So filament is coming out of the extruder…i can easily hit the extrude button , no issues and i have made sure to watch it come out with out an issue…i also checked for clogs and did a cold pull then ran some hot end filament cleaner as well through the extruder…i then send a print and its goes through the bed leveling touching points well, but then when the actual print process starts, its like about 5-10 mm above the print bed …I Have tried sending a print through studio, i have tried printing a benchy right off the SD card so i could stand right in front of the computer and eyeball it go through the leveling process wonderfully …then when it comes to actually start printing, bed drops a little and it starts feeding filament and printing clearly above and not on the print bed…front the 1st layer line…so it gives spaghetti…
I have calibrated and re calibrated multiple times and i have not done an update in about 3-4 weeks. Turning it off and restarting does not resolve and again it actually passes the calibration test wonderfully but for some weird reason when it starts to print it is visibly not next to the surface of the print bed.
condition of nozzle should be good (but after i posted this i also swapped out the extruder gear and the nozzle to hardened steel .04-and am currently re calibrating yet again) i was using it yesterday without issue…this is a sudden thing not a degradation issue …
using .04 standard nozzle
build plate has been both the black textured and gold textured pei plate (i do not touch my plates unless holding by the sides AND even then i always buff the surface of my plates with a clean t-shirt before printing.
Z axes screws are clean (and clean with a tooth brush/t-shirt and then re grease LIGHTLY )
And yes , during calibration, it is meeting the bed (it actually taps it and i see it make contact…i used a marker on the area where it wipes so as to see if the ink would come off (cause it touches the bed firmly in that spot and it has rub the ink off so it is making contact for sure during the calibration process
mine was doing that but i was having sensor123 issues when i unplugged all the bed cables for a week before my new cable came in it started working just fine so i would try unplugging the heatbed and if that doesnt work it might be the heatbed main cable
Is the condition of your nozzle good?
What nozzle are you using?
What build plate are you using?
When you notice the bed leveling, do you see the actual nozzle make contact with the bed?
Are your Z-axis screws clean?
Edit: Also this does not appear to have any relation with your headbed. Please disregard the reply above as they are trolling. Report it as an inappropriate post.
condition should be good i was using it yesterday without issue…this is a sudden thing not a degradation issue …
using .04 standard nozzle
build plate has been both the black textured and gold textured pei plate (i do not touch my plates unless holding by the sides AND even then i always buff the surface of my plates with a clean t-shirt before printing.
Z axes screws are clean (and clean with a tooth brush/t-shirt and then re grease LIGHTLY )
And yes , during calibration, it is meeting the bed (it actually taps it and i see it make contact…i used a marker on the area where it wipes so as to see if the ink would come off (cause it touches the bed firmly in that spot and it has rub the ink off so it is making contact for sure during the calibration process
so after the extruder gear (gears wear clear but gross-swapped out for hardened steel) and hot end swap (.04 hardened steel) the poop looks great and like it always has…so that might have helped a little but i have tried 4 diff pla pla+ and silk and while i get a layer line now…nothing else sticks
tried several tests including the layer test on the sd and two i downloaded from make world
Since you’re now getting a layer line down, it appears that the print bed is now higher than it was previously. Since this is the case, can you humor me on doing another full calibration?
Also can you move to the Cool Plate for PLA and use glue just to check if the print head is now at the correct height (adhesion on the PEI plate will be a separate thing for now)
Thanks for the reply and i will do that shortly and respond back
(And i have done 2 full recalibrations in the last 90 minutes)
interesting that if i slow it down to half speed the print cleans up a bit
i am taking snips off the rolls in my AMS unit to run these…so they are all reasonably dry and working on the other P1P- i will switch over to the cool plate and regular speed shortly
Based on these pictures, it looks like the print head is moving away from the print bed. For the white square that you’re printing, portions of the print is solid but as it gets further from the corner, it looks like the layers are not adhering to each other. This reminds me of what happened to me and having to manually Zero my bed on a non-bed leveling printer. Your print bed may not be perfectly square / perpendicular to the actual Z-axis of the printer.
When you’re done with your print, can you bring your bed all the way down? If the bed is slightly crooked, this should allow the bed to fully align itself back to being square (as best as it can really). Then re-home the printer and try again.
I moved it as far and the Z would let me go down and then i tabbed over and selected the “Home” option to re calibrate the home position and now i am going through another whole full calibration after that is done i will try printing the filament stick test again and post pics
Again thank you for walking through this with me (but yeah it does look like for some reason different areas of the bed are not the same height)…but another strange thing is besides the upper right corner which is bad…it does way better when i slow it down
so
pic 1 cool plate-reg speed
pic 2 cool plate- silent
pic 3 text plate-reg speed
pic 4 text plate-silent (the very last pic)
While filaments are different the oldest is the red silk and then the green multi silk…the newest and the one i am using right now in the other p1p is the purple PLA and the white was from about a month ago…i store the snips and left overs in a baggie sealed in baggy with several desiccant packs -what is weird is the oldest looks the best on all tests - green(its probably 6 months or more older) … the purple is up there with crappy results but i am using is very successfully in the other printer
i am using system preset using the bambu basic pla and then also esun pla+…trying a benchy using bambu pla basic profile, setting fan speed for filament to 40%…using the purple pla…will show results when done
so- the print finished relatively successful but this was a print for a benchy off makerworld and was 40 min versus the one on the SD card which takes 20 (after it goes through all the calibration ■■■■)…the one on the SD card doesnt let you alter material (like cooling fan etc) it just prints a default benchy with default settings and that one sounds like cars crashing into each other and the fan at 100% cools it off way too quick…the one off makerworld shows standard print speed but acted like it was silent mode
It’s okay if you’re not using the Benchy off the internal memory. That Benchy was made for Speed > Quality to beat the benchmark and is more of a marketing tool… what really matters is that you were able to finish a print and it stuck pretty well.
It looked like it struggled a little bit when it was making the front part of the Benchy, as I see some defects but overall the Benchy looks good.
so adhesion away form the center is still a big issue…i am printing the filament stick test and seeing gaps and holes and smears on standard speed and dang if i slow it down to silent it starts to look a bit better…grrrr… i just want to be able to print my PLA without worrying…the pic is so obvious from where i go from standard speed to silent mode it is quality-but still doesnt look as good as it did or should
Do you have a micro-fiber cloth? Try cleaning your plates with dish soap and hot water, and dry it with a micro-fiber cloth or just laying paper towel over it. I know you say you buff the plates with a t-shirt, but just to rule things out, try with a cloth or paper towel.
Resetting would be your last resort so lets try everything first.
i have tried 4 diff plates they are clean of finger prints and dust and i even have one i keep for diff filament cause i have lightly sanded the surface at some point (it works but you have to flex it hard to get it to remove). i will wipe down again with the microfiber towel that i use on my screens…but the bizarre thing is if i print slow…its almost 100%…if i go back to standard it goes to shite… here is the finished test from that filament stick test…you can see on the bed exactly when i slowed it down…and when i turned it back to standard mode…LOL
