None oem hot-end,- p1s

My p1s is boring, it just sits there and prints. From spending most of my time ‘improving my ender3’, I’m now having to spend time playing with cad and poking around on this forum. If that get’s boring, I’ll have to do more gardening…

Anyway, I’ve just bought a fan, to try and balance out the aux cooling, and a V3 hot-end and nozzles from Ali Express. They arrived in UK within a week of ordering.

I’ll probably fit the hot-end first, with a 0.6 hardened steel nozzle I don’t need to do any of this, but I miss the fiddling and burnt fingers, and looking for small screws on the floor, etc. It has started well, I decided to take the new hot end apart, and those screws are tiny, and I immediately dropped the first one. Luckily a hard floor, so I could find it relatively easily. I’m not taking it apart any further (there’s no need, but it’s what I do).

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I read somewhere that you can use ptfe ‘plumbers tape’ to seal the threads on the nozzle, makes it easier to remove when hot - anyone done that? Then can you hot tighten at a lower temperature? I rarely change nozzles, a 0.6 hard steel does what I want, but I’ll have to install the hot end, to heat it up to be able to remove the fitted 0.4 nozzle.

Take a pointer from the PC mod community, add several RGB LED strips and set it to randomly sequence as many of the rainbow colours it can achieve.

Who couldn’t love a totally unnecessary water-cooled 3D printer upgrade?

The fact that your printer “just sits there and prints” is surely a good thing?

I’m not suggesting the experience of tinkering isn’t great, but, it working without needing modifications is also great.

You miss the point. It works fine, but I need to improve it until it doesn’t. It then becomes more like the sort of standard open sourced ‘pieces of kit’.

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You wish to get your printer into such a state that only you performing repairs, additions and upgrades will get it functioning again.

Then you get disappointed again because all is great and it just prints.

You then start the “break and fix” cycle all over again.

All the time with an emotional low whilst things are great and an emotional high when things aren’t great.

Erm, yeah, seems perfectly normal and healthy.

Just playing, I’ve met people who enjoy that. At one point I was all about “what can I do to improve (insert any electronics), these days I’m too ill and my body is too broken to achieve things like that. I’m just grateful (for me) that it just works.

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Well, I’ve fitted the v3 hot end, it fitted perfectly. However I did not fully plug in the hot end cooling fan, so got a blockage. (it threw a warning message, a smell of burning paint,and a bit of associated smoke). I removed the .4 nozzle when hot, then removed the hot end and unfixed the cooling fan. Then using a heat gun , I was able to poke out most of the filament with a small hex key wrench. Finally carefully used a 2mm drill, and hand reamed out the rest of it. It seems to be a 2mm bore straight through. I fitted a 0.6 cht nozzle, with a thin wrap of ptfe tape, and tightened at 280deg C. It’s doing a print at the moment. I’ll test it eventually to see if a get a higher melt rate than the previous stock nozzle. I’ve no idea of the heater power, but my gut feeling it is a bit more responsive.

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Given your earlier comments, you must be really happy it broke because you had to get your hands dirty fixing it.

Just like the old days.(well a year or so ago.)

I’ve done the Orca slicer max volumetric speed test, with a cheap pla and the o.6 nozzle. I get 38mm3/second. - about 1.6 times the bambu filament setting. I’ll do some more testing.

I’ve done a few more calibrations with pla and petg, all seems good. I’m not sure how much it is an improvement wrt quality, since I never bothered too much in tuning the previous stock hot end. However, no problems so far, and I think the new hot end is much stronger than the original, not that I had a problem with mine, but there are plenty of instances of them bending, and just falling apart. It does seem that max flow rate is improved. I’ve now started to print the fan case, etc., for the rhs of the case, as viewed from the front (actually the port side, I guess). On the bed of the p1s, there is a plastic tab, towards the front on that side. It doesn’t seem to do anything. Not sure if I could dremel it off. Removing it It would allow slightly improved access to the screw at the base of the printer. I’m basing it on this, BentoFan (Dual fan + independent air filtering for BambuLab P1P/P1S) Remixed by nyx_nk - MakerWorld I bought a fan from Aliexpress, along with the hotend, etc. I’m not bothering with the bento box/support, I’ve replaced that with a plain block support. I’ve not decided how I’ll fix the unit to the case of the printer, probably a couple of self tappers will suffice. When fitted, it should give a more even cooling of the parts.