For i while i have been trying to print a battery case. Its a massive print that i actually have to split in 2 parts because it is to high to fit in the build volume. I have tried printing this in PETG as well as PLA.
No matter what i try, i cannot get this to print without warping . Since i need to put the two halves together the need to be absolutely straight edged.
With PLA i have tried the cold plate, and the PEI plate .
with PETG i have tried the pei plate and the engineering plate.
Its not an issue of the print not sticking to the bed. actually it stick so strong that the plate comes of the bed, the magnets cant hold it attached to the bed.
I have tried higher temps, lower temps, slowed print speed to less than half, less fan, no fan, door open, door closed, lid on , lid off, ( i have a full enclosure and aux fan and chamber fan)
All filament used has been dried in a dryer overnight before using.
All in all im getting pretty desperate here . Is this just the P1P or is my print unprintable ?
That’s gonna be a tough one to get perfectly flat. Just the nature of the print. Some tricks you can use to help mitigate the warping are below.
Lower overall infill
On the edges near the bottom use low infill. Warping is literally the plastic cooling at different rates. As it cools there is a shrinkage. Ideally, you want the the layer on the bed and just above the bed to cool at the same rate, but this is incredibly difficult. The bed layer will be at the bed temp, while a few mms higher the temps will be significantly lower as the print goes on. This difference causes the pulling up. So the fix is, use less plastic in the area that is guaranteed to cause problems. Using less plastic will effectively give you less pulling, hopefully allowing the plate and print to stay put.
Also some infills are angled in a way that improve warping too. Grid is a highly warping infill. However, infills with more angular layering will improve this problem. Basically, the idea is, the straight edge of grid allows the maximum force to be transferred to the bottom layers (for example, at every layer pulling up on every square mm of the edge of the print), but when you have an angular infill you can disperse those forces across a longer area.
i let it print overnight so its cooled the next morning when i take it off. but then the print is already warped . in extreme cases the build plate lets go of the bed because the print sticks so when that when it warps up, it pulls the plate with it.
yeah i was thinking maybe some experimnting with infill . i cant really lower the infill amount because it is a case that has a heave battery pack in it… it needs to offer some protecting against bumps and not crack.
bizar thing is that with the same filament on my cheap mingda magician X ( glas buildplate ) i can print a case that fills the entire bed and not have it warp. the petG sticks to the glass so well and since glass does not bend at all, i get perfectly straight prints. im actually considering putting a glass plate on my p1p as an experiment.
It doesn’t sound like adhesion is your problem, so a glass plate would help. I based that on your previous comment about the print pulling the plate off the magnets. As a cheaper and quicker band aid, try a clip or clamp to keep the plate from being pulled off the plate (like the original Ender 3).
That is exactly my first thought. That print looks exactly like some of my first prints on my P1P when I was printing up the enclosure. I wasn’t paying attention and on one of the plates, I somehow deactivated the brim and low and behold, the corner pulled up after the plate cooled exactly as shown in the photograph above.
Can you upload an image of the previewed sliced plate? Use CTRL-7 to get the oblique angle if you could. Then screnshot it and upload.
I feel like I am missing something here in the text because it sounds like you’ve done everything you should. I sense the solution still might be the orientation but a view of the pre-sliced file might provide a hint.
Also, do you monitor your internal chamber temperature with an external thermometer? I’d be real curious if your enclosure is providing enough thermal insulation. A photo of your rig and it’s enclosure would be helpful. I also wasn’t able to figure out from your description but are you getting identical results from both PETG and PLA?
sure. this is what it looks like in the slicer.
my enclosure is a modified bambu pixel enclosure. i have a glass door and glass top from a x1C in place. thermal insulation is non existant id say, as the back of a p1p is wide open. but i figured that with the door closed and the lid on it should at least prevent drafts. the printer is in my living room wich is 20 degrees C .
What a coincidence! I also printed a battery case and had the same problems. But with me the halves fit together enough to use it. And no, it’s not because of what you print, it’s because of the circumstances, the materials of the print bed plates, etc. I have exactly the same problems and can’t get a single large print on a straight flat surface with the X1C, they are all more or less warped,ie sagged. No matter what I have tried.
I have already given up on these flexible printing plates very quickly with other printers, because any material tension is stronger than the plates can withstand. It’s even worse here. The sheet metal of the engineering plate bulges even without printing on it, just by heat produced by a heating bed.
Based on your photos, you have almost the identical setup as I do. I didn’t see if there was mention of a chamber fan being turned off for the first couple of layers. That worked for me but you’ll have to experiment.
The setting I am referring to is the one found in the filament settings. For one of my prints, I had to disable cooling for the first 20 layers for PETG. I fully realize I was inviting elephant footing but that didn’t happen in my case and it did solve the problem of corners pulling up for that one print. Like yours, it was a print that was right up to the edge of the plate.
Also, did you try increasing the bed temp to 80C? Although that is extreme, it has been a trick I did use.
Also, does this only happen at one corner? It would be interesting to see if the problem repeats itself if you rotate the model 180 degrees. If the problem moves to the other corner, then it would rule out bed temp as the primary cause and then I might look at adding ribbing to the internal of the model that could be cut out after the print. This is sort of like creating an artificial “interior” support for a box.
Another thing you may want to look at if you don’t already have one, I use an internal temperature sensor with two probes. One interior and one exterior so that I can watch the rise in chamber temps over ambient room temperature. If you are let’s say, in a cool basement setting, your chamber temp may be just at the threshold of not maintaining internal temperature just because of a cool room temperature. This too might contribute to this problem. I got the thermometers precisely because of layer lifting off the plate. Ultimately for ABS I had to insulate the outside skins of my P1 in order to maintain an internal temp of 40C.
Definitely a challenging print. I was thinking you might be able to manage this problem by printing at a very low bed temp. Since you have adhesion to spare, try printing a 10mm test cube and find the lowest temp it will stay stuck with. I’m guessing that would be a bed temp of 45C or 50C. What that will do is, lessen the overall shrinkage by starting at a more stable average temp.
Ideally, you would heat the chamber to 70C and keep a 70C bed temp, and that way nothing shrinks until everything is done. But this isn’t an option. So, by starting with the lowest adhering bed temp, you will start much closer to the normal chamber temp of the printer, say 35-40C at those low bed temps. If you can find a low bed temp that works, you could end up with a bed temp of 45C and a chamber temp of 35C and only a difference of 10C. That should mean a substantially lower differential in the cooling rates of the layers, and thus the amount of warping. As of now, the base settings yields a differential likely in the range of 70C (bed) and 50C (chamber), and that’s if your chamber is holding a good deal of heat or the printer isn’t in a cold room as Olias mentioned above.
Brilliant!!! Great idea. We get so caught up in stiction to the plate via heat, where does it say you can’t go in the other direction? I mean think about it, it wasn’t that long ago where heated plates were more the exception than the rule.
I still find myself sometimes breaking out the Aquanet and trying it the old fashioned way but truth is, I never thought of turning down the plate heater.
I am confident that Bambulab will bring out a glass plate after all. Creality did later on as well. These problems with flexible printing plates have always been there and they dissolve into almost nothing when printing on glass. On glass you can easily observe that more heat improves adhesion. And you still don’t have to have elephant feet. To be honest, I had left these problems behind me for a long time. Now, with an X1C, I’m starting to struggle with it all over again. It’s just wasted time to have to deal with it! I’m sure there are mini printers where you can use the entire printing plate without hesitation. So why should you have to quarter the print parts on a larger printer to keep them warp-free or do other acrobatics?
yeah its what i tried with my coldplate. its set to 35C and it sticks really really well. when i slow the print down by setting the flow from the default 21m3 to 6m3 (!!) it prints almost warp free.
I guess with printer with unheated chamber that is as close as i am going to get .