For those who upgraded their P1P to P1S using the kit, I was wondering what is the difference in overall noise? Does the enclosure help muffle the parts / aux fan noises?
I understand that the P1S comes needs extra fans for the chamber and MCU but since I mostly print PLA using the cool plate I was hoping I can turn these down.
I have the printer next to my computer and I was wondering if the P1S enclosure helps at all? I am using the anti-vibration feet so at least the table doesn’t shake too much. My solution so far has been to use noise cancelling headphones when it bothers me too much.
It makes all the difference in the world. When I upgraded my P1P with the glass door from the X1(Not officially supported by bambu at the time) that alone made the difference between people being able to hear the printer while I was on the phone versus not hearing it. My printer is 1 meter away from me. It should also be noted that I have the pegboard enclosure which is not completely sealed and just having that small amount of plastic even with holes, does a great deal to deaden noise. I would imagine that anyone using the solid sides would enjoy even more noise suppression.
One tip for anyone wanting to do high temp ABS or other filaments that like it hot. If you purchase any plates whether it be from Bambu or third parties, they all come in bubble wrap plastic envelopes. DON’T through those away. They are the perfect dimensions to temporarily adhere to the sides of the printer and provide amazing thermal insulation. I used magnets to secure them during an ABS print and it allowed the temperature to be maintained between 10-15c above not using it.
wait what; Envelopes as thermal insulation? Got any videos / photos? I gotta see this haha. I got a box of pretty expensive 2mm thermal / acoustic insulation that I could still return so definitely interested.
Alternatively, you could purchase them from Amazon but I have not found any that match the size of the one’s used to ship plates, so I have held onto them for that reason.
I actually started out with the acoustic/thermal attic insulation. I’ve used rolls of insulation cut to size that are bubble wrap and reflective coating. This not only provides conductive insulation but also radiant insulation as well. But seriously, it’s way overkill. The bubble wrap envelopes are more than enough
Since this is only a temporary option when I print ABS, you need very strong magnets for this to work. I used these and printed knurled knobs for them. Then I also placed mating 5mm bar magnets on the inside of my printed case to grab onto. Don’t bother with anything less, I tried 3mm and they simply don’t work. The interior bar magnets are probably overkill if one has sheet metal sides but my enclosure is PLA printed.
@Olias Oh wow…that’s actually a great idea. I personally like the look of my P1P with the pegboard sides and I haven’t come across a use case where I need to print high temp filaments, so the temporary “buble wrap” solution would be ideal for occasions that I might need to print ABS in the future.
I might still end up getting the P1S anyways just for the noise reduction alone.
Thank you everyone for your input. It’s been very helpful!
I upgraded my P1P with a printed enclosure and the glass door and top initially with no additional fans and that was the quietist setup. After upgrading to the P1S kit, the additional fans definitely make it noticeably louder. However, you can turn down the chamber fan in the slicer at any time, and that helps tremendously (50% and lower). I do think the Bambu covers are very good for insulating the noise, but the new chamber fan does make a good amount of noise.
That said, it’s not terrible, but it is louder (if I were to guess 4-5 db). I used to turn the chamber fan down for every print but now, I don’t worry about it.
If you are printing only PLA then the upgrade to P1S will just give you hassle that you dont need. and make PLA printing much louder.
First you have to install it. And that is a PIA. Especially when there is much information missing from the YouTube guide and there are really annoying things like screws already in the frame when putting panels on. The heat sink for the controller board is the wrong orientation. The chamber fan duct print is not optimized. Many other things.
Second. If you are printing in PLA the whole experience gets A LOT LOUDER. You have to print with with the top off and door open or you will have all sorts of issues with your prints. So you still have the original noise. Except this is now amplified like a drum by the thin plastic side panels. On top of this you have the cable chain hitting the side making extra clicks, and most annoying of all you have THREE EXTRA FANS going most of the time THAT YOU DIDNT HAVE OR NEED BEFORE. The Chamber FAN (that vents through the charcoal block) is really loud.
So if you are printing only PLA then then whole P1S thing is pointless, noisy, cumbersome.
And there are other things. like
Now you cant see your print properly.
Its going to be harder to maintain.
If you are printing only PLA I would not recommend the upgrade what so ever.
Thanks for sharing your experience, really good to hear another perspective!
I mostly print in PLA and sometimes PETG on my P1P.
Question: Do you use the cool plate with your P1S for PLA? I was wondering if the cool plate is used…then door/top still need to be open?
I almost always use the cool plate for PLA with my P1P these days just because there is no need to wait for the build plate to warm up and I get better adhesion compared to textured (with some glue stick applied once in a while).
never thought of printing pla with a cool plate. I’ve alkways thought you need a hot bed. But if I could print cool with the top and doors closed and the fan reduced , yes that would be a whole lot quoter than naked p1p. I print a lot of very tall narrow objects. One tiny wabble and its spaghetti hell. Cold plate with glue would have to be rock solid. hmm looks like I will be purchasing the cool plate and do some experiments. Cheers
Yeah I was of the same mentality until I got the “Engineering plate” for PETG and it happened to have a PLA cool plate on the flip side. I was surprised how well PLA sticks to it (it only heats to to 30C). Ever since I started using cool plate (+ applying stock bambu glue once in a while) I haven’t had a single PLA adhesion issue even on very difficult prints. I would even say that my print stick a little too well but nothing challenging to get off.
Mine is only a little louder with PLA (when using the stock fans), TPU on the other hand… is insanely loud with the chamber fan running at 100%. The 80% that PLA is set to print at, isn’t bad, just noticeably more.
The good thing about TPU and the loud fan is, I never get clogs anymore. I always print closed up (PLA too). If I start getting clogs then I open the front door, but with the chamber fan whirling away it hasn’t been needed.
Never bought a cool plate, just have the textured plate and the high temp/engineering plate combo. All three surfaces are good and tend to print hot, but with the enclosure fans I haven’t had issues with the temps. ABS and ASA are a treat to print with now. Almost no smell.