#000 should work. Again, only trying to knock off the sheen. This is really not a big issue, and definitely dont replace your machine over it. Get the #000, spray some isopropyl on it and scrub it like youre doing the dishes. Take 30 seconds doing that and your problem should be resolved.
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Have you performed manual flow calibration from bambu studio ?
You might want to run that between different types of filament.
@OrionDay thanks for your swift reply! And thanks for the recommendation. I should be able to get some of the homeimprovement store near my appartement, hopefully I can test it by noon. Else I have some fine grit sandpaper here as well (I think I have a set of 500-2000 or so, but I believe steel wool is better to get into the texture better than a flat sandpaper strip)
@Madness3D I have done that with OrcaSlicer for my aftermarket PLA while it still worked, but it was already ideal at 0. I didn’t test BambuLab PLA (which I use for all tests atm) because I thought they might have tested that to death, haha 
however, I can’t do these tests now anyway, as they wouldn’t stick 
I also want to calibrate flow and K value for the filaments once the machine runs again.
Let us know the results. I have been using the cool plate with liquid glue that came with it with amazing results. But it’s annoying and already had to change the cool plate sticker thing once.
I also thought about using my other pei plate. The ender 3 one should be close to the right size if I put it all the way to the right. It seems soooo silly to have to use sand paper on it out of the box. I wonder if they had a bad batch of plates or something.
I might order another brand from Amazon and try that
No problem. Dont use sand paper, just do the steel wool. I know to others it seems strange, however, as Ive stated previously Ive had to do this to 12 P1S, 8 Prusas, and 2 creality printers in the last year. Thats 22 printers, and as soon as I did that, and just took the sheen off of the textured plates, I never had an issue with prints coming off of the build plate prematurely. I wasnt sure about it myself at first since I read about it on the prusa forum after having a similar issue, but it works, and worked 22 times for me so far. Thats all I can say about it.
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Just to throw it out there. Im sure this isnt the issue. but always be careful not to tap the x axis lead screws with your paper towel. It will spread whatever lube you used for the lead screws onto the bed. Learned this the hard way. When something like this happens, ipa will just smear it around. Soap n water will remove it though(bubbles ftw)
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Use glue stick that comes with the printer. Nothing has ever stuck to my textured plate without it 
Huh, look at that.
@OrionDay I bought the 000 steel wool, got home, scrubbed it the plate, cleaned with warm soapy water and put it in my printer. And those are the results. I did the orange (BambuLab PLA) first, and the black (Elegoo PLA) right after. Default settings for 0.6mm nozzle. The quality of the prints could be discussed later, but they actually came through
So I guess you were right all along. I started the print I initially got issues with again and hope it will come though as well Thank you so much for the suggestion.
@gcosens you should try that as well!
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Another couple things to note;
I have noticed that the auto wipe function doesnt always get the nozzle clean. If it does mesh leveling with a blob of plastic on the nozzle it will not touch the plate at the right height and begin the print job a few mils up from the plate. Best practice for me is always keep an eye on that part and worse case, I have it load the filament, then bring the nozzle to the middle and let it sit for a minute to ooze then wipe it manually.
Also, PLA was always the culprit for poor bed adhesion for some reason. PETG sticks awesome. Just my observation so far. Good luck, and happy printing!
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That is quite the sample size. Looks like I’m getting some 000 wool too lol
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Hi, just received BL X1-C on 14 Dec, 23. Used the cool plate twice with glue stick. First model (scraper handle and holder for included blade) used green BL PLA filament included with printer. Worked great. It was interesting seeing the 35C plate temp during the print. Coming from a Prusa Mini+ and running 63C bed temps, I was wondering about it.
Second print was some 3D Snow flake Christmas Ornaments using the BL cool plate. By the 3 layer they were already starting to peel off the plate. Stopped the print, switched to a $20.00 non Bambu Labs textured PEI plate, cranked the bed temp up to 55 and have been printing now for around 28 hours without a single problem with everything sticking. I have used some hair spray, but most of the time I just clean the plate every once and a while with some 91% isopropyl alcohol. Just my experience, but its working great, and I love this printer!!!
The cool plate is trash
I believe it is the filament… sometimes certain brands just do not work on some build plates. I have a Snapmaker J1 and it just does not like silk pla of any kind. I would not wash the plate in soapy water unless you got it dirty for some reason. The Alcohol should be all you need. I had a similar issue with another brand of PETG with the P1S and the plate, I was able to get it to work by slowing the first layer down real slow. I think 30 or 35 mm/s. After the first layer everything else was good, The fact that you got a clog make me think that filament is not as clean as it could be, I have not tried that brand out maybe try something that is proven. Good luck to you.
Welcome to the forum.
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Hey there, EXACT same problem with my new P1S (Black Friday buy) here. Came after about 20 rather flawless prints. Now just blobs on the nozzle. Strangely the little calibration line in the front of the plate is just fine…
Using just Bambu Lab PLA basic. Had on spaghetti print early on that was high and narrow, after adding brim everything went fine until yesterday. Nothing sticks now.
Ordering 000 steel wool, liquid bambu glue and alcohol now, hoping for the best.
I’ve been using my new P1S for less then 1 month. Good results with PETG but not lately. Poor bed adhesion where it just rips off first layer. Went back to Bambu glue stick and it didn’t stick in the same way. Pulled out a fresh Elmer’s purple glue stick and it worked. I think that Bambu stick gets hard and gummy pretty quickly. I know there are other solutions but I don’t want to use something that makes a mess or is hard to clean off.
Here is my first report - before the arrival of cleaning utensils:
- moved to a cooler room, with a more stable surface
- factory reset on the printer after the firmware update
- deleted the local preset files on my computer
- re-installed Bambu Studio, denying the restoration of presets from the cloud
- flipped the PEI plate.
(Before that I had cleaned the nozzle while stationary and at 250° to get the residue plastic off the tip and did a cold-push tip cleaning. But extrusion seemed smooth before, that did not seem to be the issue)
Unfortunately I did all at the same time, so I don’t know which one did what.
BUT so far the first 142 layers have gone down perfectly again.
Well, as described it was just normal PLA and also prominently the one from BambuLab (which I’d guess qualifies as proven), but the issue was 100% the bed and it’s already fixed, thanks to @OrionDay
My solution was to buy a $25 one from Amazon. Works amazing right out of the box. Going to return the bambu plate I think.