I want to print on both sides of a poker chip. Obviously the first side is no problem, but then, I want to flip it over and print on the other side without a crash. The chip will be 3.3mm thick when the first side is face down on the PEI sheet. How can I do this? Any help will be appreciated.
Why do you need to flip it?
Flipping won’t work BTW. Once it is cool enough to remove, it is never going to stick again and will not go back in exactly the same place on the build plate and unless you use something like glue to keep it down it will fly off the build plate the moment the print head hits it.
You can print the whole thing in one go.
So you want to 3D print on top of an existing poker chip? That’s the only thing I can think of that makes sense, if you are 3d printing one entirely you don’t need to flip it at all to print the top and bottom.
I’ll probably give it a try printing it on edge. Not very hopeful though of a nice outcome.
Bill it’s going to be almost impossible to print it on the edge and not have it fall over during the print. Are you having trouble coloring both sides in Bambu slicer? You can color one side and then flip it 180 degrees and color the other side if that’s the problem.
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“So you want to 3D print on top of an existing poker chip?”
I guess I didn’t make myself clear. I’d start by printing a poker chip with all the usual detail. Then, I’d flip it over and glue it down and print the details on the other side. I realize I’d have to make some reference marks on the plate so it goes back in the same position. Or, I could even make a jig for the placement. What I don’t know is how to print the second side so that the nozzle thinks the top of the chip is the bed. In other words the z position would have to be adjusted.
You said I could print both sides without flipping it. How would I do that without ugly supports?
Here’s Josh’s chips for reference. No supports are needed, they just print on both sides.
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I am confused as to why you thinking trying to print on the edge or ripping it upside down is necessary.
A standard poker chip is flat both sides.
There are many poker chips available on MakerWorld I didn’t bother designing one I wanted to as it was already flooded with them.
What are you trying to print that is so different to standard poker chips and all the ones already available?
Do you have a screenshot, a 3mf a photo, something to clear up the confusion everyone is experiencing from your description?
He addresses my concern with this statement in his description:
“I also had to adjust a few other settings to make sure the inset on the face facing down, prints nicely.”
You can see where he has negative extrusions which would be no problem when printing face up. I can’t image what “other settings” would enable you to do that on the side facing down. But I’m here to learn and I can see that he did it. I’m going to try his files and see what happens, then I’ll worry about how. Hmm!
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Here ya go Malc.
I hope the picture is good enough. Around the “W” (or whatever it is) you can see a depressed ring. The chip is not just a flat disc. Do you see it?
If you have this depression on both sides, seems like you’d need supports. Does that clear up my question? Anyhow, I’m going to try one of his files and see what happens.
You can do this by inserting a pause code in the layer you want to pause, but I recommend not doing this.
The reason is: once the object is removed from the board, you cannot guarantee that the position will correspond perfectly. And after applying glue again, the object may not be level. (This is why it is recommended to “level the bed” before each print)
Not sure why you need to flip it to print, is it because there are patterns on both sides? For general depressions, it can be printed smoothly face down without support. For example:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/240581
For models that can only be printed with both sides facing up (for example, both sides are relief), it is recommended to cut it in half, print it separately and then glue it together.
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Print split in half. Facing up. Glue together.
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Thanks to everyone! I learned something.
That circular inset around the M would print without supports. The slicer will just create small bridge and / or overhang extrusions across the gap. Printers can bridge surprisingly large gaps without supports depending on the geometry. In this case it’s a rather small distance. Honestly, the only setting I can think of changing based on the screenshot is enabling the Arachne wall generator to perhaps get sharper details.
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That will print without any issues in one go.
Turn off any supports they will not be needed that span (bridging) is tiny that a really old printer could manage, let alone your P1S that could span significantly further without issue.
I recommend you do a really quick simple test to put your mind at rest.
Assuming you have the design already.
Print it as a single colour.
This will print really quickly, will not waste any filament and show you the quality of the ring that concerns you.
Assuming you are doing this in Bambu Studio (Bambu Handy is almost identical).
- When you are about to print, you will see a thumbnail swatch colour for each one used in the model, it will try to automatically match one from your AMS.
- Select the IDENTICAL colour for the two or more colours for each one by pressing the bottom half of the swatch and selecting one from your AMS
The print will likely take around 30 minutes or less and at the end you will know how great the quality will be.
Now you know, you can decide to print one or more. Assuming you do want several, that is the most efficient way to print as the colour swaps only need to occur once for one chip or the same number of times if you can fit 20 on the build plate.
- No pauses
- No gluing
- No printing in halves
- No swapping it over
Just print it.
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Malc: Here’s one that PrinterMcGee pointed me to (Josh3D). I hope you will print it on your machine and show me how it comes out. Mine looks pretty nasty though I’ve made no changes at this time. Wouldn’t really know what changes to make.
MPokerchips_1.3mf (261.3 KB)
Actually, I may give this a shot. Thanks
Looks as rough likely because you’re printing it in one color, so the slicer is trying to awkwardly combine everything?
The inset ring is done in a way to try and force the slicer to do a redial ring of bridging within that inset. It was a little tricky trying to push the slicer into doing what I wanted it to do. The frustrating thing is, that updates to Bambu Studio can throw the setup off some, depending how they tweak settings/defaults.
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I’m strictly a one color guy at this time, no AMS. I have one of those new-fangled smooth super-stick build plates that I haven’t tried yet. I don’t mind using a brim (or whatever) just to see how printing it on edge works.
If you only have a single colour, how will you differentiate denominations?
Normally the value of the chip is included in a secondary colour.
There is a technique that may minimise the issues you see, I will perform a test print.