What brand? I have some overture that is making me rip my hair out. I would love to try the Bambu kind but it’s out of stock.
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The stuff that didn’t work for me on the P1P but did on the Ender was esun ePLA Matte. Whatever brand Bambu Lab is pushing as their matte is great - I’ve the white and black and they both work fantastic on heated bed.
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I have the P1P same too and is my first printer, because the filaments are out of stock in the BambuLab store EU. I use Sunlu meta pla without issues and with the AMS.
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I’ve noticed the Bambu Studio uses the ‘cool plate’ as default on the P1P
Switch it to the textured PEI build plate.
That fixed my adhesion problems
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Bed Adhedion on my P1P is awful to the point I barely use it. I’ve tried countless tricks
This totally solved my problem! The plate wasn’t heating enough because i had the Cool Plate selected for the Bed Type. Since it wasn’t hot enough the filament was cooling really fast and was bending, lifting itself up from the PEI Plate.
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How come the printer is sold with the Textured PEI Plate, and this is not the default option? Took me a couple of hours of frustration to find this answer here
I think the x1 comes with the cool plate and bambu studio is for both printers. It would be better if it defaulted to the textured plate if you select P1P.
I do find the P1P more sensitive to bed adhesion problems than the glass plate on my old anycubic printer.
I find that washing with soap and warm water (as instructed) makes a huge difference. Everytime I do that after any issues it fixes it. I have IPA as well which doesn’t seem as effective but ok.
It is also sensitve to bed temp (unlike my old textured glass plate which mainly needed the temp to help get the print off when it cooled!).
Last thing is that i also find I need to use brims for large flat objects to stop the corners curling up, which again I didn’t used to have to do.
Other than the adhesion, the P1P is worlds apart from my old anycubic in every respect!
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I made an account just to thank you for this response! I know its kinda novice but I did not notice that my bambu software said Cool plate and I have the PEI Textured - nothing would print right - i had a few good prints and then nothing would adhere no matter what kinda supports i added… changed that setting to the correct plate and boom!
Thank you !!
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I agree. Washing with dishsoap and warm water followed with IPA seems to make my prints stick better. I have BL cool plate with glue (OK), BL textured plate (OK) and 3D Hub PEI smooth which is awesome! It seems smooth PEI plate sticks much better than anything but I’m careful not to damage it. I started out with an Ender-3 clone and it seemed smooth PEI was the way to go as well. I use the textured plate profile with the smooth and have no issue. It does a particularly better job when small blobs of 1st layer are applied… (on BL cool plate and textured plate, the small prints on the first layer often come off or stick to nozzle, lifting and causing spaghetti failures)
I’m still a novice user. I have not had great success with support-W up to now. Will try different values for gap at interface and drying out filament. Hope this solves my challenges.
BTW, I have X1C
You just saved my sanity, thank you.
I can not get this thing to work properly to save my life. I have maybe 3 or 4 prints out of 15 tries. Keep losing bed adhesion. Textured plate selected even tried glue stick and bed weld. $800 for nothing but aggravation. I am looking to return it as I have not had it it a week yet.
Same here. Thank you Zilverdael!
I raised a ticket with the same issue. Really annoying. I have the p1s. Will keep you updated.
Never had an issue with adhesion on my P1P or in its current form of a converted P1S. If anything, I think it has too much adhesion. Using the P1S profile the bed temps are 10C lower than the P1P profile for the same bed, so make sure all of your settings are correctly chosen (bed type and printer profile). If the bed is set to Cool plate, it will have bad adhesion.
If you have modified any of the profiles, use the basic stock ones and try again.
As others have mentioned, clean the bed with soap and water. Fingerprints (hand oils) on the bed seem to the most common issue for bed adhesion.
As a final possibility, run the bed leveling for a few prints. I’d guess most of us stop running the bed leveling to save time, but each time you pull the magnetic plate off the base, the bed leveling that was saved will be incorrect. If it changes enough, you could be printing too shallow and getting poor adhesion from that.
So, in review do the following:
-Wash the plate and don’t touch it as much as possible.
-Use the default printer profile and the correct plate profile.
-Run the bed leveling often if you remove the plate from the base a lot.
for what it’s worth, I had the same issue of filament not sticking anymore, and this exact trick helped fixing it.
Wow, I think I would pass on using steel wool on the bed, but I think the basis of what it being done makes sense. CLEAN IT WELL. Could definitely have a production chemical still on it that is causing the issues. Maybe before scuffing the plate up, I’d try a sponge and IPA, or Windex on it and go to town (I can’t remember if Windex is on the Wiki as “don’t use”, so check first).
Just that cleaning it well didn’t work.
Stell wool in #0000 is used to polish musical instruments, I do think it’s safe to use it on the print bed without any scuffing 
thinking about it: I even know. Because it doesn’t scuff
That stuff is for cleaning glass so it should be fine, but still, I wouldn’t suggest it. I just know the person being told is going to go out and pick up some grade 2 or 3 wool.
… which is why we can only stress using 000 (which I used) or 0000 (which was initially recommended). Not sure of a 1+ grade would destroy the plate though.
In the end, it’s the same as expecting people to get 99% IPA instead of the 70% one, or proper PLA instead of generic one.
We can only try to help people with experience, but we also need them to listen properly, I think they will do fine