In the past on other printers I’ve found garolite (aka G10 and G11?) and a build plate product called GeckoTek to work the best when printing Taulmans Alloy 910. GeckoTek is experiencing supply issues so alot of the sizes they offer are out of stock. I may have some extras around for my CR-10S’s I could always trim to fit a plate if needed.
What options do we have with PIP? I see a high temp build plate for sale on Bambu Labs website but I’d rather not experiment anymore considering all the past history of what worked and what did not and if there is no mention of Garolite I’m off searching another corner of the net.
I found one post here that appears to still be unresolved regarding Taulmans alloy 910.
For now I’m thinking of getting a bare or smooth surface build plate from BL and then trim down some 300x300 GeckoTek and apply it.
TIA for any help or advice or experiences with nylon.
Just discovered VPS Data had a kickstarter sometime ago for just this, a garolite build surface for Bambu Lab printers. Bummer though the link to their store is currently down.
I was able to print on Textured PEI with nylon and 3D LAC, but larger prints lifted. I then tried Engineering Plate with Dimafix (@110ºC) and it worked very well, no lifting and only slight deformation when removed that could be because of bananabed. I guess it would work on a clean Textured PEI sheet as well but haven’t tried yet.
Any update on printing Nylon on Textured PEI plate? I’m trying to print PAHT-CF on the textured plate but getting lifting. I see that 3D Lac has a spray formula, any idea if hairspray is a good alternative?
I tried the Textured PEI plate with Magigoo for PA and it seemed to work. but the print wasn’t excessively large. I mostly print Nylon on Engineering plate with Magigoo PA now.
Try whatever hairspray you have, but I would just buy 3D LAC, it works quite well and washes easily.
Are you letting the chamber heat up to 40ºC or more? (I usually aim for 45ºC). PAHT-CF is much less warpy than regular PA, and also sticks quite well. I just got a spool of Fiberlogy PA12 and while the prints are pretty much indestructible (though a bit more flexible than I’d like), it doesn’t want to stick to anything and needs large brim everytime, compared to that PAHT-CF is “easy”
Gotcha thanks for the input. I tried the bambu liquid glue and it seems to work a lot better than without (for some reason I thought nylon didn’t require glue on the textured build plate but I was way wrong lol).
Also side question… I am using these nylon parts for inside an engine bay of a car, so somewhat higher heat and lots of humidity (down here in Florida). My question is warping: These parts shouldn’t warp once printed and cooled as long as I stay under their temp resistance right? The only time they are likely to warp and absorb moisture is when printing?
Nylon wouldn’t be my first choice for this actually. Nylon doesn’t “warp” with temperature or humidity, though when it gets to equilibrium with moisture absorption it gets more flexible (which actually makes it tougher), but nylon also deforms under constant load. But I guess it depends on what your part is actually used for, maybe something like NonOilen or other PHA blend would do just fine?
Or what about ASA or ABS? Just test what it does over a few months when it comes to resistance to oils and stuff.
It’s not a good idea to generalize a material anyway, manufacturers use different blends and additives so look at their datasheet to see whether that particular material has the properties and resistances you need.
As a little side note and a disclaimer, I just tried Fiberlogy PA+GF and liked it very much, looks perfect for such use and printed perfect, but bed adhesion seems to be a problem and that constant load is an unknown to me. I’m not printing that many functional parts, I just like to try stuff so I’d say just do your own testing…
