Very cool! I need that feature! Thanks Malc!
Please post another picture after some refinement with @MalcTheOracle 's suggestions, Iâm very curious how it turns out.
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I havenât done Malcâs variable layer height yet. But hereâs another iteration of the poker chip with a circular pattern detail to make it more interesting.
Iâm lurking on this thread to see the âYou were wrongâ poker chip 
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I am interested in seeing the quality after the brim has bene removed.
Nice progress @BillByrd 
I have had a look at your uploaded 3mf and found that it contains a lot of detail that is superfluous when printing monocolor. That is why it locally ruins the bridging.
A multicolor slice actually looks to be better at bridging than the same file printed in mono:
Layer 5:
Layer 4:
The only areas where I see bridging issues are the s-shape mini-bridges (some circled red).
Comparing that to the weird mono-color slice:
Layer 5:
Layer 4:
So, the artefacts in your initial image are a result of the model.
Itâd be interesting to see how your dedicated mono-color designs would print when lying flat. That may enable you to do multi-color by height.
Best wishes and 
Eno
PS: I enabled adaptive layer height for the first time just over a year ago. I canât print without it anymore 
In theory, it is particularly great when combined with âCombine infillâ. Unfortunately, thereâs no dedicated âMax flowâ just for that. Max flow printing on single infill lines gets messy at lower flow rates than on the multiple walls (unless it disregards the line width when calculating which would be a bug).
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If you print them in ABS with a low layer height, you can do a quick acetone vapor smooth (not too much!) and they will look injection molded.
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Interesting information. Thanks for sharing.
So far, I still havenât tried ABS. I need to do that.
Itâs easier to tell you. Hard to photo. The issue with my printing on edge is that whether you use a brim on textured PEI, or no brim with the new super dooper plate, you end up with a bit of an unsightly flat spot. Everythingâs a compromise.
That was my expectation.
There is one way to get around the issue though, design a model without any need for bridging.
Make the inset (which you want) angled so it is either a 45Âș pitch or a curve so there is no point in the model where a span is required.
Like this, a quick mock-up.
If you look carefully, the insets are tubes, there is no bridging required.
This was one of my early prototype designs. I think I will release a set of these at some point.
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For anyone with an AMS, just use PVA and a smooth build plate
One workaround for the brim flat spot would be to make the chip a 32 sided shape (which has 32 flat spots) instead of a circle. That way the flat brim area will look normal.
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Very nice Malcolm
Very nice Malcolm
I googled PVA but still donât know what it is or how youâd use it in this print.
Yeah, thought about that. My client insists on round. Sometime you donât get what you want, but if youâre lucky, youâll get what you need. Right?
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Nah! Iâm sure PrinterMcGee knows that sometimes you get lucky. He was totally right to expect it to fall over.
Print the poker chip on its face, use PVA supports for the recesses. in the face.
PVA is a water-soluble filament usually used to 3D print dissolvable support structures.
Drop the chip in warm water, the supports dissolve, leaving a nice clean chip.
@BillByrd doesnât have an AMS.
That style will print face down.