Hi
I have a question and hoping you can help me resolve a bed adhesion issue i’m having on a New P1S i just got this weekend.
Question is about PLA bed Adhesion on the P1S using the Gold Textured PEI Bed plate that was included.
I wash my bed plate to ensure its clean after each print.
I just got the P1S in place of the A1 due to the A1 recall. Decided on the P1S and now I’m having regrets already in my decision.
I wanted to do a simple prints to test it out – first few prints works out great; however, when I expanded the footprint on the bed I started experiencing my prints lifting at the corners, But only on the side where the Auxiliary Cooling Fan is inside the cabinet under the light.
My print is just a star wars themed light switch cover; so its not very tall.
My last attempt I had the glass top off and the door partially open but still seeing the corners curling up. And not slightly but curling a lot which is causing failed prints halfway to 3 quarter way complete.
Is this issue being caused by the Auxiliary Fan blowing directly on my PLA print or is Bambu Labs Gold Textured PEI Bed plate the issue.
Does the Auxiliary fan require to be turned off completely when printing PLA with the top off despite the default settings?
I’m not understanding why this is happening. Never saw this issue with my A1 printer with the same textured PEI plate. The A1 being a bed slinger – moved the bed and hot head at like mach 1 speed and never saw this issue. Hoping someone can help lead me to resolving this.
Thank you
As material cools, it naturally contracts and this can cause bed adhesion and corner curling issues. Printing a brim around the outside (in the “Other” category in Bambu Studio) and using a print plate adhesive will really help alleviate these issues. I now use the official Bambu liquid adhesive, but Elmer’s Purple glue stick also works beautifully.
Thank you for your response - I appreciate it. I’m attempting another reprint at the moment of the same piece - about an hour into it so far. This time i added a brim as well as increased the bed temp to 60 for the first layer. I also put the auxiliary fan to 10% compared to the 70% preset. I’m still wondering if the auxiliary fan is even needed for PLA when the top is removed and door open. I was looking at Bambu’s liquid adhesive earlier as well and will most likely purchase it - I just thought it was odd that I would need a adhesive on a textured plate when I didn’t need it on the A1 which had the same textured plate.
Sure thing. Believe it or not, I actually do all my printing enclosed. I use PolyMaker filament, so I run it at the standard settings for PolyMaker PLA - full cooling, nozzle 220, build plate 55.
Interesting - is that with the auxiliary fan at the 70% setting as well? I just checked my print with an hour left and so far with the changes I made in the settings it appears to be holding; however, there is still an hour to go. I actually purchased the P1S over the P1P specifically for the enclosed cabinet. however, kind of seems a bit of a waste if i have to continue printing PLA with the top off and door open and auxiliary fan turned down or off to prevent my prints from warping. Definitely going to get the liquid glue you mentioned as well to try. Thank you again!
I kept everything at the default settings for the PolyLite PLA filament presets, and I haven’t made any cooling setting changes for the default P1S profile, either. No cooling for the first 1 layer. After that, part cooling fan is at 100%. I have not had any issues at all since I started using the glue.
I just started another print, so I looked at the readout:
Layer 1: Part 0%, Aux 0%, Chamber 100%
Layer 2: Part 100%, Aux 70%, Chamber 100%
I have to get to bed so I can’t report on the remaining layers, but I assume that layers 3-240 would match layer 2. I hope this helps.
Figure anything out on this? I am in exact same boat, replaced my A1 with P1S and having the same PLA adhesion issue on the side by fan. Never needed to use glue stick or anything on the A1.
Hi - Just seeing your message now. I started to adjust some of the settings and found I was still having some adhesion issues that I never had on the A1 which had the exact same build plate as I’m sure is the same as yourself. Here is some of the setting changes I’ve done which appear to be working so far.
I turned off the Auxiliary fan completely off as well as turning off the chamber fan. I was trying to mimic the same environment as the A1 as much as possible. Left the top off as well as leaving the door open. Which to be honest is a little aggravating for me as I would like to keep the door closed. I’m a bit concerned that the glass door will eventually weaken at the hinges by the vibration of the printer an eventually break.
I also set my bed Temp from the default 55 to 60 degrees Celsius for the first layer then set the temp down slightly to 57-58 for the rest of the print.
Hot head temp for first layer bumped up to 225 then left at 220 for rest of the print.
I also slowed down the first layer speed for the outer walls to 40 from 50 and inside first layer dropped speed to 80.
Added a 5 mm brim as well.
Now in addition to all this I still felt the PLA Basic still wasn’t sticking to the PEI plate all that great compared to the plate I had on the A1 regardless how many times I washed it. Even the first test layer wasn’t sticking all that well. Thought maybe it would be the z axis; however, I decided to wash the other side of the PEI plate and then try the other side. Surprisingly it was night and day difference for me; which makes me believe in my case that the one side of my PEI plate was defective. So far my prints are holding very well since doing all this but I have yet to try a tall print which I hope to try soon. I also purchased a cool plate and waiting for that to arrive to see if that plate is even better for PLA prints. I also want to try all the above with the door closed to see if that will still work; as mentioned I don’t trust glass (tempered or not) to hang off a hinge like that when the machine vibrates as it does.
