I know this doesn’t solve your issue, however hopefully it will reassure you that you aren’t doing something incorrectly. And should help to indicate there is a defect with your P1S or bed.
I have had my P1S combo since Black Friday. I only clean the textured bed with 99% IPA. Everything sticks very well to the bed unless I touch the bed with my oily hands, then I just need to clean it again with IPA.
I hope Bambu can solve the issues you are seeing quickly. I had an issue with my AMS when I first got it, and it was frustrating considering how excited I was to get the P1S Combo.
I know this doesn’t solve your issue, however hopefully it will reassure you that you aren’t doing something incorrectly. And should help to indicate there is a defect with your P1S or bed.
I have had my P1S combo since Black Friday. I only clean the textured bed with 99% IPA. Everything sticks very well to the bed unless I touch the bed with my oily hands, then I just need to clean it again with IPA.
I hope Bambu can solve the issues you are seeing quickly. I had an issue with my AMS when I first got it, and it was frustrating considering how excited I was to get the P1S Combo.
I’m a bit confused, you answered to a comment where it was repeatedly mentioned that the original issue is already solved - IPA didn’t help at all, steel wool did the trick
Hi. I am a new Bambu owner coming from Prusa printers. I was having the same problem at first. These two things fixed the sticking issue for me.
First I printed using the Bambu pla basic profile and the bed temp was 60. No issues. I switched filament and in the slicer selected a non-bambu profile, then the prints would not stick. I switched the slicer settings back to Bambu and they would stick again. The only immediate thing I noticed was that the generic profile would set the bed temp to 48c and pla would not stick.
I just think the bed needs to be hotter for the textured plate.
Second, this trick works on all printers that I have, smooth pei, textured, glass. A very light coat of Aquanet hairspray. Clean your plate and spray a light coat, just enough to work. Too much and you will struggle to remove some prints. I really only spray once every 3-5 prints if needed.
I would recommend trying the before sanding the plate and ruining the pei coating.
that’s funny, because I rather polish the plate with steel wool that is also used on delicate musical instruments instead of ruining the coat with hair spray
I used the steel wool already last weekend, it just solved everything. And it’s hardly sanding, just “polishing”, but more importantly deep cleaning
I know this will sound stupid. But wash your plate with DAWN liquid detergent. It is such a dumb thing but it works. I believe I heard it from Uncle Jessy on his channel. It was either Uncle Jessy or Johnathan at The Next Layer. You need to use good quality dish soap for some reason. I had the same problem but now I am all good. And I already had some on hand so nothing I had to buy. Good Luck mate.
I’ve had the same issue. What worked for me was washing the plate with Dawn Dish Soap and a scrubby pad, (not too hard) which worked wonders. Then I tried something I read about…spraying the build plate with Aquanet Super Hold hair spray…problem solved and no more issues. I use the hairspray on every build and every filament except TPU or Flex. It’s been a couple of years now with my Prusa MK3 and recently with my BBL X1C. No need to scrub the plate every time either, a quick light spray to touch up from the previous build works fine. But, I do wash the plate after 10 builds or so just to be sure.
Same Same
I use IPA after some prints.
From time to time I use Acetone. I have only structured PEI Plate up to now (my first Bambu will arrive soon )
But be careful with Acetone. It’s not recommended for all build plates and you need personal protective equipment !
Hi everyone, especially @LucMeister who brought this up.
Is it safe to say that the summary so far is:
The textured PEI plate (sometimes) seems to have some factory treatment that makes the PLA stick at the beginning, and sometimes not
At some point in use, the plate assumes a state where PLA hardly sticks at all? Bambu PLA in particular
At that point, the plate needs some really deep cleaning, and fine steel wool seems to do the trick? (amongst others)
If that’s true, I’m currently at stage 2, and not sure whether stage 1 lasted more than 5 prints . From then, I never bothered with PLA and the PEI plate again. I only use the Cool Plate (Engineering plate too, until it wore down) for PLA. And PEI for ABS, ASA, TPU and others - without any problems. I guess it’s because of the higher temp.
If that is true, I guess I’ll try steel wool on one side of the textured PEI, and try to reach stage 3. Thanks to all, I’ll report.
thanks for actually reading the thread, I already gave up on answering every new suggestion (that recommends doing what was already tried in the first post) that the problem is solved x) shame I can’t edit my initial post anymore
Anyway - I can’t put an exact number to when the prints stopped sticking, but it was under 10 I’d guess. I had a 250 euro printer with textured PEI before and never had those issues, hence why I wanted to make it work. And I didn’t believe steel wool would do the trick. But it did. I hope it does for you, too!
This is an interesting thread. I’ve gone through couple hundred hours of printing on my P1S and the texture plate has yet to exhibit any bed adhesion issue with regular PLA. I never “polished” it, just occasional wash and IPA cleaning. I wonder if there are manufacturing inconsistencies at the factory.
I bought my P1P almost a year ago and it shipped with the gray plate and I have had very few issues with PLA sticking to it. The only issues I have encountered are models with not enough bottom surface area for the size of the model.
I just wonder if there is a difference with the gold plates.
Hi LucMeister and others …
Would you be so kind as to say if you have now done more printing successfully after steel wool, than you had done before?
I am interested if the steel wool treatment seems a long term fix or needs repeating.
My P1S PEI is a year old, gets used 2-3 times a week, and so far I have successfully IPA cleaned every month or so. Today it needed a better clean than usual (dishwashing liquid), hence I ran into this thread.
I printed a lot more after the wool than before. I switched back to the 0.4mm nozzle as well (mainly because I noticed how useless the 0.6mm is, on this printer, for my printing scenarios). And I have yet to have a print fail. It sticks very well, I really have to wait to let the plate cool down to remove prints (never have I done that on my last printer, haha)
So I can only vouch for the wool. Hence why I answered so many people in this thread after it was already fixed. Hope it can help you, too!
Hallo Luc, ja ich bin deutscher , wie schließt du denn vom Namen auf die Herkunft… ? Gewagt aber erfolgreich!
also ich nutze von der Marke Schwarzkopf “got2b” das Haarspray “Sprühkleber”. Das bekommst du in jedem gut sortiertem Drogeriemarkt. Das ist eine gelbe Flasche mit schwarzer Schrift.
Ich war auch skeptisch, jedoch ist das die beste Art, die Bauplatte nicht komplett einzusauen, wie das mit dem Kleber von Bambu passiert. Probiere es einfach mal, ich benutze nichts anderes mehr!
Schöne Grüße!
Ha, reiner Schuss ins Dunkle - aber sch ist meist ein Indikator, im Ausland wäre es wohl eher Sasha
Danke für den Tipp! Jetzt ärgere ich mich dass ich es erst jetzt sehe, komme gerade von der letzten Einkaufstour und hätte es noch eben greifen können mein initiales Problem ist zwar behoben, aber es mal probieren und es daher einfach da haben würde ich es schon gern.
Danke für die Antwort, und hab ein paar schone Feiertage
!
. From then, I never bothered with PLA and the PEI plate again. I only use the Cool Plate (Engineering plate too, until it wore down) for PLA. And PEI for ABS, ASA, TPU and others - without any problems. I guess it’s because of the higher temp.