, let it sit and cool naturally for 20 min or longer so it does not get a shock from the cold air.
These are very good tips. Just an addendum that I find helps to heat up the chamber faster.
- 2a Set the bed to 100/110
- 2b Home the machine which brings the bed to the top
- 2c Turn on the aux fan to max to circulate chamber air over the heating bed.
This is also a great “mod” to keep track of the chamber temp on the P series printers.
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My boyfriend modded his P1P with an auxiliary chamber heater/PID controller.
He has had amazing results printing ASA/ABS with this setup.
It heats the chamber fast and helps keep the temperature stable while the printer exhausts the nasty fumes out the window.
I have encouraged him to design an add on kit to sell to other X1/P1 owners that want to print with advanced filaments.
He is toying with the idea of writing in some x-touch integration for heater control for those that might be using the x-touch.