Looking at the Wiki, there are some situations where it’s recommended to remove the glass top during printing, apparently to reduce heat buildup in the chamber. Is this something people really do? It seems hard to accomplish with the AMS parked on top. Do you need to move the AMS off to a shelf or something so you can open the top? Is it ok to just prop the front door open instead? Or is this just a suggestion and not all that necessary?
I don’t have an AMS but every time I print PLA the top is removed and the door is opened halfway. (I wish the door was quick disconnect)
People with the X series have a sensor that monitors chamber temp inside those printers so they can keep it shut and top on because the chamber fan helps regulates the temp.
When I print with PLA I will use the Cool Plate, Bambu liquid glue, and open the door. Printing with PLA is rare with my P1S for me…I have never tried the textured pate for PLA since the temp is 55C and the AMS is on top, but im sure you can get away with it as long as it’s not in a hot garage.
I do exactly zero of any of that and use the PEI no glues turn the heat down to 35 and leave it closed up with my P1S
On the Bambu website, it has a comparison chart for the models. It lists both the X1-Carbon and the P1S (my model) as having the Chamber Temperature Regulator Fan with Closed Loop Control. But on the Filament Guide in the wiki, it doesn’t say anything about that fan, or only needing to vent the top if you don’t have the regulated fan. So it seems like you still need to vent the top?
Just got done printing a poop chute from PLA at 55° bed temp. 9.5 hours and no problem without venting the top. But the Filament Guide in the wiki “recommends” opening the top for PLA if the bed is above 45°, and PETG if above 70°. Apparently the added chamber heat makes it difficult to properly cool the top of the hotend and avoid heat creep. I also see that there are lots of designs on Printables.com for AMS risers that fit in place of the glass, lift the AMS several inches above the top, and allow the glass top to be placed inside the riser, either at the bottom to close the chamber, or at a higher level to vent it. Guess I’ll print one of those.
Good point, I’d be pretty upset if the P1S has closed loop control since that would mean that those of us who purchased the P1S upgrade kit wouldn’t have a sensor monitoring the chamber temps.
But I’ve always used this guide: Filament Guide | Bambu Lab Wiki
When it talks about the glass transition temp for PLA being lower to remove the top and open the door. Maybe things have changed now and they haven’t updated the wiki?
Could be. But on Printables.com the AMS riser/vent designs are all shown photographed on either the P1S or the X1-Carbon models. So apparently people are following the open-top guidelines for both these models.
Don’t worry about that. I don’t care anything about what they recommend. I print the PLA from bambu with closed case and doors, use PEI plate at 55°, my temperature inside won’t get above 35 degree and get perfect results. Bridges and no support works great.
Here some examples. Phil was printed with green Bambu PLA in 40 minutes. Size 70mm without any support. Also my chock. Very small and tiny. Watch the perfect brigde
I was having issues with one of my P1Ps with heat creep while using PLA and PETG when I first installed the Arc enclosure since I had a 12v Noctua fan with a buck converter while using the textured PEI plate at 65C with PLA and 80c with PETG witch was the main reason for the problem. I switched to the Bambu 24v chamber fan down the road but this is the print that solved my problems at the time. Also then temps are all lowered in the filament profiles with the P1S.
Printables.
I definitively had problems with PLA, using the textured PEI plate, and closed top. The filament softened too much, so that the extruder was not able to fully grip it anymore, and it just under extruded.
My solution is the cold plate with glue stick, as I have built a venting system to filter any fumes from the printer, I do not want VOC or ultra fine particles in my living space. This works great for me.
If you have a well ventilated area, there are also some cool models on printables:
https://www.printables.com/de/model/564394-bambu-lab-x1c-ams-stand-v3-with-accessoiries
I have printed it just because it is so handy to store the plates in, but they also have holders to just store your glass sheet. That way you can still easily switch it but still have the AMS on top of the printer!
Thanks for all the replies. Sounds like there’s a variety of experiences. I decided to go ahead and print one of the AMS riser designs so I can vent the top if needed.
Well, sorry to say, but according to BL’s comparison table, the P1S DOES have closed loop control. Scroll down to the table. The closed loop control board is listed as optional for the P1P, so I guess it can be upgraded.
https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/p1s
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At a bed temp of 55-60 C, I’ve had no problems using PLA from several manufacturers with everything from little to big parts. I did prop the lid open a couple of times to try it out, but noticed no difference.
Whether or not you need to prop it open may also have to do with the room temperature. My printers are in a small room in the basement. The temperature is a pretty consistent 65F in the summer. In winter, it can run around 60, because the heat vent in the ceiling doesn’t provide a lot of air as it’s the last, and the furthest one away from the furnace. (Had to make an enclosure heater for my resin printer.)
Propping the front of the top open when you don’t have an AMS is not a good idea to me unless you make some “stops” to screw into the top of the frame on the back so it can’t slide off the printer if bumped.
Yeah they are just playing with their words, only the X series has a sensor that monitors the chamber temps. Otherwise P1S users would have a reading on Bambu Handy and Bambu Studio but they don’t.
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Closed loop can be applied in more than one way. Open loop controls have no feedback system, closed loop ones do. Can be temp, speed, position, or other factors.
I work on systems where you give the control point a desired value and it applies what would be appropriate for that position or speed and reports back the device is at that value. Only thing is, it’s an open loop, so the controller just “assumes” the device is running at the desired setting. It can be completely dead and you won’t realize it until something in the process is off.
And the same device can be equipped with a feedback loop that reports the actual value it’s running at to the controller, which then uses a PID loop to adjust it to the actual setpoint desired.
So, for the fans, closed loop can mean more than just looking at chamber temperature.
