I have been experiencing considerable PLA warping when printing with the P2S. The following examples are printed with Bambu Lab PLA Beige but then happen with any Bambu Lab PLA. Note the surface curvature. The first one is the Kingler poke ball from N3D and the second one is a box organiser I designed.
The poke ball is printed as provided by the designer. You can see the two halves do not align. I do not have this problem printing with the A1.
My own designed box is printed with 5mm brims and a 0mm object to brim gap. I also increased the flow ratio for the first layer to 1.05 to make sure the brim sticks to the edges.
For both I am using the cool plate super tack with stock settings. Both are printed in the enclosed P2S, with -5% cooling (-5% on all fan percentages). I think this may be related to the P2S airflow system. Can you help me improve these prints? Adding larger brims won’t solve the problem.
For the little section that lifts a lot I would try those “disks” from bambu instead of brim. Brim helps but for convenience is not attached by the slicer
This printable addon for P2S is supposedly helping to mitigate warping issues with PLA.
Although I installed it, I cannot comment about its effectiveness since I didn’t print enough in PLA yet. However, many people report it is effective. Also logic behind it makes sense to me. Good news is that when it is installed, only PLA printing will be affected since the printer switches to cooling mode with this material only and uses the top vent for airflow. When printing any other material (heating mode, including PETG), the lover went is used for the airflow.
For the H2D it’s simply too much blowing cold basement air into the printer’s chamber that’s causing all different kinds of issues for me, even PLA.
I’m trying to keep my chamber temperature for PLA at around 25 - 30 °C which is not exactly easy since the H2D completely ignores target chamber temperatures if these are below 40 °C and simply blows cold environment air into the printer’s chamber at a fixed rate, ignoring the current chamber temperature.
Not sure if that’s the same issue with P2S.
For H2D you’ll find posts regarding this (too cold chamber temperature) from other users, too.
I’ve had warping issues on larger pieces. These have been cured by taking the top cover off, leaving the front door open and using 3DLAC on the bed. It’s possible that only one of these two solutions is needed (I haven’t tried to isolate which yet) but that’s what works for me. NB I previously tried increasing the bed temp and reducing the part cooling fan speed but this gave no improvement. I leave them as they were intended with my solution.
I know Bambu have advised under no circumstances leave the door open but I have a non-Bambu printer that isn’t in an enclosure and doesn’t warp at all, nor does it need 3DLAC. I think the cooling fan and chamber temperatures are affecting your print. I live in the UK and it’s winter at the moment. This may have contributed to my warping as opposed to people who live in warmer climes where the ambient room conditions are naturally different.
I’m only a novice so apologies if others think this is bad advice. I can only say what I do to successfully get around my warping issue.
Hi, I had a similar problem. I found out that the first layer speed and infill was to high in the model settings. I set it to 15 and it seems to have worked. If you don’t know how to do this follow this. Open Bambu Studio
On the left-hand panel, click Process and make sure you’re in Advanced mode not Basic
Where you see Quality, Strength Speed, Support and Others click on Speed
Expand First Layer and
You’ll see:
Initial layer speed. I set this to 15
First layer infill speed I left alone
I hope this works for you, but it is worth a try. Let us know.
To the replies, I eventually fixed this issue by printing and installing an airflow deflector. I also manually model thicker brims on tall prints instead of using automatic brims.
I also live in the UK and print in winter but my A1, which is not enclosed, shows no warping.
