I have exactly the same noise/problem. It would be nice if someone knew what you can do about it. Since it wasn’t there from day one, I suspect that you can get rid of it again 
Sorry! My post was accepted a few days later
This is the noise coming from belt tensioners and idlers.
Refer to this guide. First, get a can of compressed air, then blast under and above belt positions on the idler bearing.
The reason for those noise sounds is that the belt residue gets clogged in the bearing and starts to make that noise. Then add some good quality lubrication.
If after all those procedures the noise does not go away, then reach out to support and ask them to send belt tensioner pulleys replacement.
@VitaliiGoi @derDoc @Peppy_1609
EDIT:
Don’t forget to re-run all calibrations after the procedure. And stay on top of it. BL is quite liberal with those maintenance recommendations. From my experience, you need to do it at least once in 150-200 hours.
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See my post above, your issue is identical and can be mitigated.
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I did everything possible. I cleaned it, lubricated it, calibrated it, but the noise didn’t go away.
I created a ticket EU_US240305424002 and it just disappeared. What kind of support is that?
In my case I contacted Bambulab and got a new Shroud Assembly and the still remaining sound I was able to fix by adjusting the belt tension.
Therefore I used this little helper Timing Belt tensioning tool for maintenance by VroDoPrints - MakerWorld
After both steps, new Shroud and adjust belt tension the sound were gone.
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Now I find this topic… Several days ago I write about the same problem, but my machine is brand new. For ‘my eye’ this sound comes from nozzle- when they hit to material, mostly at infil stage. I see also that infill wall’s in many place have small and many broken point- exactly like colission with some head parts (nothing else like nozzle). Some man suggest me that will be better If I change infil sparse to gyroid and in fact is better.
Maybe nozzle is really to close to material at G00 comand.
Edit: This is a reply relating to Z axis grinding sounds when moving the bed down.
Over the period of three weeks, I too found a bunch of problems with my brand new printer. Being new to printing, it wasn’t easy. Long story short, short of disassembling the entire thing, I redid a lot of mechanical assembly. In regards to this particular problem, this was the solution that fixed it for me.
Remove any debris on the bottom of the printer and around the linear x axis rods (vacuum cleaner does a quick job of that)
Lower the heatbed to it’s lowest position possible.
Turn off the printer
Screw the bed into the chassis the same way it was screwed down when you unpacked it. Make it tight, but not too tight. The points is to make sure that the entire bed is contacting the bottom. Same as in step 3 of operation 2 in the wiki page here: Solutions for Z-axis screw rods looseness and Z sliders misalignment | Bambu Lab Wiki
Loosen all the lead screw nuts as much as possible- each has four screws in it, but not so much that they come out of the thread. You will probably have to remove the rear panel in order to access the rear nut. Replace the Rear Metal Panel - P1 Series | Bambu Lab Wiki
Flip it upside down with the front towards you. Be careful with the LCD screen as it sticks out above the top and will break if you place the entire printer on a flat surface. Either remove the screen or place it over the edge of a table.
Loosen the x axis belt by loosening the tension pulley screw and spring and removing the belt from the pulleys.
Open the front door (if you have a P1S). Grab the appropriate hex key in one hand. With the other you’re going to turn one of the large lead screw pulleys counter clockwise. Apply and maintain a little bit of force, just enough to see the lead screw nut move into the uppermost portion of the heatbed, flush with it’s casing. If you apply too much force you may begin to see the plastic warp. Whilst keeping it in place, screw down the 4 screws that hold that nut in place. Repeat this step with all 3 pulleys.
This may also be a good time to apply some machine oil to the tension pulley before placing the belt back. Make sure to keep the pulley surface and belt clean of oil.
Reapply the belt, the tension spring and screw down the tension screw. When reapplying the belt, avoid torquing the pulleys by tightly dragging the belt from pulley to pulley. Just shimmy the belt in place and when retensioning make sure that tension remains equal between pulleys.
Flip it back over and remove the 3 screws holding down the heatbed
And you’re done. Basically, what my issue seemed to be is that one or more of the nuts was either tilted on the x axis or far enough away from being level with the others that it had more resistance on it, thus making that grinding sound. At least, I suspect it was something along those lines. I had already tried lubricating the pulley and retensioning the x axis belt prior to this with no positive result. Either way, it was definitely something with the nuts being improperly positioned. After doing this to my printer, this noise was completely gone.
I hope this helps someone.
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Thanks for the link and description. I did everything, the sound did not disappear. I am a bit disappointed with the printer and the support, the request has been resumed, but I have not received an answer until now
I assume you are referring to my post. If so, I am surprised. If it truly is the Z axis noise when moving the bed down, it should have fixed it or at the very least improved it. If you haven’t already, take kitchen paper towels and properly clean all the lead screws. Remove all of the grease, move the bed up and down as needed during the process. Personally I move the bed to the top, press the towel in between the thread just below the bed and move the entire thing as far down as I can while holding the towel in place, the screw motion will guide the paper downwards. I do the same in reverse and clean up bits I couldn’t get to manually. Wrapping the towel around the lead screw is difficult and not as effective. Once that is done, apply new grease by dotting tiny portions over the entire length of the screw. Move the bed up and down afterwards a few times. Remove the squeezed out lubricant from above and below the bed, around the lead screw nuts. Also around the screw bearings, top and bottom. If done properly, there will be little to no excess lubricant. One of my theories was that sound came from grease accumulations as the bed moved. Obviously I found it weird that it only happened as the bed moved down, that’s what lead me to realign the lead screw nuts. I figured that perhaps a certain misalignment caused it to only occur when moving down, after that it went away.
Short of this, I am unsure what could be causing this at the moment. If you’ve oiled the x axis tension pulley, I can only suggest you try applying a bit of grease to the top of the x axis belt. Perhaps the sound is coming from the belt rubbing on the tension pulley (I found that the belt permanently tracks at the top of the pulley, so I added a shim below the pulley assembly to tilt it enough to where that doesn’t happen anymore, but that’s a whole other procedure). However, to the best of my knowledge, that’s a more high pitched sound than the bed grinding noise.
Either way, I hope it gets resolved.
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Today I did everything that was previously mentioned, cleaned, lubricated, adjusted, calibrated, the result is negative, the sound has not disappeared. Tomorrow I will try again to do the same, thank you for your support and for taking the time to solve my problem, compared to Bamba support (
I also noticed a few days ago that another unpleasant sound appeared, something metal rattling
I’m sorry to hear you’re having such a hard time with support. I haven’t had to contact them yet, and from what you and others have said, it sounds a little painful.
In regards to the metallic rattling sound, I’ve heard this on my own printer as well. I can’t remember when and I never tracked down the cause. I believe it may have appeared after a belt tensioning procedure and I heard it during a test print. I redid the belt tension afterwards, with printed tensioners and set a specific tension that I measured with calipers, so far I haven’t heard it anymore. I’m not sure if it was this or not.
I sympathize with you. I can imagine for veterans in this space, this is all very normal and they have the expertise to diagnose and fix most of these issues. For newcomers, such as myself and I imagine you as well - which comprises a large part of bambu’s consumers base and to whom they advertise as a ready to go out-of-the-box experience - it is frustrating and it begins to feel like a cheap, even wasteful purchase. At least it did for me for a while. So far, I’ve managed to fix most of my issues and the only thing left is outer wall quality, which I’ve lately made satisfying progress on through slicer settings (and a lot of mechanical adjustments to the printer itself). I was very close to asking for a refund at one point. I’m now at the stage where I’m feeling the closed firmware issue a lot more. Really wishing bed leveling feedback existed on the p1s, maybe PID tuning for a heater upgrade and access to stepper motor for a possible upgrade there.
Again, I wish I could help more. I wish you all the best and I do hope support improves, they owe it to their customers because they largely enabled and actively advertise to newbies. The wiki they made can’t do it all.
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Hey there, was having a similar grinding noise, what worked for me was moving the head in all directions while spraying compressed air on the marked pulleys. I think it was a little piece of debris causing the sound. Sound is completely gone in my case. Hope this helps.
When the noise came do you had this kind of issus ? (horizontal lines)
I have a similar issue so this doesnt effect the print quality?
I have VFA, but it’s from other sources. No horizontal lines (I presume you mean over or under extruded). I did a specific z axis test and couldn’t find any repeating pattern doing a 2 wall prism. I do get another z axis pattern on solid, thick and long walls with sharp corners, and I have it down to being either heatbed warping, filament or maybe extruder gear wobble. I did manage to spot a problem that seemed filament related, I could see what appears to be the variation in filament diameter showing on long wall extrusions. Anyways, the answer is no.
On the letf these are the lines I talk about. It’ happens at the same time the sound starts.
No problem if you don’t know or do not faced this particular issu, just asking.
That looks rough. That can be multiple issues. But as you are using the same material as your brother (you did properly dry it first?) and I’m assuming the machine is properly maintained, clean rods, properly lubed, etc. I’d say start with the slicer. Check if these patterns match layer time / speed. I can print two identical objects, one with terrible zits, irregular corners, inconsistent layers by changing speed and temp settings alone. Eliminate the slicer first, before going into mechanical. That’s all I can say for now. I hope you get it fixed. Good luck.