My p1s is boring, it just sits there and prints. From spending most of my time ‘improving my ender3’, I’m now having to spend time playing with cad and poking around on this forum. If that get’s boring, I’ll have to do more gardening…
Anyway, I’ve just bought a fan, to try and balance out the aux cooling, and a V3 hot-end and nozzles from Ali Express. They arrived in UK within a week of ordering.
I’ll probably fit the hot-end first, with a 0.6 hardened steel nozzle I don’t need to do any of this, but I miss the fiddling and burnt fingers, and looking for small screws on the floor, etc. It has started well, I decided to take the new hot end apart, and those screws are tiny, and I immediately dropped the first one. Luckily a hard floor, so I could find it relatively easily. I’m not taking it apart any further (there’s no need, but it’s what I do).
I read somewhere that you can use ptfe ‘plumbers tape’ to seal the threads on the nozzle, makes it easier to remove when hot - anyone done that? Then can you hot tighten at a lower temperature? I rarely change nozzles, a 0.6 hard steel does what I want, but I’ll have to install the hot end, to heat it up to be able to remove the fitted 0.4 nozzle.
You miss the point. It works fine, but I need to improve it until it doesn’t. It then becomes more like the sort of standard open sourced ‘pieces of kit’.
You wish to get your printer into such a state that only you performing repairs, additions and upgrades will get it functioning again.
Then you get disappointed again because all is great and it just prints.
You then start the “break and fix” cycle all over again.
All the time with an emotional low whilst things are great and an emotional high when things aren’t great.
Erm, yeah, seems perfectly normal and healthy.
Just playing, I’ve met people who enjoy that. At one point I was all about “what can I do to improve (insert any electronics), these days I’m too ill and my body is too broken to achieve things like that. I’m just grateful (for me) that it just works.
Well, I’ve fitted the v3 hot end, it fitted perfectly. However I did not fully plug in the hot end cooling fan, so got a blockage. (it threw a warning message, a smell of burning paint,and a bit of associated smoke). I removed the .4 nozzle when hot, then removed the hot end and unfixed the cooling fan. Then using a heat gun , I was able to poke out most of the filament with a small hex key wrench. Finally carefully used a 2mm drill, and hand reamed out the rest of it. It seems to be a 2mm bore straight through. I fitted a 0.6 cht nozzle, with a thin wrap of ptfe tape, and tightened at 280deg C. It’s doing a print at the moment. I’ll test it eventually to see if a get a higher melt rate than the previous stock nozzle. I’ve no idea of the heater power, but my gut feeling it is a bit more responsive.
I’ve done the Orca slicer max volumetric speed test, with a cheap pla and the o.6 nozzle. I get 38mm3/second. - about 1.6 times the bambu filament setting. I’ll do some more testing.
I’ve done a few more calibrations with pla and petg, all seems good. I’m not sure how much it is an improvement wrt quality, since I never bothered too much in tuning the previous stock hot end. However, no problems so far, and I think the new hot end is much stronger than the original, not that I had a problem with mine, but there are plenty of instances of them bending, and just falling apart. It does seem that max flow rate is improved. I’ve now started to print the fan case, etc., for the rhs of the case, as viewed from the front (actually the port side, I guess). On the bed of the p1s, there is a plastic tab, towards the front on that side. It doesn’t seem to do anything. Not sure if I could dremel it off. Removing it It would allow slightly improved access to the screw at the base of the printer. I’m basing it on this, BentoFan (Dual fan + independent air filtering for BambuLab P1P/P1S) Remixed by nyx_nk - MakerWorld I bought a fan from Aliexpress, along with the hotend, etc. I’m not bothering with the bento box/support, I’ve replaced that with a plain block support. I’ve not decided how I’ll fix the unit to the case of the printer, probably a couple of self tappers will suffice. When fitted, it should give a more even cooling of the parts.
Wish you lived around the corner from met. I am not a tinkerer and don’t know the first thing about printers. And now my brand new (5 prints only) P1S stopped delivering. All I get is bad prints. Would love it if you could take a look. But you will probably live half way across the world
Folk on here will most likely help, if you can describe in a bit more detail; what is happening, and if you are prepared to learn. Best if you start a new topic, state if you ever got a decent print. The first should have been one on the sd card, using the supplied filament, and it should have been OK. If it is too much of a faff, and you are disappointed in what you have achieved, then return it from whence it came, and get a refund.
Agreed. Give us more information.
You probably cannot post pictures yet, but when you can, post a few pictures of what your prints are looking like.
Most newer folks to 3D printers either have issues with “wet” filament or “dirty” bed plates as their first problems to overcome.
The new fan unit fits nicely, almost needs no fixing, but brackets are moulded in with holes that exactly line up with p1s frame. From the discord that I sometimes visit, it was pointed out that the tab is something to do with the lidar on the x1, so it is not required. There is about 1mm clearance between that and the new fan housing. As it happens, the author of the design was aware of that and he’s added slimmer parts to his design. I can’t be bothered to reprint, there is clearance at the moment, but if it gives a problem, I’ll slice off the tab. I’ve yet to remove the back panel, and decide how to jumper in the new fan wiring.
The printer is definitely not designed for easy repairs/dismantling. Everything is fixed with small black screws, all looking the same, but they are in fact different. There is no need for that small variation in screw sizes. For example, most pc cases I’ve come across can be opened by releasing a couple of thumb screws. It must cost a fortune purchasing/storing/installing the different screws. Inside the case, the various board locations, etc., it looks very much as if it was a rush job, or designed by a committee.
Although some screws fell on the floor, and are lost for ever, I will still have a few left over. Anyway, the extra auxiliary cooling fan is fitted, which should even out the cooling.
How far have you actually taken apart a p1s? It was not much of a problem for me, if that is what you were inferring, I was commenting on the daft design of the fixings, the screws could all be the same size, and use a thread profile designed for fixings into plastic, and far fewer of them.
As it is, there are three different types just to fix the back panel, different again for the side panels, different for the poop shoot, and also for the cable cover. some are thread forming, some are more generic self tapper profile, some need 2mm hex key, others 1.5mm, lengths vary by half mm, a few are much longer.
Oh, I’m sorry, I’ve only upgraded to a P1S from a bone stock P1P. Replaced the AP board twice (my bad), among a few things. Guess I don’t have the experience you have.
My bad.
Don’t worry, as you get older, you will get more whingy and more right wing.
When taking the printer apart, it helps to put a clean white sheet on the floor, or have a jeweller’s apron, and press the screws for each assembly into a sheet of paper, possibly a photo of the assembly. I did none of that. The threads in the plastic will most likely strip if you put a 4.5 mm length screw in a hole designed for 3.5mm. (BBL say they want to be like Apple, - well, Apple laptops have the same ‘problem’ wrt screw sizes).
