I know this topic has been covered in some depth, a lot of which I have reviewed before making this post. I seem to have on going issues trying to dial in my BL PETG CF filament on my X1C.
So far I have:
Slowed down the settings:
Adjusted the extrusion and bed temperatures (255 first layer, 260 there after, 70 degree bed temp)
Adjusted the cooling settings: Min fan speed threshold 40%-20s, Max fan threshold 80%-6 secs, Cooling for overhang threshold 25%, Fan Speed for overhangs 90%
Calibrated the filament manually for both flow rate (0.955) and flow dynamics (0.036)
Turned on Arachne wall generator
Order of walls: inner/outer
Adjusted the wall overhang speeds to 0, 20,20,10
Tried lowering the sock on the nozzle
Tried adjusting the Gcode for G29.1 Z0.03 (But I wasnât happy with how the bottom layer printed, so I reverted it back to normal)
I am still getting filament stuck to the nozzle which drags itself over the printsâŚ
Can anyone assist me at all please as Iâm going out of my mind.
In the middle of a print which I intend to let finish, but I will show you the outcome as soon as its done.
Prior to every change, I printed a calibration cube every time to monitor the changes in the printâŚI have also attached a picture of these to this post.
Thatâs a lot of extra plastic in those strings? If you extrude some filament manually does it go straight down or does it go to a side or curve?
What does the slicer show for travel in that area? What do you see the printer do when those large strings occur? Does it ooze out the hotend at the same temperature just sitting there?
First let me say thanks for the thorough post, it makes helping out a lot easier when we donât have to play 20 questions. Youâve answered most of them already.
Possibility #1 paint the seam in another location
I think @NeverDie is on to something and I might suggest painting the seam into another location. This is where Orca Slicer excels in that it allows for a constrained linear seam which Bambu Studio 1.8 currently doesnât have.
This one feature will allow you to draw a perfectly straight seam and eliminate the seam as a variable. It has the added advantage of ensuring that the nozzle head is not changing layers near the corner where if I were to guess, thatâs where the seam may be currently located.
From the looks of your model, I think youâre asking a lot of the technology. If I do some quick scaling using 5 layers as a measurement, it would appear that your model is asking for a 1mm-1.4mm width. Thereâs an old saying in CAD; âJust because the engineer can draw a pretty picture on the screen, doesnât mean that it can be built in the real world.â This may be the case here. Perhaps dialing down to 0.08 layer height may prove or disprove this theory but itâs worth a shot. It wonât change the thickness of those veritical bars but it may give you that extra boost in resolution allowing you more tolerance. It will also quadruple your print time so this tip doesnât come without downside.
Printing a whole model wastes time, filament, and money, as youâve likely experienced. When a print fails twice, I cut out the problematic section using the slicerâs tool to experiment with smaller parts. This saves spool and printing time. You can also adjust settings individually for each smaller model on the plate. Remember to set the âPrint Sequenceâ to âby modelâ for different settings on multiple models.
Note: Youâll also be confined by space and youâll have to manually space the models further apart or the slicer will complain that they are too close together.
Make a base using a cube primitive and make it 1mm tall and width and length to capture your model.
Cut out the middle part of the problematic area of your model.
Place the plate under the model so that the model section has something to rest on.
Use the right-click assemble tool to merge both parts into one testable unit.
Test the small test model using the original settings to verify that your test model will reproduce the problem.
IMPORTANT: Test this smaller version before attempting the steps outlined above. Otherwise you wonât be able to narrow down the problem because too many variables are in play.
Are the lower layers normal, or does the higher the height, the worse the quality?
If so, this may be because the print path looks like a dotted line, or like continuous âislandsâ. When the nozzle moves from one âislandâ to another, it will hit the printed wall, which will make the model shake. The higher the layer, the greater the amplitude.
PETG material is very strong after it has completely cooled, and even a slight scratch can cause the part to shake.
Decrease speed. 2. Turn on the âAvoid crossing exterior wallsâ option. 3. Turn off all fans and reduce the cooling speed.
Thank you to all of the above for the replies and sorry for the delay in reply, I ending up having quite a late night and have only just managed to get myself out of bed.
I had checked the seem location prior to posting this thread and can confirm it isnât in the location of the seam. I will provide some further pictures from the slicer later today when I am home.
I can confirm that filament does indeed ooze out of the nozzle at standstill when up to temperature. I havenât noted that this oozes in any other direction than straight down, but I will also have to double check this. I do seem to get alot of filament stick to the nozzle during prints.
With regards to the layer height of the model, I thought it was recommended not to print carbon fibre filaments at less than a 0.20mm height with a 0.4mm nozzle? Maybe for this application the PETG filament isnât best. These are desiccant dry boxes for my AMS downloaded from maker world.
I will try slicing the model as described and reprint the problem sections.
Thank you for all the help and suggestions. I really appreciate it. I will update this thread later today with the results
If you suspect that the nozzle temp is behaving incorrectly then you may want to look at possibly removing and cleaning off the thermistor at the nozzle tip and apply fresh thermal paste. While I highly doubt that this is the culprit, it will at least eliminate incorrect nozzle temps being reported. I am somewhat bothered by the oozing though. Does it happen when the printer reports nozzle temps at rest, letâs say below 100c?
In the words of Ronald Reagan when it comes to ârecommendationsâ, âTrust but verifyâŚâ. Ah⌠bullshit!!! Donât trust any recommendations you havenât personally tested out. If 0.20 is recommended, then try 0.16, then 0.08 but either way, experiment on models and see for yourself.
We all love the Benchy because everyone understand it and it is probably the first thing we print. However, there is another model I like to use as the torture test. That test model is the Polymaker PolyPearl Tower. If you havenât already tried it, itâs where the men are separated from the boys. If you can print this tower without flaws at super high resolution, youâve mastered your machine and filament.
This tower is to the Benchy what the Benchy is to a cube. It will show all of the flaws in the printer tuning. Hereâs an interesting writeup on what to look for in the model.
I would say from what I see in the picture, you are trying to print a very fine / detailed structure, with a âcoarseâ material. Anything CF or GF requires a larger nozzle, meaning line thickness and width can only be so-small and thus you can only achieve a certain level of detail / precision.
I take it you:
dried the filament well
calibrated pressure advance (for reference, my calibration is at .030)
calibrated flow rate (for reference, my calibration is at .95)
There are a few additional things you can tryâŚ
set seam position to ânearestâ
set order-of-walls to âouter/innerâ
adjust volumetric flow down a bit⌠my BL PETG-CF is set to 10
adjust line width to something narrower (say .3, or .35), but keep in mind that will cause issues on the sloped / overhang surface)
adjust thickness to .16 or .12
I run my print temp at 255 for all layers for PETG-CFâŚ
I am going to play about with the settings again tonight.
Is it really worth using orca slicer over the Bambu slicer? At the moment I find the extra settings in Orca a little intimidating when I am still trying to get my head around the Bambu version.
Pressure advance is the only thing I havenât set as there is no option to calibrate this in the Bambu software. Could you please explain a little more what this does? I think I am probably missing this important step. Also, if I set it in Orca Slicer, will the settings transfer over to the Bambu slicer?
The filament has been dried on the headbed, covered by a box for 12 hours at 70 or 75 degrees C
My flow rate is calibrated to 0.955
I had read a lot of reports about setting the walls to inner/outer. Is there any reason why you suggest the opposite? Iâm not questioning your knowledge, I would just like to gain a better understanding thatâs all. Would pressure advance also give a better quality bottom layer. I still find small holes in the infill on the bottom layer where the filament touches the edges.
Would you purchase a panasonic tv then a sony remote to work it ?
the way i look at it is they come as a callobrated package , bl, bs b,handy makerworld.
This is how I feel. Just read so many comments before about using orca slicer over bambu slicer.
How would I go about adjusting pressure advance in the bambu slicer please? Is there anyway of doing this? As this seems quite an important setting to adjust to get the prints spot on.
Why did Bambu build their slicer on PrusaSlicer? Maybe because it works?
OrcaSlicer is built on Studio with additional tools and settings. Think of it like an extra setting for Studio - you have the simple basic settings, there is an Advanced slider, and then there is Orca. If you donât understand the extra options, leave them alone. The settings you do understand will look and work exactly the same as they do in Studio.
The ONLY thing OrcaSlicer does not do as well or better than Studio is integrate with MakerWorld (which I see as a plus).
For the OPâs problem, the additional OrcaSlicer tools that matter are in the top-line calibration menu. Tests are built in for temperature, pressure advance, flow rate, retraction, and other settings. By testing a range of settings for a single parameter at a time, you can dial in the optimal combination for any filament. It is much easier than printing âcubesâ which donât tell you what needs to change, or how much, or in which direction. The Wiki explains how to interpret the results and make them a part of your filament presets.
@Kingtruff88, I think calibrating the filament might help with the columns of the model. Parts of the print look pretty good, so I donât think your settings are too far off. OrcaSlicer lets you narrow the range to test, so I would only test a few steps on either side of your current values, then maybe test a few more steps in that direction if the best result is at last value tested.
I have no idea what is causing the âsnakesâ in the corner. Youâve already said this not the seam location. I donât think oozing can be the main cause - why does the nozzle stop in that location long enough to deposit so much material?
Actually, Bambu did not include all the functionality of PrusaSlicer. They dumbed it down to keep it simple for consumers new to 3D printing. OrcaSlicer has restored some Prusa features (like the Measure tool) and added others.
